Capricornia Cuisine:
Bush Tucker in Central Queensland

Lenore Lindsay

Our knowledge of the food plants of the Aborigines is sketchy, relying, as it does, mainly on early European accounts, and the oral traditions of the community as a whole, which includes Aboriginal, Islander and pioneer sources. Although some use of wild foods and medicines was maintained by the local Aboriginal people, much of the information relating to those from plants has been lost, as they were replaced by other items of overseas origin. Our sources include accounts from the Archer family's papers and oral histories, the explorer Leichhardt's journals, and the little booklet "Notes on some of the Roots, Tubers, Bulbs and Fruits, used as Vegetable Food by the Aboriginals of Northern Queensland, Australia" by French botanist Anthelme Thozet.

The establishment of the Dreamtime Cultural Centre and its surrounding gardens on Rockhampton's northern outskirts has continued to fuel the renaissance of interest in our wild food plants.

Plant foods are generally available only seasonally, and the season for some is very limited. availability is also governed by habitat, some ecosystems being richer, or offering more variety, than others. From the beaches to the dry interior, each niche has its own particular food products, and in this paper just a few typical examples from each are mentioned.

The Seashore

The pandanus (Pandanus sp.) has other uses besides fixing the foredunes. The fruit segments may be roasted and the flesh sucked from the base, then split with a tomahawk or similar implement to extract the small oily seeds. The whitish leaf bases may be cooked as a vegetable, and the leaves themselves used for weaving and thatching. The leaves of octopus bush (Argusia argentea) and pisonia (Pisonia grandis), common on the offshore islands, may be eaten as either a salad green or a cooked vegetable. One of the chef's specialities at the Heron Island Resort is Pisonia Pie. The New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) became so popular in 19th century English gardens that it was also known as Botany Bay greens. It is now marketed commercially under the more up-market title of WarrigaI Greens.

Where mud replaces sand, mangroves replace pandanus and octopus bush. Aborigines ate the "seeds" of the grey mangrove (Avicennia marina) after lengthy preparation. Boiled in several changes of water they taste rather like bitter olives.

Wetlands

Paperbarks (Melaleuca spp.) commonly grow round the edges of fresh water swamps. The papery bark may be removed in sheets, and has a myriad of uses, including preparing and wrapping food for baking. The flowers secrete copious quantities of nectar, which may be sucked directly, or extracted by soaking the blossoms in water to make a sweet drink.

Woodland and Forest

Burdekin plum, Pleiogynium timorense, is one of many Australian plants with edible fruits. Select the thumbnail image or plant name for a higher resolution image (20k).
Photo: Eric Anderson.

Other fruits which may be eaten raw include those of the blue flax lily (Dianella caerulea), blue-tongue (Melastoma affine), raspberries (Rubus spp.), fruit salad vine (Melodorum leichhardtii), native mulberry (Pipturis argenteus), and the tiny aromatic fruits of maiden's blush (Euroschinus falcata). Cocky apples (PIanchonia careya) are better roasted. Along the creeks and rivers, the tall Leichhardt tree (Nauclea orientaIis) is conspicuous and, in season, is hung with grey fleshy fruits like decomposing golf balls with a rather bitter taste. The sticky pulp round the seeds of nipan or splitjack (Capparis lasiantha) is pleasant eating. The broad-leaved native cherry (Exocarpus latifolius) is not a fruit at all, botanically speaking, but a swollen stem which is delicious when fully ripe and beginning to wrinkle like a sultana.

Native ginger (Alpinia caerulea) not only bears edible fruits, but the young rhizomes may also be eaten, and taste faintly of ginger. Other edible roots are the long or pencil yam (Dioscorea transversa) which can be eaten raw or cooked, and the rhizomes of bracken fern (Pteridium esculentum). The boiled shoots, called croziers or fiddles, are emergency foods, but should not be eaten in quantity due to the toxins they contain.

Young roots of candelabra or strap water (Acacia holosericea) are reported to have been cooked for food by the Aborigines, and the seeds were milled and made into damper. The bottle tree (Brachychiton australe) also has edible roots and seeds.

The large, matt black seeds of the peanut tree (Sterculia quadrifida) are delicious, the kernel tasting like a cross between a macadamia nut and a peanut.

