'Australian Plants' Vol.2 No.17 December 1963 +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | The text in this file has been extracted from 'Australian Plants' Vol.2 No.17 December 1963. | | | | Please note that the file was compiled from a scan of the original document. As successful | | scanning is dependent on the quality of the original, there may be errors in the text where | | the scanning software was unable to recognise particular words. | | | | PLEASE USE THE FOLLOWING LINK TO VIEW THE ACTUAL, ACCURATELY FORMATTED | | JOURNAL, INCLUDING ILLUSTRATIONS AND PHOTOS: | | | | https://anpsa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/Australian-Plants/Australian-Plants-Vol2-17.pdf | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ PUBLISHED BY THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS IN 8,800 COPIES PRICE: THREE SHILLINGS Registered at G.P.O., Sydney, for transmission DECEMBER, 1963 Vol. 2, No. 17 by post as a periodical Volume 2 will comprise issues, No. 13-20. Colour Photography by Frank Hurley Blocks by courtesy of John Sands Pty Ltd BORONIA MEGASTIGMA GROW SWEET SCENTED BROWN BORONIA IN YOUR GARDEN CROW THE NATIVE ROSE AND OTHER SYDNEY BORONIA — by P. J. PARRY THE PROPAGATION OF BORONIA AND CTHER WILDFLOWERS BY CUTTINGS GROWING THE RIVER ROSE - by A. M. BLOMBERY GROWING THE COOKTOWN ORCHID - AUSTRALIA'S MOST BEAUTIFUL ORCHID @@@ 2 @@@ Page 138—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANT5—RUTACEAE ~ Dec., 1963 ' SYDNEY BORONIAS by P. J. PARRY There are more than thirty (30) species of Boronias and only popular Sydney species will be mentioned. Boronias do best in rockeries or built up beds, with a liberal quantity of iecf mould turned in before planting, and the bed top-dressed with ieaf inould afier pianiing. Keep ithe beds free from weeds, but further digging of soil should be avoided, as the less root disturbance the boronia plants have, the beiter chance they have of survival and successful growing. They do not require a lot of watering, but should not be allowed to dry out during hoi or windy weather. Most boronias are difficult io raise from seeds, and are usually propa- gated by cuttings using seimi-hardened wood about three inches long. Cutting pots should be prepared with ample drainage in the bottom and filled with coarse sand. When rooted, the cutiings should be removed and grown on in pots or tubes and then planted cut to their permanent positions when large enough. | have plants of Boronia serrulata, B. floribunda, and B. pinnata that are over thirty years old. Boronia serrulata, commonly called “native rose” is a beautiful species of Boronia which grows in isolated creas of eastern New South Wales generally on sand stone ridges, which arc reasonably well drained, and sheltered by larger native shrubs. This variety is fast becoming a popular subject for home gardens. Boronia floribunda is another particularly good variety, and grows to a height of five feet. The colour ranges from white to pink with a strong, delicate perfume. Boronia ledifolia usually called the “Sydney boronia” is pink, grows to an average height of three feet and is one of the earliest boronias to come into bloom. It usually blooms from June to September. These three Boronias have a long life if grown under suitable conditions. Boronia pinnata is pink and scented and requires a cooler iemperature than most Boronias to be grown successfully — such as a gully area sheltered by trees to break the direct sunshine. Boronia fraseri also requires similar conditions to B. pinnata and is a lovely deep pink late flowering variety. AUSTRALIAN PLANTS AS A CHRISTMAS CARD Why not use this issue as a novel Christmas card to your friends completing the following plaque with your Christmas greeiings? Copies are available from the Editor, 250 Picnic Point Road, Picnic Point, N.SW., with an envelope, at 3/- plus 5d. postage or for 4 copies or more, postage free. For other gift suggestions such as a bound volume comprising issues nos. 1-12, see page 162. (I NN N . W | NP e g Ol . I nleas ’ dev wl . N S/ Washing you o Merry Christinas and pleasant vrcinories of o @Q NG fricudship. While reading of these beantiful flowers it il ~e (R N, another expericice shared. fi§ 4N ........ h En W T S W TN ; 4 ././/f/// LIl e r,\/// ey ////// YOUR SUPPORT OF THIS NON-PROFIT PUBLICATION IS APPRECIATED @@@ 3 @@@ Dec., 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Page 139—Vol. 2 The Cultivation of Boronia by W. N. B. Quick, Dargan Hill Nursery, Victoria Probably the most logical approach to a talk of this nature is to start by defining quite briefly the conditions under which Boronias, with the odd exception, are NOT likely to succeed, and discuss each in turn. Like most other groups of plants, native or introduced, Boronias do have their likes and dislikes, if only we can spot them. The fcllowing would, | think, head any list of “dislikes”: 1. Severe soil-temperature fluctuation, particularly to temperature over about 75 degrees F. at a depth of 17-2". 2. Sudden seasonal change in the water table or moisture content of the soil. 3. Alkaline soils. High temperatures in the soil are caused partly by direct heating from the sun, and partly by high air temperatures and hot winds. Local overhead shading alone, even with a fence as shelter from hot winds, may not be effective protection. Probably most of you have noticed from time to time in the garden or while out for a drive, that air from below trees or through foliage seems degrees cooler than generally prevailing tempera- tures. This is not imagination, but a direct result of natural evaporation from leaf surfaces. If then, shrubs are used as the windbreak, hot winds will be slightly but definitely cooled in passing amongst them, and within limits, the more foliage it circulates through, the cooler it will become. Further than this, if the shrubs themselves are shaded by trees, the cooling effect will be even more pronounced. | hope it will be seen from this that it is rot really desirable to STOP a breeze from reaching the plants as a fen:e might do, but to diffuse it and at the same time cool it as far as possible. Hot sun should of course be prevented from reaching the soil surface adjacent to the plants. In very exposed areas, large stones and boulders will help greatly in avoiding sudden temperature changes in the so'l helow them. In a few words, from a soil-temperature point of view, small clearings amongst shrubs and trees should suit Boronias well. Soil moisture content is perhaps easier to control. First and foremost, if drains are to be laid, get them in before planting is commenced. It's a bit tough on any plant to “educate” it to one water-level, and then suddenly remove this and expect a new root-sysiem to form at a lower level in a week or so. The actual moisture content of the soil seems not so important to Boronias as its consistency throughout the year. Under cultivation it is generally easier and more satisfactory to aim at a fairly low level. A plot protected by open or “field” drains about 6" deep will drain quite well in wet weather, yet require a minimum of watering in the drier part of the year. If, on the other hand, you are an incurable and regular waterer, it would probably be better to raise the plot a few inches, and allow it to stabilise for a few months. In the older established garden, competition from other shrubs and trees nearby will keep the level of soil moisture fairly constant and maintain the most natural balance. Here again we can sum up by saying that small clearings amongst shrubs and trees will be the most satisfactory from this second point of view. These conditions in actual practice have proved most satistactory. Alkaline soils are a much more difficult problem. Small areas may be @@@ 4 @@@ Page 140-Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Dec.,, 1963 fairly satisfactorily treated with sulphur, or very acid bush litter in regular dressings. Aluminium sulphate is a bit risky to use once plants are in ihe ground, and the effects not sufficiently permanent to pre-treat the plot. For a bed featuring Boronias in alkaline-soil areas, it will almost certainly be easier and cheaper in the long run to "import” soil for a raised bed, or grow in containers. The problem however is not common in Victorian soils. Soil Types for Boronias have so far not been mentioned, and indeed Boronias seem little concerned whether they are grown in the heaviest clay loams or in deep sands. Commercial plantings exist in the former near the Dandenong Ranges, and in the laiter around Westernport Bay, while near Seymour they are grown on alluvial soils and lateritic gravels. Many of the plants in these plantations exceed eight years of age, and several | know of are over twelve years old. It seems certain that these plants are better off in rather nitrogen- deficient soils, receiving what they need of this element from organic matter on the surface. During spring and autumn months this will be available to them, while over-rapid summer growth in o watered garden will be avoided since the surface dressings will dry out before decomposition can proceed to any extent. In very