'Australian Plants' Vol.2 No.15 June 1963

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PUBLISHED BY THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS IN 8,000 COPIES

udtraiion

Registered at G.P.O., Sydney, for transmission JUNE, 1963 Vol 2, No. 15
bv post as a periodical. Volume 2 will comprise issuves, No. 13-20.

Colour Photography by Frank Hurley Block by courtesy John Sands Ltd.

THE COOKTOWN ORCHID

Dendrobium bigibbum Lindl.—the Floral Emblem of Queensland



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Page 74—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—QUEENSLAND FLORA June, 1963

QUEENSLAND WILDFLOWERS

The wildflowers oi Queensland are unique, spectacular, beautiful and
ideal garden subjects. We have heard these phrases used for wildflowers
of other states but rarely for Queensland. Why? Because we know so little
about them! Because they do not occur in widespread areas or spectacular
vistas! Because they are becoming extinct. Because the people of Queensland
are indifferent to them! Because the Government of the State is indifferent to
their national heritage being so pre-ocupied in making a thin budget stretcii
over the many urgent projects crying out to be done in such a vast under-
developed State!l Alas! All these tragedies are to a degree true.

Where are the Queenslanders sensitive to the natural beauty of their
State? Every resident of our northern State who answers this cry, regardless of
circumstances or experience can assist in a significant way. This issue contains
articles from Queenslanders who do care and are doing their best but need
assistance. The short article “Eucalypts In Queensland” follows the last issue
of “Australian Plants” which dealt with the beauties of the dwarf coloured
flowering eucalypts of West and South Australia. Very few people know
that Queensland has trees that will rival these but we cannot even get seed
to grow them. We need seed of such species as E. miniata, E. phoenicea,
E. setosa and the beautiful crimson flowered E. ptychocarpa

AN AWAKENING! BUT WILL THE POLITICIANS RALLY

“An arboretum covering an area of at least 50 acres, shaded by gracious
treec and brighi with wildfiowers; nourished by a generous natural water
supply, and attended by a full-time resident ranger who would protect ihe
native fauna that enjoy security there . . .” This is the objective of the
Toowoomba Field Naturalisi Club. One member with considerable experience
and ability has offered the gift of 20 acres of land near Oakey. Firm and
practical plans have been placed before the Government of Queensland
through the Minister for Lands for such an arboretum. | have personally
met the committee members appointed to prepare these plans and negotiate
with the Minister and | am convinced not only of their competence and
enthusiasm but also of their sound practical ability and tenacity and if the
Government of Queensland should pass this opportunity, it is never likely again
to get the same opportunity to prescrve its native heritage, the Flora of

Queensland.
Sce Editor's Notes thrcughsut the issue.

COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHERS

Where are the colour photographers in Queensland? We need good
coloui slides of all Queensland wildflowers. Issue No. 12 gives details of
cui photographic cection and of a photographic competition.

WILDFLOWER SHOWS

There are many beautiful wildflower shows throughout Australia. If the
organisers of shows that will be predominately for wildflowers will advise the
cditor before August of the date and details of their shows, they will be
publicised free of charge in the September issue.

Organisers please note. This society is devoted to the preservation of
wildflowers and their cultivation in home gardens. Any flowers you request
from us must come from members’ gardens which will also have to supply
flowers for the show by their own local society. Requests for flowers other
than for the main shows are often an embarrassmeni.



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June, 1963 o ] AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE ~ Page 75-Vol. 2
How To Grow

THE COOKTOWN ORCHID

By Dr. H. E. YOUNG—Quecensland Orchid Society

With the adoption of the plant as Queensland’s floral emblem, many
people unfamiliar with the growing of the plani will be wondering how to
handle ii end a suggested course of action which could be followed by those
in doubt is provided below. The Cooktown Orchid is an epiphyte, i.e.,
it is adapted to growing on trees or rocks but not in the soil. If put in the
latter it will not grow satisfactorily or for very long. Similarly a medium
consisting of a close textured compost such as leaf mould is unsatisfactory.
The plant needs very good drainage and aeration around the roots so that
the root system is not kept in a continuously sodden state.

A satisfactory medium is provided by growing the plants on the bark
of a suitable tree as is the case in the wild state. Trees with deciduous bark,
such as gum trees are unsatisfactory because when the tree sheds its bark
it is also likely to shed the orchid. Trees with persistent bark such as the
frangipanni, citrus, umbrella tree, wheel of fire, croton, etc., are suitable
if situated in a suitable position.

Having obtained a Cooktown Orchid in one of its various varieties it
should be tied on a branch or the trunk with twine, wire (preferably copper)
or plastic string or sirip so that the root and base of the plant are held
firmly on to the bark. The plant should preferably be fixed on the east or
north side of the tree if on the trunk and similarly on a branch except that
it may be fixed to the top of a lateral branch. It is wise also to study the
position of the plant with a view to assuring that it is placed so that rain
water running down the tree will flow over the roots of the plant instead
of putting it in a place which is habitually dry.

In starting the plant off it is an advantage to cover the roofs with a
thin sheet of elkhorn fibre or a single thickness of hessian or plastic sheet
which may be tied on when attaching the plant. This helps to ensure that
the roots, which in moving the plant have been deprived of intimate contact
with the bark, are kept reasonably moist until new growth develops and
the plant can fend for itself.

POT OR BASKET CULTURE

If the plant is required to grow in a window box, under the front steps
or in a bushhouse, so that it may be moved about, it is best to establish it
in a pot or wooden basket. Incidentally, betier growth is usually obtained
by this method as the plants are more easily manured and they can be
moved about to find the best growing situations.

The plants should never be overpotted, ie,, a small pot or basket
consistent with the size of the plant gives best results. An ordinary flower pot
of the four-inch size accommodates the usual size of plant quite well.

The pot should be filled a quarter to a third of its capacity with broken
crocks (pieces of broken flower pot, pieces of broken brick, pumice stone
from the beach or charcoal). The pieces used should be about half to three-
quarters of an inch in diameter.

On top of this a thin layer of coarse elkhorn or other suitable fibre
such as tree fern roots, or osmunda fibre should be placed. This fibre should
be washed and teased or chopped into small pieces about one to one and a
half inches long. The plant is then introduced to the pot and held so that



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more fibre is then packed firmly but gently around the roots up to but not
covering the base of the plant.

The plant should be so placed that the leading shoot is towards the
centre of the pot with the back of the plant against the side of the container.
This ensures that there is room for continued forward growth of the plant.
Sometimes plants received from dealers have few roots. In this case it is
necessary to support the plant by tying it to a small wooden stake placed
in the pot which will keep the orchid upright until it forms a new root
system and is able to support itself. A bamboo butchers’ skewer forms a stake
of satisfactory size and pertormance.

It is a good idea to distribute some bone dust or broken bones in the
compost when potting. Other readily obtainable composts are often used
with equally good results. Such materials as she oak (Casuarina) bark, and
iron bark bark are used successfully. The dead outer bark is obtained from the
trees without injuring the tree. It is preferably chopped into a quarter to half-
inch pieces and packed in as in the case of other composts. Some growers
use only pummice stone collected from the beach and depend on manures
for feeding the plants.

WATERING

The Cooktown Orchid makes its new growth in summer and is dormant
during the winter months of June, July and August. It therefore requires
watering whilst new growth is being produced in the summer. A watering
should therefore be given every day during summer growth if possible and
if best results are to be achieved. If the compost remains moist, watering
need only be carried out when the compost tends to become dry. Plants
growing on trees of course, receive a certain amount of moisture and food
from the bark of the tree and does not require such frequent attention but
should be given a watering when hosing the garden and more frequently
when the atmosphere is very dry. It must be remembered that these plants
are natives of humid conditions.

Watering should preferably be carried out with a falling temperature,
i.e., in the afternoon, except in winter. For winter watering only enough
moisture should be given to prevent the plants from shrivelling. They are
not making growth at ihis stage and do not need the water. If kept too wet
while dormant the roots in the compost are iiable to decay and leaf drop to
occur.

MANURING

The plants respond very well in the growing season to the application of
organic and artificial manures. An occasional light dressing of dried blood,
blood and bone or bone dust or a very light dressing with fowl manure
usually gives good results. Application of weak liquid manure also gives
satisfactory results. Artificial manures such as the soluble products now sold
under various trade names are also very good and have the advantage that
they are not so liable to clog up and decompose the compost so much
as the bulkier long lasting organic products. No manuring should be carried
out during the period the plants are dormant and when green root tips are
absent.

It should be understood that weak dosages are important and desirable.
Applications of concentrated manures are liable to harm the root system

Continued on page 98



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June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—QREHIDACEAE Page 77—Vol. 2

THE COOKTOWN ORCHID

By A. W. DOCKRILL (Cairns) and S. T. BLAKE (Queensland Herbarium, Brishane)

The Cooktown orchid, a native of northern Queensland, from a little
north of Cairns to some of the islands of Torres Strait, has been widely
cultivated for a long time and has been freely used as a parent in artificial
hybrids. Recently it was declared the Floral Emblem of Queensland.

Dendrobium bigibbum Lindl.

This form is that usually known as the Cooktown Orchid

At least three botanical names have been used for the Cooktown orchid,



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Page 78—Vol. 2 ~ AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE ~ June, 1963

namely Dendrobium bigibbum, Dendrobium bigibbum var. phalaenopsis and
Dendrobium phalaenopsis; more recently Dendrobium bigibbum forma phalae-
nopsis has been proposed for it.

Many botanists and others have studied the Cooktown orchid bui we
have felt that a re-examination would be worthwhile. One of us (S.T.B.)
has also investigated the nomenclature which has previously been taken very
much for granted. Quite a large number of names are concerned and it
would be out of place to treat this subject here, but a full discussion will
be published elsewhere. All that is necessary here is to state that there
has been a mistake in identification—that true Dendrobium phalaenopsis is
not an Australian plant, and that the name Dendrobium bigibbum var. phalae-
nopsis cannot under any circumstances be used for the Cooktown orchid. There
has been some misconception about true D. bigibbum, but this name is
certainly the correct botanical name for the Cooktown orchid. It must be
realised that individuals of any species, plant or animal, vary between them-
selves. We readily accept the fact that there are large men and small men,
also some unusually large and some unusually small, any of which may have
black hair, red hair or hair of some other colour. We should be equally
ready to accept comparable variation in Dendrobium bigibbum. From a
horticultural point of view some individuals may be preferred because of size
of flower, shade of colour or lack of it or some other reason, and these tend
to be increased by division. Except for the occasional white-flowered plants
most of the preferred plants are very much alike in habit and size and colour
of flower. It is for these plants that the name Cooktown orchid is commonly
used. They perhaps constitute a variety in the horticulural but not the
botanical sense. A description of Dendrobium bigibbum follows.