The heart of Livistona decipiens can be eaten as palm cabbage, and the young shoots of scrambling lily (Geitonoplesium cymosum) like asparagus. The bases of mat rush leaves (Lomandra longifolia) taste like green peas, and the sour buds and leaves of Hibiscus heterophyllus have earned it the common names of native rosella and native sorrel. The flower petals and roots can also be eaten, the tough fibres made string, and mucilaginous decoctions treated colds and sore throats internally, and skin problems externally.

Dryland

Prickly plants produce wild currants (Carissa ovata) and desert limes (Eremocitrus glauca), and winter apples (or dibble-dibbles or amulla - Myoporum debile) may be found sprawling through the sparse grasses, or colonising disturbed land.

The fruit of the desert lime, Eremocitrus glauca, may be small (10-20mm) compared to the commercial lime but it is packed with flavour. Select the thumbnail image or plant name for a higher resolution image (32k).
Photo: Eric Anderson.




Pigweed, Portulaca olearacea, is an innocuous looking plant but it is one of the most valuable of bush foods. Select the thumbnail image or plant name for a higher resolution image (46k).
Photo: Eric Anderson.

The seeds of native millet (Panicum decompositum) were a staple of the Aborigines of the interior, who ate them milled and baked into damper. Pigweed (Portulaca oleracea) not only provided tiny, oily, nutritious seeds, but a green vegetable, whose anti-scorbutic qualities were valued by the people of the west well into the 1950s. Early explorers also appreciated this property in the leaves of the ruby or barrier saltbush (EnchyIaena tomentosa), though it's the succulent sweet red fruits of this shrub which are eagerly sought.

Many of the flowers of the more arid lands produce copious nectar, and the various species of grasstree (Xanthorrhoea) are no exception. The flower stem also provided the Aborigines with spearshafts and firesticks.

No account of the food plants of the drier parts of Australia would be complete without mentioning the ubiquitous prickly pear (Opuntia stricta), whose succulent purple/red fruits make such delicious jams, jellies and wines. Though not a native of this country, it has been naturalised for many years, as has the Chinee apple or jujube (Zizyphus mauritania) whose small oval fruits may be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried like dates.

Indigenous Australian foods have always been integrated to some extent in Australian food culture. It is certainly true that in Colonial times, those settlers who learned about local foods from the Aborigines and used them or who experimented for themselves, fared much better than those who did not However, as time progressed and supplies of exotic foodstuffs became more accessible, this knowledge was ignored. As transport links developed, even country cooks abandoned the use of wild foods which could not compete with those of overseas origin in terms of harvestable quantities and culinary attention. In the cities they became increasingly difficult to find, until the renewed interest in growing Australian plants blossomed in the 60s.

Perhaps this decade will see a re-integration of indigenous plant foods into a contemporary Australian cuisine and from the myriad plants available, at least a few commercial crops developed to join the hitherto solitary Australian contribution to world foods - the macadamia nut.

Bibliography

1. Anderson, E. (1993). Plants of central Queensland. Brisbane; Queensland Department of Primary Industries.
2. Australian Food Plants Study Group. Newsletters: 1-26.
3. Cherikoff, V. and Isaacs, J. (1989). The bushfood handbook. Sydney; Ti Tree Press.
4. Cribb, A.B. and Cribb, J.W. (1985). Plant life of the Great Barrier Reef and adjacent shores. St Lucia; University of Queensland Press.
5. Cribb, A.B. and Cribb, J.W. (1974). Wild food in Australia. Sydney; Collins.
6. Earl, J. (1996). A fatal recipe for Burke and Wills. Australian Geographic; 43: 28-29.
7. Isaacs, J. (1987). Bushfood. Sydney; Landsdowne.
8. Leiper, G. (1984). Mutooroo. Brisbane; Eagleby South State School.
9. Low, T. (1989). Bush tucker: Australia's wildfood harvest. Sydney; Angus and Robertson.
10. Low, T. (1991). WiIdfood plants of Australia. Sydney; Collins Angus and Robertson.
11. Sked, J. ed. (1985). Go native: wild food cookbook. Pine Rivers Society for Growing Australian Plants.
12. Thozet, A. (1886). Notes on some of the roots, tubers, bulbs and fruits, used as vegetable food by the Aboriginals of Northern Queensland, Australia. Rockhampton; W.H. Buzacott.

From Bush to Table

Australian Plants online - March 1997
The Society for Growing Australian Plants