heavy loams it may be an advantage to work some well-decayed organic matier into the top inch or so, mainly to help young roots penetrate widely as fast as possible. Rotted sawdust is excellent for this purpose, particularly where natural topsoil may have been removed. All these special conditions | have mentioned may tend to make a gardener wonder if it is worthwhile, but please bear in mind that these are aiming ot the ideal, rather than the passable. Many species vary in their tolerance of unfavourable conditions, and will often give brilliant displays in apparently “impossible’” situations. Boronia heterophylla and B. megariigma will withstand very wet winter conditions, and B. pilosa can withstand high temperatures. On the other hand, some of the central eastern species iike B. floribunda, B. serrulata, B. ledifolia and particularly the lovely B. barkeriana, are very sensitive to hot winds and excessive sunlight. Gradual selection, particularly amongst self-sown seedlings, will eventually give us morc adaptable plants. MAINTENANCE & CARE IN THE GARDEN Pruning:- Quite apart from the need to remove the excessive summer growth in over-fertile soils, or a desire to cut bloom, Boronias should be pruned and pruned hard from their first year, either during or just after their flowering season. Most species have a very small and compact root system, and if allowed to become lanky con be badly loosened by freak gusts of wind. Perhaps of more interest to the gardener though, a well-pruned and compact little plant may have twice or three times the life expectancy of the unpruned one. This is almost certainly the reason commercial plantings iast as long as they do. INSECT PESTS & DISEASES Scale:- Boronias belong to the same family as the Orange and Lemon, and like these trees. are liable to attack by citrus scale, which | think most people know by sight. An unthrifty plant, or perhaps a single branch on a plant, will often be found to be harbouring these pests. If left unchecked, these can sometimes kill a plant, but the remedy is simple — a spraying with white oil at recommended strength while doing your Continved on page 163 @@@ 5 @@@ Dec., 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS —-RUTACEAE Page 141-Vol. 2 THE "BELL-FLOWERED" BORONIAS by W. N. B. Quick Amongst the ninety-odd species of Boronias occurring in the temperate and subtropical areas of Australia are a number of distinct plants which we can group — for convenience only — under the heading of “bell- flowered” species. More correctly perhaps these could be referred to as imbricate-petalled species, the petals overlapping noticeably in ihe opened flower. The bell-like shape formed by the concave peials of several commonly- grown species is so familiar that this floral form is often wrongly assumed to be typical of the whole genus. The great majority of species however have flowers resembling a four-pointed star, sometimes with the tips of the calyx lobes just showing between the bases of the petals. Most of these latter species also form a “bell” of sorts when the petals of a spent flower close over the developing seeds, but the petals in this case do not overlap. It is hardly surprising that all except one of these unusual species have developed in the botanical wonderland of the south-west corner of Western Australia. The one exception, of a very distinct character, and reservedly included within this group, is Boronia serrulata of the central coast of New i Colour Photography by Frank Hurley Blocks by courtesy of John Sands Pty. Ltd BORONIA SERRULATA — THE NATIVE ROSE The only Eastern species of this group is shown pictured here with Flannel Flowers @@@ 6 @@@ Page 142—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Dec., 1963 South Wales. The limited areas of occurrence of ali, and the rather spacialised development of the anthers of the Westralian species suggests ihat they may have become dependent on some unusuai agent for effective pollinaiion. Seldom do they set seed in the eastern states, however favourable the environment mignt be for their growth. | have on occasions seen a small hole eaten through the base of a petal of B. heterophylla, presumably by one of our native bees, and this would seem ihe only ready approach to the pollen of several species. If the group does not include the most delicate colours and forms of ihe genus, it certainly does not lack interest in other respects, for within it we find one of the brightest and one of the darkest colours of the floral world, the most commercially-exploited of our native flora (excluding trees), and