A moderately tall cpiphyte growing in small clumps. Pseudobulbs 15-120 x 0.6-1.5 cm.
usually slightly swollen at the base. Leaves 3-6 in the uvpper part of the pseudobulbs 5-12 tm
long, more or less lanceolate. Racemes borne opposite the axils of the leaves and almost
apical, the s me psaud~hulbs c~ntinving to fl-wer for several successive years after ihe leaves
have dropped off, 10-40 «m. lonq, carrying about 2 to 20 flowers on pedicels about 2-3 cm.
long. Flowers lasting for several days (up to a fortnight or more if not pollma'ed) 3.5-7.0 cm.
across the petals, widely expandina, usuvally a rather deep lilac but varying from white
through very pale lilac to deep reddish-lilac; the colour range is about that of Imperial Purple
of the Wilsen Coleur Chart of the Royal Horticultural So(ue!y deepening to about Beetroot
Purple on the labellum. Dorsal sepal 15-40 x 6-16 mm., elliptic or oblong lanceolate, acute
or obtuse. Lateral sepals 15-35 x 7-16 mm., about oblong acute, produced at the base to form
with the column foot a straight or curved, conical, obtuse spur which has at its base on the
front side a secondary spur forming a double spur; this secondary spur is much more
pron~unced in some specimens than in others. Petals 15-40 x 15-40 mm.. about as wide, or
nearlv as wide as long, widest at or a little above or below the middle, often asymmetric,
broadly rounded or notched sometimes with a short point, constricted at the base into a short,
bread claw. Lahellum 15-35 x 20-32 mm. (when artificially flattened out) trilobed; lateral
lobes erect and incurved, 7-14 x 8-17 mm., supoblong, very broadly rounded; mid-lobe
6-17 x 7-17 mm., shortly oblona to oblate or also somewhat obovate, very obtuse or truncate,
apiculate or emarainate; disc with 5 longitudinal raised lines or ridges fringed or crested to
varying dcqrees in the apical half their colour either white or mauve. Column not winged,
lonaitudinally grooved below the stiama, 4-7 x 4-7 mm. with a foot 9-18 mm. long more
or less at right angles to it; foot tubular in its apical half or 2/3 with a platform (housed
within the secrndary spur) projecting forwards from the base of the tube, to the apex of
which the labellum is attached. Stigma subscutiform. Rostellum a mere short extension of the
floor of the clinandrium. Anther usually about 2 mm. across, rostrate; rostrum very short and
broad, tomentose. Pollinia tvpical of those of the genus.

EDITOR'S NOTE: Any reader wishing to participate in the activitias of the Epvohitic Orchid
Study Section should contact the leader, Mr G. A. Patterson, 50 Mildura Street, Coff's Harbour Jetty,
New South Wales. The only fee is a stamp, addressed envelone for reply and a desire to learn
more of our native orchids by growing them. He cannot supply plants,

WHEN ON A VISIT TO QUEENSLAND SEE

R. FORD . . . 8 Boyden Street, Toowoomba, Queensland

FOR THE UNUSUAL IN WILDFLOWER PLANTS
(including scme Queensland natives)
SORRY NO MAIL ORDERS



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VAPRIETIES, FORMS AND CULTIVARS OF THE COOKTOWN ORCHID

“| have had to sort out the application of over thirty ‘botanical’ names
thai havc been applied to Dendrobium bigibbum or D. phalaenopsis. Many
of these were given primarily for horticultural reasons such as size or colour
of flower, but | have identified nearly all from one kind of evidence or
cnother. | have recentlv found more in American literature. | have made
on attemp: whatsoevei to investigate obvious horticultural names of which |
have come across a few and there must be others. With all this behind me
now | feel that the remark of a certain eminent English botanist that ‘orchids
are the most immoral of plants’ could well be linked with the proverb ‘Birds
of a feather flock together’. If anybody feels moved to give horticultural names
to the forms of D. bigibbum he will need to be thoroughly familiar with the
texi, implications and application of the International Code of Botanical
Nomenclature anc the International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated
Plants. He will also have to understand the application of thirty-odd names
referred to above and he must search out and investigate all the purely
horticultural names that have been used at any time in any country.” Quotation
from a letter from S. T. Blake.

To embark on mentioning of the various varieties, forms and cultivars of
thic orchid at this stage would be folly. It is proposed, in collaboration with
the various orchid societies in all States, to investicate this matter further to
be cure of our conclusions. Meanwhile every reader who has grown a form
of D. bigibbum or has any reference to variety names please advise Mr A. W.
Deckrill, c/o of the Editor. | hope that the No. 17 issue will carry a report
on the subject.

EUCALYPTS FOR QUELENSTLAND
By L. H. Cockburn, Qakey, Queensland

Queensland is a vast state and | will make no recommendation for
Northern areas of the state. However, for southern areas, the following might
be considered: E. astringens,* E. gardneri,* E. griffithsi, E. megacornuta, E.
calmoronhloia,* E. stricklandii,* E. teselaris, E. wandoo.* are trees from 20ft.
up in height. Dwarf ornamental species rccommended are E. caesia, E. ere-
imophila, E. erythrocorys, E. erythronema,* E. grossa,* E. kruseana,* E.
macrandra, E. nutans, E. platypus, E. pyriformis, E. tetraplera, E. torquata, and
perhaos E. macrocarpa.

While | believe it is an advantage to grow the species mentioned on
well-drained country, the ones | have placed an x on | know will do well in
open plain country in black soil. It is undoubted that many other species
would do well also, but | mention only those which have been tested and
proved reliable. Most of the species above are growing in black soil property
at Bowenville previously owned by Mr. Foster and some would be 15 years
or older. | also find these species do well for me on very well-
drained country at Oakey. | feel that some protection from heavy frost for
the first two years is essential.

With regards species which the koalas like, | will write them down in the
order of preference in teddy tastes:—The Wandoo, E. erythronema, E. mac-
randa, E. kruseana, E. platypus, E. nutans, E. pyriformis, E. angulosa and
E. eleaphora. | have little doubt that other species will be relished when
established. It is undoubted that other species will not be eaten under any
circumstances and a few of these would be E. macrocarpa, E. tetraptera,
E. torquata, E. stricklandii, E. kesselli and E. urnigera.

June, 1963 AUTTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE & MYRTACEAE B Page 79—Vol. 2



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Page 80—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROTEACEAE June, 1963

A Red Grewillea of Queenstand

Colour Photography by Frank Hurley Block by courtesy John Sands Ltd

Grevillea banksii var. fosterii

This phctograph does not do real justice to this beautiful bush. The flower head It the top
has began to fall but the hooked type of flowers that mass together in the six-inch long flower
heads may be scen more clearly.

EDITOR'S NOTE: We hope to do a big iscue devotcd to the beautiful Grevilleas, often
called spider flewers, in the future. Hewever, | qreatly need a competeat botanist to do some
taxoncmy, colour slides of species and reports from members growing plants



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June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROTEACEAE Page 81—Vol. 2

RED GREVILLEA
By L. P. BUTT

Up here in Queensland most gardeners are accuainted with this beautiful
species of the genus Grevillea often called the red silky oak. Named for
Sir Joseph Banks, as were many of our native flora, Grevillea banksii is by
far the most beautiful of the native flora grown and cultivated in the Brisbane
area. It is adaptable to most soils and very hardy in even adverse conditions.
Proof of the adaptability of the plant can quite easily be noted, as it grows
in cultivated and natural state north from Brisbane along the coastal
fringe reaching 15ft. in height. South again on the Queensland Gold Coast
it is used as a street tree heavily pruned and growing as a standard.

The brilliant flower heads of the red variety, known as Grevillea banksii
var. forsterii, are one of the joys of our springtime, and it is floriferous over
most of the months of the year. This long flowering period does not affect
the life cycle of the tree, but the quality of the bloom is better in early
spring and autumn months. | have found that the young tree will flower as
early as 18 months old from seed and after each flowering spree my trees
are heavily laden with large seed pods carrying the flat paper seeds which
are easily propagated in a medium of good wallum soil or a cultivated mixture
of 1 peat moss, 1 bush sand, 1 leaf mould. Vermiculite is also a good standby
for quick raising of seed of this plant.

| have found it to be susceptible to attack from brown scale insects and
a large type of white woolly aphid. One fatality in my garden was from
heavy infestation of the latter. However, control is easily affected by early
use of oil sprays when conditions are noted.

To sum it up: A worthy addition to any east coast garden.

Queensland Grevillea

L. H. Cockburn (Qakey)

Many Queensland plants possess great beauty, among some of the finest
being the Grevilleas. While many of the species are almost unknown to
cultivation they undoubtedly would be highly prized if grown in home gardens,
parks or used as small street trees.

Grevillea banksii

This tall shrub or often small tree growing sometimes to 15 feet, often
much less. particularly the red-flowered variety usually found in gardens.
Foliage is deeply pinnate, segments two to four inches long, broadly linear
or lanceolate, glabrous above, siiky ferruginous underneath, the whole leaf
four to eight inches long. The racemes of erect, compact, terminal flowers
up to six inches in length are produced in liberal numbers throughout the
year. This shrub has proved most adaptable as regards soil and climate.
Grevillea pteridifolia

A tree of 15 to 20 feet. Leaves pinnate with very narrow segments of from
four to eight inches, glabrous above and silky underneath. The flower is of
a rich golden yellow and carried on a terminal raceme of often over six
inches in length. This is an extremely beautiful Grevillea and apart from its
desirability as a garden subjeci, it could well be used as a small street tree
because of its suitable proportions. Most adaptable to cultivation, and very

hardy.



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Page 82—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROTEACEAE June, 1963

Grevillea longistyla

An ereci shrub of seven or eight feet. Leaves linear, six to 10 inches
long, very narrow entire, or deeply divided in three to five segments,
glabrous above and silvery underneath, with midrib prominent. Racemes
of rich shining red bloom usually two to five inches long, and carried well
above the foliage in the Queensland form. Found in many inland areas of
Queensland, and appears to be completely reliable in gardens. When
better known will be one o our fines: garden shrubs.
Grevillea juncifolia

A tall ereci shrub to eight feet, the branches softly tomentose. Leaves
very narrow six to 10 inches long, rigid and rather thick, usually entire
cccasionally divided. Racemes of bloom three to six inches long of a bright
yellow colour, usually several together in a terminal panicle. An excelleni
shrub inclined to become straggly with age, and may respond to some
trimming. Found in inland districts and responds well to cultivation, but
is a little difficult in the seedling stage .
Grevillea decora syn goodii

A shrub of from four to six feet, with the superficial appearance of a
small bloodwood when not in flower, the leaves being oval-elliptical to
oblong-lanceolate four to eight inches long, glabrous and of a pale colour.
Terminal spikes of bloom often two or three together, and of a rathei dull
red colour. This species might best be described as something rather different.
Quite easy of cultivation but will be cut back by heavy frost.

Grevillea refracta

A tall shrub of rather slender habit, the young branches tomentose.
Leaves mostly pinnate of several segments two to five inches long linear
lanceolate, the terminal one often broad, nearly glabrous above and densely
silkly pubescent underneath. Racemes of rich orange bloom are short but
usually several together in a small terminal panicle. Very easy to grow,
and appears very hardy in cultivation with a long flowering season.
Grevillea sessilis

A tall well branched shrub of six to 10 feet. Branches clothed with
ferruginous-tomentose. Leaves deeply pinnate silvery underneath and nearly
glabrous above. Compact racemes of flowers one to four inches long of a
creamy white colour carried on terminating short branches. Appears easy
of cultivation and altogether a most desirable garden species.

Grevillea wickhami

A shrub of several feet or sometimes a small tree, branches and older
leaves nearly glabrous. Leaves petiolate, ovate, sinuate, with prickly pointed
angles, cuneate at the base, one fo one and a half inches long. Racemes one
to three inches long of an orange-red colour carried on terminating short
branches. An outstanding Grevillea almost unknown to cultivation, it appears
to be slightly frost tender
Crevillea dryandri

A quite glabrous shrub with leaves pinnate, numerous, narrow, linear,
rather rigid segments. The branched flower spikes are carried well above
the foliage and are of a most attractive colour combination, the spike being
purple, the perianth white and glabrous, with the style very long and of a
reddish colour. A very beautiful Grevillea of which little is known in
cultivation.



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June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROPAGATION Page 83—Vol. 2

L
Grevillea From Seed
By J. S. HOWARD

| have been growing Grevilleas from seed (about 15 varieties) over the
last two years and | have developed a special method which has proved
very effective. As recommended by H. Boyd in issue No. 7, | use a seed bed
of vermiculite in 3 inch plastic pots, placed in a moderately open position
out of doors to receive plenty of sunshine.

First of all | dampen the seeds by soaking in water for at least three
hours, thus softening the seed cases. Using a scalpel blade which | find
most convenient to handle | then peel off the testa or seed coat fully exposing
the small white “kernel” which in the Grevillea is formed from two halves
hinged at one end. | find | can usually crack off (rather than cut) the long
edges of the seed with a fair amount of pressure and then the rest of the
shell is quite easily removed with the point of the blade. Any nicks produced
in the inner seed do not seem to be deleterious. Very small seed such as
Grevillea prostrata are hard to handle.

Not infrequently the seed when exposed does not have the white
appearance of a healthy seed but is tinged with brown indicating that the
seed is dead, having rotted within the case. This often happens to healthy
unpeeled seed after being planted and these two factors are often the reason
for poor germination by conventional method. With this method you are at
ieast sure of how many good seeds you are planting.

Planted slightly below the vermiculite surface, the skinned seeds can
be seen to green up and the halves separate and a white shoot appears.
Germination is greatly accelerated by removal of the seed cases and the
ultimate yield is improved. For instance seeds of Grevillea buxifolia and G.
triternata which were olanted exactly one month previously, appear to be
almost all up (shooting). There have been no losses trom damping off and the
G. triternata have developed their second pair of leaves.

Other species that have been successfully germinated are G. nemataphylla,
G. excelsior, G. fasciculata, G. insignis, G. tripartita, G. buxifolia, G. juniperina
G. punicea, G. robusta, G. leucopteris, G. pinaster and G. prostrata.

| believe that the technique is best suited to Grevilleas which have thick
hard shells hindering entrance of moisture and air and which are yet fairly
readily removable. Some success seems to have been achieved with Banksia
and Hakea though to a much lesser degree and there may be little advantage
in these instances.

WILDFLOWERS FROM SEED
The Editor Reports on His Experiences with Methods of Seed Raising
Previously Published

“Four-inch terra cotta pots and the broken pot pieces to be used as
crockings are boiled before use. The pots are well crocked and then filled
with Vermiculite (an exploded mica available commercially in small packets
under this name). It is then wetted with previously boiled water containing
a nutrient solution such as Aquasol. A few drops of a root stimulating hormone
such as Formula 20 may also be added to each gallon of water. Press down
the surface compressing the medium a little. Sow the seed on the surface and
cover to twice its diameter with more vermicutite, finally pressing down
on the surface to level off.



@@@ 12 @@@



Page 84—Vol. 2 AUSTRAL!AN PLANTS—PROPAGATION June, 1963

"The pots are stocd on a stand well above ground and in full sunlight.
Water the surface with a fine spray once a day if the sun is not too hot or
twice a day when first germinating on hot days. Boiled water is used.”

This is the asceptic method developed by H. Boyd and described in
Issue No. 7, Vol. 1. It was originally developed to combat the “damping-oft”
problems associated with growing Waratah. For this reason great care is
taken to exclude the “wogs” and parasites that attack the seed or the
young seedlings by using sterilised pots and crockings, an almost sterile
medium and boiled water. Thus this method can be used anywhere by
anybody keen to grow native plants. No special facilities such as a glasshouse,
seed box, etc., are required and success is assured.

Lazy workers such as myseli (Editor) have simplified the method still
further where a reasonably algae free town water is available, by simply
washing the pots thoroughly (I prefer plastics pots for seed raising, as they
are easily cleaned and keep the seed bed moisture) using clean, new crocks,
anc water straighi from the tao. | have noi even bothered with adding
nutrieni solution or additives to the water, alhough | assure readers the
results are much better if you do. As i cannot water at midday in cummer
| place the pots to receive full sun only a few hours, or cover with glass
placed well up to allow air to circulate under it. The glass clouds up, filtering
the sun a little, bui the glass must be gradually removed when the seedings
stari to appear. In mid-summer | also use an almost sterile coarse sand io
cover the seeds, as it does not dry out as quickly. The important thing is to
place the pots oui of reach of the wogs from the ground. | place mine on a
large, clean rock.

It is easy to germinate mosi seeds in this manner, especially if planted
in August-September. | had 100 per cent. germination of fresh Telopea
(Waratah) and Blandfordia (Christmas Bell) seed with this method. With the
hard testa seed of the Leguminoseae such as Acacia, Kennedya, etc., | soften
the seed coai first by pouring boiling water over a teaspoon of seed in
the bottom of a cup and leaving it soak, usually about one week, until it
inflates. It is then sown in the manner above.

When Mr Howard sent me his article on germination of Grevillea
seed by peeling off the seed coat, | tried it with a number of species of
Grevillea and Banksia, using some unpeeled seed as controls. In the case of
the Grevillea the peeled seed germinated very quickly and with a much
greated percentage germination than the unpeeled seed, some of which
finally came up. With the Barksia results were not encouraging. This was very
pleasing as | have had trouble with germination of some species of the
Wesi Australian Grevillea.

Ii appears that there is a lot to commend the “peeling method” on
certain seeds. The outer coating of the seed is to protect its valuable contents
until favourable conditions occur for its germination in the bush, or to preserve
the seed so that germination occurs over a period, sometimes years, to
preserve the species over successive unfavourable seasons. We wish to
nominate when the seed should germinate and supply asceptic conditions by
using the above method to protect the inner, and now vulnerable seed
from attack by prey. It is widely known that some seeds even have a
substance on the seed coat that prohibits germination for varying periods.

Continved on za~e 94



@@@ 13 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—STREET TREES Page 85—Vol. 2

Brassaia Actinophylla
By H. OAKMAN, A.LLA., Brisbane

This tree is found in the rain forests of Northern N.S.W. and Queensland
where it starts life either on the forest floor or, like some of the Figs, in the
forks of other trees, sending dowr aerial roots to ground level and later
on developing a trunk 1o suoport itself. Fully-grown trees reach 50 feet in
height with a trunk diameter of 18 inches. Like most of the rain forest trees
the trunk is buttressed or fluted, although not excessively so.

Most botanists regard Brassaia as a distinct genus but some American
authorities classify it under Schefflera. It was named after Count von Brassai
(1797-1897); the specific name is from Greek aktis meaning ray, and phyllum,
leaf, referring to the long stalks on the leaves.

The commcn name, Umbrella Tree, is derived from the very young
leaves which resemble an umbrella. In Hawaii the common name is Octopus
Tree because of the resemblance the flower stalks have to the padded tenacles
cf an octopus.

Reprinted frem Some Trees of Australia, by courtesy of the Jacaranda Press.

The Umbrella Tree growing in Clayfield St., Brishane. Approximately 25 years old, is lightly pruned
every sciond year. Llife expeciancy is at least £0 years.

The Umbrella Tree is frost tender and probably Newcastle, N.SW.,
would be its farthest southern limit. It is a fast growing tree and is fairly
indifferent tc soil conditions and exposure, but it prefers a sunny position with
long light hours. When grown in shade the leaves are larger and take on a
deeper hue. Propagation from seed which loses viability fairly quickly, or
from cuttings which strike very easily. Occasionally branches will form aerial
roots close to the parent trunk and these make ideal new plants.

In Queensland the Umbrella Tree is used very exiensively in home
gardens as it is fast growing, hardy and carries attractive foliage all the

year round. It is usually not affected by either disease or insect pests; at

EDITOR'S NOTE: We <hall be pleased io hear of towns using this plant as a street tree.
Eisewhere in this issue the beauiiful Grevilleas such as G. robusta (Silky Oak) and G. banskii are
mentioncd as street trecs. Please report on their use in your town



@@@ 14 @@@



Page 86—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—STREET TREES June, 1963

times, however, it may become heavily intested with soft pink scale and the
young leaves do make a choice article of diet for grasshoppers.

Young plants are sold in their thousands for indoor pot plants and
they are excellent for this purpose as they can survive quite harsh conditions
for a long time.

STREET TREES

It is only compartively recently that this tree has been used for street
tree plantings and it seems to be ideally suited for this purpose, the same
qualities of hardiness, rapid growth, freedom from disease, together with
roots that are not over troublesome, combining to make it so. Being evergreen
the leaf problem is not great but cold snaps and drought will partially defoliate
the tree. Although it is regarded as essentially a shade tree some specimens
bloom prolifically and are particularly attractive when in full flower. The
flower spikes measure up to four feet across and are bright crimson, later
changing to black as the seed pods develop.

Trunk formation and shaping is easy as the Umbrella Tree will stand
any amount of pruning, yet growth is never such as to demand excessive
labour to keep it under control.

In 1954 some of the Brisbane city streets were planted with Brassaia
actinophylla. Nearly 600 were planted and in spite of constant replacements
due to vandalism and vehicular damage, fairly well-defined avenues are
becoming apparent. In situ soil is a deep sandy alluvial, watering is restricted
to droughi time only, and in spite of the impermeable roads and footpaths
the trees are thriving.

Street trees planted in the suburb of Clayfield about 30 years ago
have proved quite successful, giving little trouble either from root growth or
tc overhead wires.

A few years ago when a floral emblem for Queensland was being
sotghi, the Umbrella Tree was a close favourite to the Cooktown Orchid,
and little wonder as nearly every Queensland garden has its Brassaia.

THE UMBRELLA TREE

By RON HILL, Adelaide

Here is one of Australia’s most popular foliage plants. It is a native
of Queensland and Northern N.SW., coming from the sub-tropical rain
forests in that area.

This handsome plant can be and is used for many ornamental purposes.
As a young plant in a pot it is one of the most popular indoor plants and
ic seen used this wav in many grouns of ornamental foliage plants adorning
many of the large city building foyers.

As a garden plant for “structural” use it is hard to surpass for providing
a tropical effeci and is especially useful to incorporate into modern garden
des‘gn. Also the Umbrella Tree has been used extensively, particularly in
Sydney and Brisbane, as a street tree with varied success.

A reasonably good garden soil with plenty of water during its early
growth is all that is required for successful growth of this worthwhile plant.
It is most easily raised from seed which needs to be fairly fresh, as old
seed loses its viability fairly quickly. In flower this tree is quite attractive
with long uprighi spikes of reddish flowers. In Adelaide, however, it does
not bloom as freely as in the Eastern States and seed is usually obtained



@@@ 15 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—STREET TREES Page 87—Vol. 2

Australia’'s Only Rhododendron is from Qld.
RHODODENDRON LOCHAE From W. N. B. QUICK, Melbourne

Rhododendron lochac has been grown by myself in Melbourne for the
last six years, flowering in February each year, and often in September-
October. | have never had a plant flourish when grown in garden soil, but
in a pot using a compost similar to that used for Cymbidium orchids with a
little peaty soil added, and due attention to adequate drainage, the story
is very different.

The species withstands badly-lit situations well, not becoming drawn as
most terrestrial species have a habit of doing under these conditions. Leaves
do, in fact, burn easily in almost any sunlight. Good shelter from wind,
particularly north and west winds, seems desirable if not perhaps essential,
and the plant will thrive under quite dank conditions. | have never had to
move a plant to a warmer situation for the winter.

Altogether R. lochae seems remarkably tenacious of life but there can
be no doubt that it benefits greatly by at least one good watering with half-
strength Aquasol in spring and autumn as new growth commences, and
adequate waterings through the heat of summer. The root system is small,
and with due regard to prevention of drying out in summer, a good-sized
specimen can be grown in guite a small container. Propagation, as for
most other Rhododendron species is by cuttings or seed when available.

from L. A. HARGRAVE—Melbourne

| have had two plants growing for some years. One plant is the original
and the other is from a cutting | progagated. Both plants are growing in
the garden, a bed which is devoted to Rhododendron and Azaleas. Neither
plant gets any sun all day. They are growing in a light soil, mulched under-
neath with tan bark and on too with well rotted grass cuttings. | have had
ceveral flowerings from the original but none from the other but | think it will
come good soon.

| have a further propagated plant growing in a four-gallon drum placed
cn the south side of my block where it gets the sun for about three-quarters
of the day. It is growing in a mixture of nearly all peat moss with about a quarter
bulk of a sandy loam and a sprinkling of well rotted fowl manure through

the whole mixture.

From P. F. Flood, Blark Rock. Melbourne
My R. lochae is only 400vds. from the sea in a partly sheltered position, such that it receives
early morning sun to 9.30 o'clock and afternocon sun from 2 o’clock onwards. The soil is sandy with
goed drainage, land has been built up over the years by mulching, The plant is growing and floweriny
very well eaach yaar
EDITOR’'S NOTE: Issue No. 9 aives det*ails of the finding of this plant on Bellenden Ker, near
Cairns. tnaether with a full colour photograph

THE UMBRELLA TREE—continued
interstate for this reason. Provided seed is sown in well drained soil no
trouble should be experienced in raising young plants.

In the garden this lovely tree usuvally is multi-stemmed, growing to
about 15-20 feet high, each stem topped with an umbrella of large divided
palmate leaves of deep lustrous green. In higher rainfall and tropical areas
it can reach a height of 30-40 feet.

Here then is a native for use indoors when young and a plant to enhance
any aarden as it gets older and outgrows its container. An Australian plant
for all who appreciate handsome foliage to provide that tropical touch to

our Australian aardens.

EDITOR'S NOTE: This a wide'y used indnor pl-nt Please repert en cxperiences. For those who
wish to grow it in a container, Issue No. 11 gives a!l details of pot culture of plants.



@@@ 16 @@@



Page 88—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—STERCULIACEAE June, 1963

STERGULIA QUADRIFIDA R. Br

By K. KENNEDY, Townsville Museum, North Queensland

In some parts of the Townsville district can be seen a medium-sized iree
bearing, in season, conspicuous follicles coloured, outside and in, a bright
red and containing dead-black seeds about the size of a pea. This tree
is known to botanists as Sterculia quadrifida. The name Sterculia was given io
the genus by the Swedish botanist Linnaeus who, like most naturalists of his
time, was a Llatin scholar. Because the leaves and flowers of some species
had a foetid odour he humorously named the genus after Sterculius, the
ancient Latin God who presided over manure heaps. Amongst the ancient
Romans, however, Sterculius was important, for in those days they had no
commercial fertilisers. The specific name quadrifida was given by the
Scottish botanist Robert Brown, who accompanied Flinders in the memorable

STERCULIA QUADRIFIDA

Stamensa
Calyx
/ (Covered with stellate hars)

<
A{“\/\fl/
" ]
‘1\\4 part stigma — 4 W/
\ \ 5
9 \,l)\ stellate hair

s

Pistil.

(Coverad with Staliate hairs)

Nota: All parks magniried.

voyage of the “Investigator’”, because the calyx of the flowers are divided
half way down into four segments.

The family Sterculiaceae takes its name from the genus and includes
the kurrajong and bottle trees. It and the family Malvaceae are closely related,
the chief difference being in the stamens. In both families the stamens
are monacelphous, being bound together in a bundle, the difference between
them is that in Malvaceae the anthers are one celled, whereas in Sterculiaceae
they are two celled.

Although the genus Sterculia gave its name to the family, it is not so
numerous in Queensland as the genus Brachychiton which is included in the
same family. There is not much difference between the two genera, the main
difference being that in Brachychiton the seeds and insides of the seed vessels
are hairy, while in Sterculia they are glabrous, or smooth. There are only two
species of Sterculia in Queensland, they are S. quadrifida and S. laurifolia
The former is a dry country species, and the latter grows in some of the
North Queensland rain forests.



@@@ 17 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRAIIAN PLANTS—STERCULIACEAE Page 89—Vol. 2

The stem of S. quadrifida contains a large amount of mucilage as do
most members of the family. According to W.E. Roth the ethnologist, the
fibres from the bark were used by the aborigines for making nets in which
to drive kangaroos. The leaves are variable, ranging from ovate-acute to
cordate-acute. They are entire and the petioles are ex-stipulate. The margins
are entire.

The inflorescence consists of clusters of racemes bearing both staminate
and pistillate  flowers covered with minute stellate hairs which form
a protective matting. Indeed if one of the flowers is placed in water
the hairs hold air and prevent it from sinking. These flowers are very small,
aboui ¥ m.m. in length, and a microscope is necessary for examination. There
is no corolla, only the calyx, which although gamosepalous is cleft half
way down inio four segments, hence the specific name of quadrifida. The
tips of the segments, however, remain cohering together, therefore the only
way for the pollinating insect to do its work is through the slits. By this we
may infer that the number of carpels is four.

The fruit is ornamental, being a follicle measuring about 42 x 6%2 c.m.,
red in colour, and containing six to eight dead black seeds which are shown
up by the red interior. The seeds are edible, and were eaten by the aborigines,
and later by the European settlers, who called the tree the Peanut Tree.

Soil conditions do not appear to be important in growing these tirees.
They can be found growing on decomposed granite in some of the
gullies on Mt. Kudtheringa (Castle Hill) of Townsville, but one which is now
abcut 15 feet high, was self-sown in beach sand and flowered in July, and
retained its leaves. Those growing on Mt. Kudtheringa had finished flowering in
July, had shed all their lecaves, and bore a large number of follicles.

STERCULIA LAURIFOLIA F. Muell.—a note by C. N. DEBENHAM

While S. quadrifica ranges from Townsville westwards to Arnhem Lead
and as far south as the far north coast of N.S.W. where here it is now a much
depleted brush-forest component, S. laurifolia is much more localised. It is
recorded from only the tropical rain-forest cf sub-coastal North Queensland,
e.g., the Atherton, near Cardwe!l and Mt. Spurgeon. In many respects it is
distinct from the former species. It is a rather tall-growing and slender-
trunked tree, noted to attain 100 feet in height and, in common with many
other rain-forest members, has a trunk prominently buttressed.

Unlike the monoecicus or dioecious S. quadrifida, no record of other
than a laminate-flowered S. laurifolia being collected, is known (Francis, Rain
Forest Trees, 1951). If this is the case, there must remain some doubt as to
the identity of the species, since the distinction of Sterculia from Brachychiton
rests largely on the fruit. Perhaps an interested reader from North Queensland
who is familiar with the species may settle this point. The inflorescence of the
male-flowered plant is that of S. quadrifida but the flowers have calyces
with five segments. Leaves vary in length from 3.5-7 inches and are ovate,
cften abruptly acuminate. It has acquired the local name Cabbage Crowsfoot
from its resemblance to the commercial timber tree, Crowsfoot Elm, Heritiera
irifoliata (of the same family) in wood but this is much softer than that of the

commercial species and is limited fo local use as a case-making timber.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Issue No. 9 aives full details of the closely related Brachychitons including
the Kurrajonas and Bottle Trees of Queensland. Who in Queensland will report on their growth
habit and their use as street trees.



@@@ 18 @@@



Page 90—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—BOOK REVIEW

ERRATA TG PAGE 97 Should read as follows:

late spring and summer. Next come the palms who give the rainforest their
tropical luxuriance: Bangalow, Archontophnenix cunninghamii; Cabbage
Tree, Livistonia australis. Both these palms form compact masses that in some
places are almost impenetrable. Treefern growth consists of: Dixonia anfartica;
Todea barbara; Cyathea cooperi, C. leichhardtiania and C. australis. This

and as printed . . .
SCME TREES OF AUSTRALIA 5 ¢ . y . . . 7 By H._Oakman
This beautifully presented little book is one of a series in the Jacaranda Pocket Guides and
its stiff-covered 141 pages make a ncat, easily carried pocket book. Following a brief introduction
each lefi-hand page gives details of one of the 64 Anstralian trees described, opposite a full-page
photograph of the tree with a drawing of its lcaves, flcwers and seed capsules. One qf _ihese
photographs (Brassaia actinophylla) is reprinted in this journal. The trees selected _are principally
from northern N.SW. and Queensland, making it of special interest to people in these areas
keen to know or grow trees, but most species are readily grown in all parts of temperate or tropical
Australia. . .
Published by The Jacaranda Press. Price 13/6.
D!CTIONARY OF AUSTRALIAN PLANTS GENERA 5 . . . . By Na.n(y T. Burbidge
A new and important work on Australian plant genera, it will be hailed by many as
the most important publication for many years. It is a very easy book to ljefer .|ol'ihe‘ genera
being arranged in alphabetical order with the number of species listed with distribution and
authors. Wrongly applied names, synonyms and homonyms are also mentioned. At the back of
the book all genera are listed and arranged—this time in their families—the families being in
alphabetical sequence. i
The size of the two larqest Australian plant genera, Acacia and Eucalypts, are both given
at approximately 600 species. The following genera are listed as natives and might cause surprise
to some. Cirrhonetalum Lindley, 1 sp. N.E. Qld., Vanda Jcnes, 2 sp., onz endemic to Arnhem
Land and N.E. QId.
The last attempt at anything like this was in 1889 when Von Mullers’ second census on
Australian Plants was published This makes the need for a modern “‘Australian Flora” felt. ’
Reviewed by H. Boyd—Published by Angus & Robertson. Price £5/5/-, postage 1/9.

KING'S PARK AND BOTANIC GARDEN, PERTH, W.A.
announces publication of the first Seed List of W.A. Plants.
(586 species available.)

Seed List 1/6 post free. Seed 3/- per packet.
Wholesale rates on application.

Books of Australian Plants, Etc.

WE SEARCH THE WORLD FOR RARE AND OUT-OF-PRINT BOOKS

THE ALPINE FLOWERS OF THE KOSCIUSKO STATE PARK (edited
K. G. Murray) col. plates. 12/6. Post. 1/6.

TRIGGER PLANTS (Rica Erickson) col. and b/w plates. £2/5,-. Post. 16,

ORCHIDS OF THE WEST (Rica Erickson) col and b’/w plates. ¥1.5 -
Post. 1/6.

FERNS OF VICTORIA AND TASMANIA (N. A, Wakefield) illus. 7 6.
Post. 9d.

KEY TO THE EUCALYPTS (W. F. Blakely). Descriptions of 522 species
and 150 varieties. £1/4/-. Post. 1/6.

ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE BUDS AND FRUITS OF EUCALPTUS
SPECIES (Forestry Commission). Illus., to be used in conjunction
with above. 8/6. Post. 1/.

FOREST TREES OF AUSTRALIA (Forestry and Timber Bureau), col. and
b/w plates. £2/2/-. Post. 1/6.

AUSTRALIAN NATIVE PLANTS FOR THE GARDEN (A, E. Brooks),
illus. £2/5/-. Post. 1/6.

‘0 AUSTRALIAN EUCALYPTS IN COLOUR (Stan Kelly). Beautiful
colour plates, £4/4/-. Post. 2/3.

TOW TO KNOW WESTERN AUSTRALIAN WILDFLOWERS (Blackall
and Grieve), col. and b/w plates. Part 1 and 2. £1/10/- ea. Post 1,6 ea.

Also new and second-hand books on Australiana, Pacific Art., Natural

History, Gardening, Orchids, Biograp hies and General Literature. We are

Specialists in  Microscopes, Prismatic Binoculars and Astronomical

Telescopes, Magnifiers, Compasses, 10x British Achromatic Magnitfiers.

N. H. Seward Pty. Ltd.

457 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE, VIC., MU 6129

June, l?§3



@@@ 19 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—BOTANY Page 9‘—VQL?

DORMANCY IN SEED
By HELEN LEE

In general, seeds stop growing before they are shed from the parent
plant and do not start growing again until germination commences. It is
not known why the seeds stop growing, although one worker has suggested
that it is due to accumulation of carbon dioxide gas inside the testa. Some
seeds, however, can germinate before they are seperated from the parent
plant and such seeds are called viviparous. Vivipary is common in the
mangroves and occasionally occurs in fruits such as grapefruit and orange.
It may also occur in grasses in wet seasons.

The time at which seeds are able to germinate varies from plant to plant.
Some seeds can germinate as soon as they are shed and remain capable of
germination for a considerable period, depending on when suitable conditions
for germination occur. In a few cases, e.g., Oxalis, the seed can germinate
as soon as it is shed but it will die if germination does not occur at this
time due to unfavourable environmental conditions. However, the majority
of plants produce seeds which will not germinate for a period of time after
they are shed, even though environmental conditions may be suitable. Such
viable seeds are said to be dormant or in a state of dormancy or true
dormancy. Dormancy may be primary or secondary. Primary dormancy
describes seeds which are dormant from the moment they are shed. Secondary
dormancy refers to seeds which may germinate immediately after being shed
but if conditions are unsuable at the time they become dormant.

Usually dormancy is due to the embryo of the seed being immature
either morphologically or physiologically, or the seed may be mature but
some other factor inhibits germination. Under natural conditions, viable seeds
in a state of true domancy will eventually germinate. In some cases artificial
means are known whereby the period of dormancy can be shortened but,
on the whole, the underlying causes of domancy are not well known and
many facts are as yet unexplained. Some of the known causes of true
dormancy and ways of breaking it will now be discussed.

1. Morphological Immaturity of the Embryo

Sometimes the embryo is not completely formed by the time the seed
is shed from the parent plant, e.g., in a species of Ranunculus (buttercup),
when the seed falls the embryo is small and undifferentiated but it continues
to grow during autumn and winter and is not fully formed until the spring
when germination may occur.

Obviously this type of dormancy cannot be broken as soon as the seed
is shed but in some cases the growth of the embryo can be hastened by a
process known as stratification. In this process the seeds are placed between
layers of moist sand, sawdust or other suitable material and kept at a low
temperature (about 32" —50 F.). The terms stratification is unsatisfactory
in that it refers to the layers of moist material whereas the point of the treat-
ment is that the seeds should be kept cold and moist. Stratification will some-
times shorten the dormant period of seeds which are morphologically
immature but it is also known to reduce the dormant period or break
dormancy due to other causes as well, and therefore is of considerable prac-
tical importance. The time of treatment varies from a few weeks to several
months depending on the species of seed.

2. Physiological Immaturity of the Embryo

In this group are seeds which have a morphologically mature embryo

when they are shed. However, these seeds are not mature physiologically



@@@ 20 @@@



Page 92—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS-BOTANY June, 1963

and various chemical changes, which are not fully understood, take place
during what is known as the after-ripening period. Examples of such seeds
are found among many of the native grasses, apples, hawthorn, etc. Sometimes
stratification will hasten the after-ripening process.

3. Impermeability or Hardness of the Testa
(a) Testa impermeable to water.

Such seeds are very common, particularly in the family Leguminoseae,
e.g., clovers and wattles, as well as other plants such as asparagus and
cotcneaster. Under natural conditions such seeds germinate when the iesia
aventrally decays or breaks open so that water may be absorbed by the
seed. Artificially, this type of dormancy can be broken by scratching the
testa, or by boiling or freezing the seed, or by lighting a fire over the seeds
spread on the ground. All these treatments cause injury to the testa and
render it permeable to water.

It is probably relevant to mention here that a number of legumes
produce a proportion of seeds with impermeable testas and these are called
“hard seeds.” E.g., sub-clover produces 30 to 70 per cent. hard seed which
can remain dormant for up to 18 months, whereas the rest of the seed will
germinate immediately. The proportion of hard seed produced seems to be
related to the time at which the seed is harvested after it becomes mature
but the reasons for this are not fully understood. It has also been found
that the proportion of hard seed is reduced if mechanical methods of
harvesting or seed cleaning are used. This is because of mechanical damage
to the testas thus reducing the number of seeds which are impermeable
to water.

(b) Testa impermeable to oxygen.

In some seeds oxygen is unable to diffuse through the testa and as
oxygen is usually required for germination, such seeds remain dormant.
This type of dormancy is found in the seeds of some of the grasses and in
some members of the family Compositae. It has been suggested that the
lack of oxygen not only reduces respiration but also that an inhibitor to
aermination may be present in the seed and this is only broken down in
the presence of oxygen. This type of dormancy is broken by the same means
as those described for seeds with testas impermeable to water.

(c) Testa too hard for emergence of radicle.

In such seeds the testa is so tough that the young radicle cannot force
its way out on germination so the seed remains dormant until the the testa
has nartially decayed and lost its strength. Seeds of his type are produced
by the water plant Alisma plantago. Dormancy can be broken by damaging
the testa and under natural conditions the testa decays as the seeds lie under
water.

4. Liaht Conditions Unsuitabie

The effect of light has already been mentioned and also the fact that
most seeds germinate eaually well in darkness or light. In some seeds,
known as light-hard or “dark,” germination is retarded or prevented by
light. e.g., some species of Phlox and Allium (onion). In other seeds which
are known as light-sensitive or "light,” germination will only take place if
the seeds have been exposed to light. e.g., some species of Rhododendron,
Ficus (fig), and Veronica. The time of exposure to light which is necessarv
to ensure satisfactory germination varies with species, e.g., in the case of
tobacco seed the time is one hour.

Quite a number of treatments may partly or completely remove the
light reouirements of light-sensitive seeds. These include removal of the



@@@ 21 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—-CULTIVATION Page 93—Vol. 2

testa, placing the seeds in pure oxygen gas, treatment with various chemicais,
exposure to alternating high and low temperatures and after-ripening in dry
storage.

The mechanism of the light effect in promoting germination is
unknown. It has been suggested that it triggers off chains of chemical reactions
or destroys substances which are inhibiting germination, or alters the
condition of testas so that water or oxygen may then permeate them. There
is some evidence to support these theories but on the whole, many things are
as yet unexplained.

5. Absence of Special Stimuli

Many seeds will remain dormant, or if germination occurs, growth will
not ccntinue, unless some special stimulus is applied. These stimuli are of a
special nature and are restricted to a few types of plants. Three of them
will be discussed here.

GROWING WILDFLOWERS

(Extraci from the book Australian Gardening of Today Illustrated—chapter,
Australian Native Shrubs, by Edwin Ashby, F.L.S., Wittunga, Blackwood, S.A.)

Some thirty years ago | began removing seedlings of native shrubs into
my garden in South Australia, treating them in the ordinary way with surface
watering. We suffered many losses during the dry heat of summer. The
next step was to make a semi-rockery in which the sides were of loose stone
separated by five feet of sandy loam. This was a real advantage because
the drainage was good and some native shrubs survived for twenty years.
But this method was discounted by too much drying out. During summer the
moisture was evaporated not only from the top but through the sides. This
was followed by making raised beds, like artificial sandhills, in which a lot
of sand was incorporated.

Visitors to the garden regarded it as a great success, but it proved
very expensive, as the sand had to be scooped and carted some distance.
These beds were watered by long overhead pipes. Then came a year in
which the season broke early with a heavy fall of rain, after which cool
autumn weather prevailed. | had three or four bushes of Waratah (Telopea
speciosissima) five feet 1all. These, in spite of cool weather, began to look sick;
there were thirty or more well developed buds on the bushes, and yet in a
few days all these healthy looking bushes were dead. We came to the
conclusion that the rain, though so heavy, had never reached the subsoil, and
the reduced surface watering was insufficient.

Then in the spring of 1927, with a companion and two camels, | came
down the rabbit-proof fence from Yalgoo to Ajana in the Murchison country
of Western Australia. After we had travelled for three or four days we
came into the wonderful flora of the sand plains, where there was a
profusion of native shrubs. We came to a low hill of clay and gravel, and
here we found the same flora as in the sandy country, but all the plants
were much healthier and the flowers more abundant. It was quite evident
that there was no merit in the sand itself; for here, where there was no
sand but all yellow clay, gravel and stones, the shrubs were better and
stronger. It was only a question of drainage. Given this important factor the
clay gave better fertility.

We realised then thai sand is unnecessary for the growing of all native
shrubs, the important factor supplied by a depth of sand being drainage.



@@@ 22 @@@



Page 94—Vol. 2 - AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CULTIVATION ~ June, 1963

Since that time we have made no more artificial sandhills; so long as the
necessary drainage is supplied, the quality of the soil is comparatively
unimportant. Pure washed sand, while good for striking cuttings, is valueless
if humus or other fertile ingredients are not supplied. The plants, whether
succulent or native, will become unhealthy and die.

The next important factor is water, and the way in which is is applied
is a matter for thought. Why did those splendid bushes of Waratah die?
It was not heat, for the weather was comparatively cool; nor was it lack of
surface moisture, for that was abundant; but the roots that supply the
Waratahs with moisture were down in the subsoil and were dry. Remember
that almost all parts of Australia have to endure several months of rainless
weather, and even the well watered forests of Queensland are subject at
varying intervals to drought years. Therefore, the shrubs of Australia have
developed a habit of throwing all their energy, especially in their youth, into
sending the main roots down into the subsoil as quickly as possible.

Take a Myall, one of the central Australian Acacias. Before the two
seed leaves show above ground, its tap root will be several inches long.
| have in mind one case in which a whole year passed and the stem above
ground was not over haif in inch high, but its root was down two feet. The
other day | had occasion to empty a Calothamnus out of a pot and although
it showed a bare six inches above ground, iis practically single root, when
untwined, was over four feet long. Had it been growing in the open and
not in a pot, that root would have gone straight down and the plant could
have stood five months’ drought without harm.

It became apparent that the real place in which Australian shrubs require
water is in the subsoil; and so we have adopted a method of earthing up rings
of five feet or six feet in diameter round our shrubs and filling these with
five inches of water at regular intervals. Here in South Australia, when
shrubs have got beyond the juvenile stage, once every three weeks is
sufficient; but if an extra long hot spell comes, an extra watering is beneficial.
Indeed during hot weather, and always in small gardens, it would be better

once a fortnight.
ED!TOR’S NOTE: We can learn much from this article printed 30 years ago.

WILDFLOWERS FROM SEED—continued from page 84

I used a razor blade to peel my seed and found it quite effective if
care is taken. To me a further great advantage is that when the seed coat is
removed you can see whether the seed is nice and fresh and viable and not
rotting and obviously dead. You will be surprised to find sometimes that
out of a nice packet of seed only a small percentage are of any use.

For the fine seed of plants of the Myriaceae family such as Callistemon
(bottlebrush), Melaleuca (honev myrtles), Leptospermum (ti-trees), Calothamnus
(net bushes), etc., the bog method as described in Issue No. 3 (available at
4/- each) gives me almost 100 per cent results; the only problem being
not to grow too many seedlings. It does not require any special facilities
and is an excellent method for the beginner also.

The concepi of the removal of at least part of the seed coat is not new,
although i seems cdd that the total physical removal of it on large seed
has not been widely adopted kefore ihis in suitable cases. In No. 2 issue
H. Boyd gives details of a methed for removal of the seed coat by chemical
means and this method is ideal for small seed.



@@@ 23 @@@



THE GENUS ERIOSTEMON
Parf 5—N.E. Australian Species Not Described Earlier
By JEAN GALBRAITH

QUEENSLAND AND NORTHERN N.S.W. SPECIES

The northern species are in most cases quite distinctive.

E. banksii A. Cunn., “Bank’s Waxflower”’, has fairly broad, firm, oblance-
olate to lanceolate leaves with several parallel veins joined by fine net veins.
Apparently recorded only from sandy country in Cape York Peninsula.

E. smithianus Hill, has very small ovate leaves with rounded teeth white
flowers and smooth beaked fruitlets with hair tuft at tip- The leaves of this
and the next species are noticeably thin in comparison with other small-leaved
species. Both are dense, leafy bushes of 2ft to 3ft.

E. parvifolius R. Br., “Small-leaf Waxflower”, has small wedge-shaped
leaves which appear crenate, but this is merely the irregularity caused by
marginal glands. It is apparently a lover of rocks and is found on rocky hills.
Tubercles usually few on leaves and stems. Flowers white; fruitlets tuberculate
but not beaked.

E. queensiandicus C. T. White, “Wallum Waxflower.” A beautiful little
shrub rarely as much as 2ft. high, with erect, usually unbranched, stems, from
the rootstock, or with a few short branches near their tops. Wallum Waxflower
resembles a dwarft small-leaved form of E. myoporoides, with small, dull
lanceolate leaves, very concave and usually somewhat oppressed (bent upward
toward the stem). However, though the flowers are pedunculate, each peduncle
bears only one, or occasionally two, flowers on short pedicels. This is a
shrublet well worth bringing into cultivation because it is large-flowered,
often pink, and very dwarf and erect. It is abundant in the sandy coastal strip
of S.-E. Queensland, known as the Wallum, and grows through a dense
healthy underbush of Boronia and other species. The fruitlets unlike those of
E. myoporoides are blunt.

E. glasshousiensis Domin. ""Glasshouse Waxflower”” is rather more luxuriant
and leafy than Wallum Waxflower—at least in the Glasshouse Mountains
area, where it has often quite large, soft, spathulate leaves and long-stalked
flowers. It arows also in a mountains round Stanthorpe where it has much
smaller, stiffer leaves and shorter-stalked, abundant flowers. The Stantho pe
form is the most decorative, with short leaves that are almost cuneate (wedge
shaped). All forms have mucronate leaves, while those of Wallum Waxflower
narrow gradually to the apex. Fruitlets of E. glasshousiensis are bluntly pointed
but not beaked.

E. linearis A. Cunn and E. ericifolius A- Cunn., two northern and cent-al
N.S.W species, appear from herbarium material to be much alike, but E.
linearis has axillary flowers and an ovary without hairs, while E. ericfolius
has terminal flowers and a hairy ovary. | have seen only one small living
spray of E. linearis, but know E- ericifolius as a delightful little shrub with
rough, cylindrical leaves of a pleasant, bright, rather yellowish-green and
large lilac flowers with stamens so feathery that the flowers look like those
of a crowea until it is noted that it is the filament below the anther, not the

appendage above it, that is hairy.
EDITOR'S NOTE: Previous issues 4, 5 6 and 14 have described thz sou'h-eastern species

June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE ~ Page 95—Vol. 2

1

with full photographs. 1 have not been able to get a colour slide of any Queensland species
te illustrate this issue. Nexi issue will describe the West Australian species and give a large illustrated
key to all Australion species. These beautiful ““wax flowers’” make ideal small garden subjects

cultivated as described in Issue No. 4. Who has grown the Queensland plants?



@@@ 24 @@@



Piggiélvi)!. 2 . AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE June, 1963

NATIVE ORCHIDS

By H. J. BEAR

Where They Grow, Why They Grow and on What They Grow at
Latitude 33 Sourh (Central N.S.W.)

In a previous article dealing with the ecology of native epiphytic orchids,
wet and dry bulb thermcmeter readings showed the necessary percentage
of humidity required to maintain a biotic community. By this we mean a
group of plants that over a long period of time have maintained by climate,
environment and association a group that is more or less foreign to those
prevailing outside their boundaries. Ihe first essential is high raintall, (60" o
100" per vyear), the second is low evaporation rate and the third is a
group of plants whose characteristics, large leaves and ribbed fronds, as
carried by palms and treeferns, provide the medium for heavy condensation,
and transpiration from their own leaf systems to add to the moisture
already contained in the surrounding air masses. Many climbing ferns,
(Pyrrosic rupertis, Phymatodes diversifolium and P. scandens, “Haresfoot’'—
Davallia pyxidata and “Elkorns”—Platycerium bifuratum), use the treeferns
and Bangalow palms as a medium to obtain moisture and support in their
race for light and position among the prolific rainforest growth. A container
placed on the trunk of a Bangalow Palm at sundown will provide drinking
water by morning.

Temperature falls approximateiy one degree Far. for every 300 feet
increase in altitude so a drop of 3 degrees in temperature is sufficient to
bring about dew point at the 900 feet level from the breezes blown in from
the sea throughout the greater part of the day and for most of the year
and provides rainfall far in excess of the 40” to 50 per annum of the coastai
plain. Gravity conveys condensed moisture into the 1000’ deep gorges and
the low evaporation rate maintains high humidity.

The following hygrometer readings were taken at 500 feet altitude in the

dense rain forests on the slopes of Mount Heaton, 1600
Wet Dry Altitude Rel. Dew Time REMARKS
Bulb Bulb Hum. Point H Lat. 33 South. 17/6/61
45 F. | 52 F. Zero 60% 38 F. 6.30 a.m. Sea level. West shore. Lake Macquarie.
F. 49 F. | 500ft. 78% 43 F. 9 a.m. Readings taken in dense rain forest on Mt. Heaton
46 F. 52 F. 500ft. 60% 41 F. 12 noon Clear sunny day. Gale force W to NW wind.
F. 51 F. 500ft. 81% 45 F. 3 p.m. 6 mls separating sea leve! and rainforest readings
F 55 F. Zero 57% 41 F. 5 p.m. Sea level. West shore. Lake Macquarie.
Relative humidity 51% at Williamstown R.A.A.F. Station

It will be noted that the above readings were taken when the air mass
moving over central and northern N.S.W. registered 519 relative humidity
at Wiliamstown R.A.A.F. Station and shows the high humidity maintained in
the protected rainforest gorges This indicates that physical geographical
features can cancel the dehydrating action of the dry air movements from the
west during the winter months and maintain conditions suitable for a
healthy biotic community of sub-tropical plants.

Plant humus and decayed basalt, which at one time covered the Hawkes-
bury Group of rocks and cappings of which still remain on Mt. Warrawolong,
Mt. Yengo and Mt. Tomah, provides the rich soils that support the following
plant growths: Sassafras; White Beech—Gmelina leichhardtii; White Cedar—
Melia axedarach; Black Pencil Cedar—Tieghemopanax elegans; Red Cedar—
Cedrela australis; Coachwood—Ceratopetalum apetalum; Flame Tree—Brachy-
chiton acerifolium; Brush Fig—Ficus eugenioides; Tallow Wood—FEucalyptus
microcorys; Rose Wood—Dysoxylum fraserianum; Turpentine—Syncarpia lauri-
folia; Stinging Tree—Llaporiea gigas and its antidote the Cunjevoi Lily—
Alocasic macrorrhiza—whose bilooms fill the jungle with sweet perfume in



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June, 1963 - AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Page 97—Vol. 2

is by no means a complete catalogue of rainforest trees indigenous to the
area but will serve for the purpose of the article and may stimulate the interest
of others to complete the list.

High in the treetops are huge Birdsnest Ferns, Asplenium nidus, and
growing from their bases are the beautiful Willow Ferns, Asplenium falcatum,
forming pendulous masses of fronds 2 to 3 feet long and drawing nourishment
from the compact mass of fibre formed by the decaying leaf butts of the
Birdnest Ferns. Rarely is it seen growing in any other position.

At the 700’ level a creek drops by cascades falling 200 ft. into a deep
ravine, tree trunks and limbs are covered with liechens and mosses together
with the climbing ferns listed previously, these in turn provide the necessary
medium for orchid germination. Large clumps of Bulbophyllum shepherdii,
B. exiguum, Dendrobium gracilicaule, D. aemulum, long stemmed variety,
D. pugioniforme, D. teretifolium variety fairfaxii, form hanging curtains on
tree boles and branches with occasional plans of D. becklerii on creekside
trees, D. striolatum is represented on adjacent rocks and cliff faces. Large
Birdsnest Ferns, that by their own weight, have fallen from aerial perches and
ccecupy suitable positions on large boulders that stud the floor of the ravine.
The Christmas Orchid, Calanthe veratrifolia, is well distributed on the slopes
ond leaf mould pockets. It was here that the giant Den. tetragonum mentioned
in the previous article was found growing on trees overhanging the water-
course. Sarcochilus olivaceous is plentiful in many cases anchored by one or two
roots to branches over the creek. Looking up through a break in the tree
canopy we can see for the first time cliff faces covered with Rock Lillies,
Den. speciosum, that in springtime display hundreds of flower spravs to the
morning sun, many plants by seed or aerial arowth have found their way
onto rainforest trees but owing to lack of sunlight rarely flower.

Continuing down stream the valley floor widens and the trees of the open
forest mingle with those of the rainforest, the short stemmed variety of
Den. aemulum appear on the Ironbarks, E. paniculata. Cymbidium suave
in its many forms now commands attention by the size and number of plants
available for observation. in one place a p'~at of Cym. canaliculatum has
crossed from the Hunter Valley into the Lake Macquarie watershed. There are
probably more awaiting discovery.

Approaching estuary waters Den. aemulum, Cym. svave and Den.
linguiforme are still plentiful, the last named being much attracted to the
paperbark species and sheltered rock faces. Here in flat swampy places stands
of swamp oak, Casvarina glauca, appear and what is probably the most
spectacular of our native orchids the “Bridal Veil”, Den. teretifolium occupies
trees overhanging the water ways and Lake Shores. Fully matured plants would
be 3 to 4 ft. in diameter and supporting 500 to 1000 flowers with a
perfume that on a warm spring morning makes you aware of its presence
long before it is seen.

This article depicts only some of the botanical life in a valley whose
watercourse is more or less on latitude 33 south from source to mouth
approximately six miles from the western shores of Lake Macquarie. It is
a pocket size subtropical museum only 40 air miles from Sydney and
similar parallels are reproduced only in Northern New South Wales and
Southern Queensland.

EDITOR'S NOTE: The previous article ‘‘Native Orch'd Ecnlogy’” in issue No. 9 an this
unique area was used to persuade the Government Authority of the importance of holding this
last flourishing ecosystem of subtropical plants as a perpetuval reserve.



@@@ 26 @@@



Page 98-Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANYS—ORCHIDAE(EAf777 ~ June, 1963

GROWING THE COOKTOWN ORCHID—continued from page 76

so that the principle of “little and often”” should be adhered to for the best
results. A dose of liquid manure once every one or two weeks during the
growing season usually achieves a desirable result. Plants growing on trees
of course cannct be treated as well in this regard as can plants in pots
or baskets. In this case, however, the results which can be obtained from
potted plants should not be expected either in growth or number and size
of flowers. Spraying the plants on the trees with solutions of soluble fertilisers
at weekly intervals gives good results in the growing season.

Situation

The Cooktown Orchid is a sun loving plant and can be grown well in
full sunlight or in a well-lighted bush house or on or under a tree which will
allow a fair amount of sun on to the plant. It should, in any circumstances, be
given the advantage of the morning sun at least. In South Queensland,
it should be placed so that it is sheltered from the south-westerly winds in
winter and situated so that the position is one which is conducive to a high
humidity.

It is frost sensitive and should, therefore, not be placed low down
in frosty areas.

In the drier areas of the State such as the inland, more care is necessary
in regard to situation than on the coast due to the low humidities. In the
dry inland a protected corner or a bush house is even more essential
than elsewhere. Growth on a citrus or other garden tree where protection
from dry winds and where the surroundings are kept reasonably moist should
be satisfactory. If frosts fall plants in pots or baskets which can be moved to
suit the season would perhaps be better in these circumstances. They could
be brought indoors on frosty nights.

Type of Plant

For the more discriminating grower, there are many improved strains
of the orchid which have been produced by celection and breeding from
choice wild plants. These have much larger flowers and the colours and
shapes are much improved. There are also many hvbrids between the Cook-
town Orchid and other soecies which have very desirable characteristics.
These aond special varieties are obtained from nurserymen who deal in
orchids and who often produce the plants themselves.

The best type of a nlant to obtain for establishment is a younqg one.
The old matured plants such as those obtained from the bush do not
usually adapt themselves so well or so quick to new surroundings as do the
young vigorous seedlings.

Aerial shoots often develop on the old stems. These when showing a good
root system can be cut off and established as a new plant. They are a
good source of young plants. When these appear on plants which are
established on trees it is often a good idea to just tie the new aerial growth
to the nearest bark surface with a piece of twine without removing it
from the pareni plant. Such aerial growths soon become established and the
old stem from which they developed then dies.

Propaaation

There are two methods of propaaation of the Cooktown Orchid. These
are by seed and by division. The growing of the plant from seed as in the
case of other orchids is a complicated technical process and seedlings are
therefore usually obtained from commercial growers or enthusiastic amateurs.



@@@ 27 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Page 99—Vol. 2

Much variation of type occurs in seedlings.

To propagate by division one can take the “aerial” shoots already
mentioned or can divide the parent plant. This is done by carefully separating
tha rhizome or creeping stem of the plant with a sharp knife between two
living pseudo bulbs (upright stems). The cut should be made leaving at least
two good pseudo bulbs together for the leading growth. A dormant eye on
one of the back pseudo bulbs vusually develops into a new shoot thus
producing another lead. The plant should be left in position until the new
back shoot develops. It may then be left to form a large plant with more leads
o: carefully separated and repotted to form an extra plant.

When to Establish

It is preferable to obtain new plants or divide old plants just before
summer growth commences in order to take advantage of the full summer
growing season for establishment. That is, plants should preferably be
obtained in early summer. In the case of plants bought in pots of course this
does not apply as they are already established and may be obtained at any
time.

Flowers

The Cooktown Orchid comes into bloom in South Queensland from the
end of February and the season usually finishes in June. In North Queensland
flowering commences somewhat earlier and in the far north flowers may
be seen sometimes right through the year.

The flowers vary in size and colour and shape with the different forms
of the plant, but all are long lasting and remain in full flush for up to six
weeks. From three or four up to a dozen or more blooms are produced on
a spray and in good conditions two or more sprays may occur on a pseudo
bulb. The sprays appear on the current seasons growth as well as on that of
the past year or two. Different varieties of the plant often flower at different
times in the season. Some are early flowering and some are late.

When cut the flowers last 2 to 3 weeks in a vase either as sprays or single
flowers.

In the early morning in full sunlight the flowers sometimes produce
a strong geranium scented perfume.

Pests

The chief pest of the Cooktown Orchid in Queensland is the Orchid
Beetle. This is an orange insect marked with black about 1/3 inch long
with the general appearance of the pumpkin beetle. It is particularly a nuisance
in the case of plants grown in the open where they are unprotected. It
is a pest of most orchid flowers and new growths.

The insect is particularly partial to flowers and new leaves and lays
its small, longish, yellow eggs in the flowers and on new shoots. The grub
which hatches from the eggs also eats the flowers and new leaves and then
tunnels into the new growths killing them. It forms a white cocoon, in the
damaaed stem and sometimes outside in the leaf axils.

The adult beetles, the eqggs and the larvae should be watched for
durina summer and destroyed.

Another pest is a scale insect which develops on the leaves and pseudo
bulbs. This mav severely affect the growth of the plant but is easily controlled
by spbrayina with white oil.

The cnmmon red spider also sometimes attacks the plants and is also
fairly readily controlled by sulphur dust or one of the proprietary lines.

I//



@@@ 28 @@@



Page 100—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—NURSERYMEN - June, 1963

PRESERVATION BY CULTIVATION

]IF]I[a@IIRA]I[aANID&

KARIONG, via GOSFORD, N.S.W.

A large variety of the most popular native plants at nursery
PHONE: Gosford 21142 P. J. PARRY

AMAROO NURSERY — UU 7342 WYALANDRA NURSERY
86 Lang St., Padstow, N.S.W. 47 Jacana Grove, Heathcote
160 varieties of native plants. Many
displayed in a garden setting.
Eucalyptus, Banksia, Dryandra, Hakea,
Acacia, Hibiscus, Leschenaultia, Paws. ‘
l

Wild{lowers ol the Heatheote area
In Stock:

Send stamped envelope for list Species of Boronia & Eriostemon

More than 300 Species . . .

Native and exotic trees and shrubs
available from Forestry Commision
nurserics at Pennant Hills, Dubbo,
Forbes, and Narrandera, N.S.W.

For free catalogue giving complete details and prices
of species contact:

FORESTRY COMMISSION

OF N.S.W

44 Margaret Street, Sydney. Telephone: B 0236

For Effective Pest and Disease Control Use

Yates Garden- master

MULTI-PURPOSE SPRAY



@@@ 29 @@@



June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—NURSERYMEN
YOUR GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANT NURSERYMEN

Abel, J. L.—P.O. Box 26, Nowra. Native plants from 2/6. Freight and pack. extra.
Althofer. G. W.—Nindoihana Nirsery, Box 5, Dripstone, N.SW. Very wide range.
Amaroo Nursery—86 Lang Street Padstow. One of the widest ranges of natives.

Belbra Nursery—Box 12, Hall's Gap, Vic. W. and R. |. Stanton. The home of the Thryptomene.
Boddy's Eastern Park Wursery—3z Denman St., Geelong, Vicroria. 3 000 varieties.
Clearview Nursery, W. Cane, Box 19 Maffra, Victoria. Specialist in developed plants.
Denovan’s Nursery—188 Marco Ave., Panania, Sydney, N.S.W. At nursery only.
Echberg’s, G. A. & K. M., Nursery—Braeside, Highett & Moorabbin, Victoria.

Ford R.—8 Boylen Street, Toowoomba, Queensland. At nursery only.

Mcleod, F. C. J. Mcleod—Warrien Rd., Croydon Victoria—Quality Plants,

Narrabeen Nursery, 1444 Pittwater Rd., Narrabeen Nth.,, N.SW. Plants for coast.
Parry, P. J.—'Floralands’, Kariong via Gosford, NS.W. A wide range. Postal orders taken.
Tinderbox Nursery, Tinderbox Blackmans Bay, Tasmania.

Tullamarine Plant Farm, 8 Sharp’s Road, Tullamarine Vic.—Open weekends,

Willunga Nursery—21 Nelson Street, Thornleigh, N.S.W. From 2/6. Mail orders accepted.
Wyatt P.—33 Plummer Road, Mentone, $.11, Victoria—Hardy plants.

Wyalandra Nursery—47 Jacana Grove, Heathcote. Wildflowers of Heathcote area. N.S.W.

YOUR GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANT SEEDSMEN

Nindethana Box 5, Dripstone, N.SW. For all Native Seed. Packets, ounce or pound lots. Free
list on application. Special supplies of West Australian Seed.

Australian Seed Co. Robertson, N.S.W. Bulk or packet lots. Stamped envelope brings lists.

Western Wildlife Supply, Gilgandra, N.S W.—Bulk supplies of natives and exotic tree and
shrub sead to the trade—Special collections to order.

Page !017—\!0}3 2

BELBRA NURSERY
In the Heart of the Grampians

LARGE RANGE OF
AUSTRALIAN NATIVES

Inquiries: Box 12, HALL'S GAP

NATIVE PLANTS —
USUAL & UNUSUAL
F. C. J. McLEOD

Wildflower Nursery
WARRIEN ROAD, CROYDON, VIC.

NARRABEEN NURSERY
74 AUSTRALIAN NATIVES

1444 Plttwater Rd., Narrabeen
Nth, N.S.W. — XX 2604
OPEN EVERY DAY

Specialist in plants for sea coast.

TULLAMARINE PLANT FARM
8 Sharps Road, Tullamarine
Phone: 30-7893
1 mile north of Melbourne Airport
Open Weekeonds, Closed Mondays

— SHRUBS, TREES, PERENNIALS —
Native & exotic, popular & rare

COLOCEPHALUS BROWNII
ORANGE LESCHENAULTIA
EUALYPTUS NICHOLII
Send  stamped  envelope for list
“Willunga™, 21 Nelson Street,
Thornleigh, W.J 3709

G. A. & K. M. ECHBERG'S
NURSERY

Lower Dandenong Road
Braeside. Tele.: 91-9438

' omile west of Springvale Road
[ ]

THE HOME OF UNUSUAL
PLANTS

NATIVE AND EXOTIC

DENOVAN’S NURSERY

Good Range of Native Plants
available at Nursery

188 MARCO AVENUE, PANANIA, N.S.W.
Specialist in plants for clay areas.

FLOWER POTS

Colourful Plastic Flower Pots

and Bulb Bowls will Increase

Your Sales of Plants. Write for

List from Manufacturer or Ring
LA 4089.

Alba Engineering

20 ROWLEY ST.,, CAMPERDOWN, N.S.W.
BOX 32 P.O. LA 4089

NATIVE PLANTS

101 HARDY VARIETIES
P. WYATT, “KANANOOK”

38 Plummer Rd., Mentone, S.11
Victoria

AUSTRALIAN NATIVE PLANTS
3,000 varieties
Grown in the Open — Plants dispatched
to all States
Catalogue and Planting Guide 4/-

Boddy’s Eastern Park Nursery

32 Denman St., Geelong, Victorla
ol.: 2598



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Page 102—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—THE SOCIETY i ”Jime,il?iJ

THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS
AUSTRALIAN PLANTS” IS AUSTRALIA'S NATIONAL PRESERVATION JOURNAL
(A non-profit making venture, produced quarterly, dedicated to preservation by cultivation.)
This journal is published by The Publishing Section on behalf of:—
SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—N.S.W. REGION:
President: Mr. C. M. Taylor, 142 Ernest Street, Crows Nest, N.SW.
Secretary: Mr. D. Sands, 39 Herbert Ave., Newport, N.SW.
SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—QLD. REGION:
President: R. J. Peach, Bushland Nursery, Sunnybank, 5.8, Q’land.
Secretary: Mr. P. Hamilton, Carnoola Street, Bardon, Brisbane.
SOUTH AUSTRALIAN SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS:
President: Mr. A. Webster, 26 Avenue Parade, Frewville, South Australia
Secretary: Mr. E. J. Thompsen, 115 Wattle Street, Fullarton, South Australia.
SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—VICTORIA & TAS.:
President: Mr. G. Echberg, 22 Middleton Street, Highett, $.21, Victoria.
Secretary: (Sister) E. R. Bowman, 4 Homebush Cres.,, Hawthorn, E.3, Vic.
SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CANBERRA REGION:
President: Mr. H. Jcnes, 5 Yallourn St., Fyshwick, Canberra, A.C.T.
Secretary: Mrs. 1. A. Ovenstone, 20 Savige St., Campbell, A.C.T.
WEST AUSTRALIAN WILDFLOWER GROWERS’ SOC. INCORPORATED:
President: Mrs. J. Hamersley, Great Eastern Hwy., East Guildford, West Australia.
Secretary: Miss M. Munro, 90 Basinghall St., East Victoria Park, West Australia.
Membership is open to any person who wishes to grow Australian native plants.
Contact the Secretary of the Society for your State for information without obligation.
PUBLISHING SECTION FOR SOCIETIES
Publishing Cemmittee for this Issue: R. N. Dallimore, P. D. leak.
Sec.: K. Coxhead Dispatch: V. Hopkins, assisted by J. Birles, N. Gane, C. Hubne:r, with families
Ilustrations: A. Spurway. Llettering: E. Ham.
Advertising and Sales Representatives in each State: N.SSW. P. D. Leak; QIld., W. W. Kilgour;
LA, ). S. Birch; Tas,, G. van Munster; W.A. F. Lulifitr; Vict., F. R. Jeffs.
MAIL—Address mail to the Editor, 250 Picnic Point Road, Picnic Point, N.SW.
SUBSCRIPTION—Members: Your 1962 subscription is now due. Please send dues promptly.
NON-MEMBERS: You may receive the next 4 issues direct to your home by forwarding
an annual subscription of 12/-. Overseas subscriptions are 12/- sterling or 1V2 dollars.

NINDETHANA NURSERY

BOX 5, DRIPSTONE, N.S.W.
OVER 1000 SPECIES STOCKED
All Australian natives with special supplies of plants and seed of West Australian species

THE PIONEER NATIVE PLANT NURSERY

Catalogue — 4/- Posted

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suggest you give us the opportunity to prove it

SURREY BEATTY & SONS, Rickard Road, Chipping Norton.
Phone: 72-7404 Phone 72-6522



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June, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—EPACRIDACEAE Page 103—Vol. 2

Lpacris lmpressa Labii
By W. N. B. QUICK, Melbourne

1. Propagation—Vegetative Method

Consistently useful results can be obtained from any material less than
one year old. Under trial, however, optimum results were obtained with
stem cultings seven to eight cms. in length taken from just below the soft
tips in May, while the plants were in bloom, a decided advantage in selecting
cclour-forms for propagation. Foliage is cleanly stripped from the lower half
ot the stem in the normal manner, and any flowers or large buds removed.
The location of cuts in relation to leaf nodes is not critical.

Preparation of Propagation Medium, etc., in Five-inch Pots: Coarse crock
to a depth of Tlin. to 1%z2ins. is covered with a layer of milled sphagnum moss
to a depth of lin. A coarse ('sin. to '4in.) sharp, granite gravel and peat
moss mixture (1:4) for hal{ the remaining depth is followed by a similar
medium or finer grade (1/16in. to 'sin.) to within Yin. of the rim, and a
final topping of fine sharp sand. Cuttings set in a well-shaded cold frame
without bottom heat form good root system within nine to ten months. It is
importani when transferring to individual containers to thoroughly firm the
soil around the roots.

The effeci of the milled sphagnum is obscure, possibly serving only as
a buffer to sudden changes in moisture content of the medium. Without it,
and using the gravel-pecat moss medium alone, results were certainly inferior.

This method of propagation has been used for some years now and
while the time taken for cuttings to form roots may seem uneconomically great,
a large number of cuttings can be fitted into a five-inch pot, and a good
succession of propagations kept up. There does not seem to be any optimum
season for taking cuttings.

The method has been used successful for: Epacris longiflora; E. reclinata,
E. impressa var. grandifolia, E. microphylla, and other generas such as Astro-
loma pinifolius, A. adscendens (syn. Styphelia adscendens), A. conostephioides
(only fair success to date), A. ciliatum, Sprengelia incarnata, Melichrus
urceolaris, and Monotoca scoparia. The few species of Leucopogon have not
been successful, possibly due to poor material, but these may be raised from
seed easier.

2. Propagation From Seed

Seed must be after-ripened (by storing) for 12-16 weeks in a cool dry
room. Seed should be surface sown in September, and in open shade.
Containers, preferably metal, should have provision for only slow drainage,
as the sced musi be kept very moist at all time. Germination is very
slow, and may take 12 weeks. Initial growth is slow, and seedlings grow
only about half an inch during the following six months, after which their
height increases more rapidly. Transplanting may be carried out at any time
if care is taken, and hot, dry weather avoided. Plants wiil flowei at 18 months
and a height of 8in. to 12in.

Seed collected in areas of pure colours, such as near Labertouche (rich
deep blood-red) and the Otway Ranges (deep carmine) comes true to colour,
3i least in the first generation.

EDITOR'5S NOTE: We in‘end to have an issuc en the Epacridaceae in the future. | hope this
article will spur readers on to grcwing these plants and reporting results, We need colour slides
of all specics. We kncw nothing of the Queensland species of Heaths. Who in Queensland will heed
ou: cry?



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Page 104—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—EPACRIDACEAE June, 1963

THE FLORAL EMBLEM OF VICTORIA

Colour Photography by Frank Hurley

Blocks by courtesy of John Sands Ltd.

EPACRIS IMPRESSA Llabil.

This beautiful wildflower, the Commen Hea'h—Victoria’s Floral Emblem—has becn proclaimed

a protected wildflower as frem 19th March, 1963. All of its forms, red, white and pink as showmw

above, are included. The Socic'y is prcud of the success achieved, in zssociation with other

societies local to Victoria, afier such a long battle. Planis may be cbtainad for your garden from

nurserymen listed on Page 101, or they may be propagated frem s-od oblained from a reputable
supplier as clearly described cn Paze 1G3.

V>Wholly set up and printed by Surrey Beatty & Sons, Rickard Road, Chipping Norton, N.SW.