all the scented species of Boronia. It is quite possible that all species of the group possess a marked perfume, but who is to tell us, for the perfume of Boronias appears to be on the threshold of human detectability. Most noses can savour the sweetness of B. megastigma and B. heterophylla, but it is the foriunate few (I am told) who can enjoy the fragrance of B. purdieana in the winter garden, or the subtle suggestion of roses by B. szrrulata. The writer feels hardly qualified to verify just which of the species are in fact already known to be scented, as all except the first-named are right off his wavelength! Perhaps compounds extracted from the blooms of these plants will one day provide a yard-stick to measure our least-calibrated sense. Colours represented within the group include the deep bronzy-brown, often near black, of B. megastigma, bright golden-green, deep rich maroon red, to the brilliant glowing rose-cerise of B. crassipes. To anyone interested, there lies ahead a wonderful field for the development of truly beautiful and valuable hybrids from species of this group. There would seem however a need for some preliminary work to determine at what stage of flowering the rather elusive poilen is maiure and shed, and whether the stigma is receptive at the same time, or later. It is possible, but unlikely that the flowers are protogynous, having the stigma receptive before the pollen is mature. Yet another remote possibility is that the petals are actually shed before the other parts of the flower are fully mature. It may be of some help in hybridisation experiments to bear in mind that the male factor, ihe pollen, will tend to have more influence on the flower colour of a hybrid ithan the female factor, while the latter may have the greater control over the form of both flower and shrub. THE SPECIES Boronia heterophylla. “Kalgan Boronia.” Habitat: Almost limited to the Kalgan and King River districts near Albany, usually occurring a little further from the permanently wet areas than Boronia megastigma. A compact, erect shrub of three to five feet. Leaves usually 3-foliate in young plants, the lateral pinnae of many specimens being deciduous, and these plants appear afterwards to produce only simple foliage. Young stems glabrous. Flowers bright rose, often paler towards the base of the petals, and becoming almost white as they age. Fragrant. Often confused with B. elatior and the following species in the trade. @@@ 7 @@@ Dec., 1963 S AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Page 143—Vol. 2 Boronia "‘heieropiryiia” For many years, a plant bearing this name has been extensively grown in and around Melbourne commercially as a cut flower, in private gardens, and the Botanical Gardens. This plant, with glabrous, usually 5-pinnate foliage and bright rose, fragrant flowers, has always been vegetatively propagated. Within the last few years however, seed of B. heterophylla has been available commercially, and has produced a variable and generally similar population of plants, yet visibly distinct from the plant formerly known under this name. The stigma of typical B. heterophylla is rod-like and the sepaline anthers aimost round in longiiudinal section. The stigma of the plant we have formerly known under the name is swollen, and four longitudinal lobes are obvious, while the anthers are acutely heart- shaped in longitudinal section. These differences may perhaps justify it being regarded eventually as a distinct species. Any information regarding this plant, or early records of it in cultivation would be welcomed by the writer. Boronia elatior. 'Tall Boronia.” Habitat: South-west Western Australia. Under cultivation the name may seem misleading, the plants being of very much the same stature as the preceding two species, with which it is often confused in the trade. Foliage usually 7-11 pinnate, the young stems downy to some degree, sometimes markedly so. This character is sufficient to separate this species from B. heterophylla when the plants are not in flower. The bright rose flowers, not noticeably fragrant, are usually produced later than those of B. heterophylla, and age to a scarlet hue rather than white. Boronia tetrandra. Habitat: Esperance south-west Western Australia. This species | have not yet scen either in its native habitat, or under cultivation. Foliage is represented by Blackall as 7-pinnate. Flowers are bronzy-green, pendant, and noticeably 4-sided. No noticeable scent. Boronia tetrandra. Labill is not common. The flowers vary from yellow to green. It is common eastwards from King George’s Sound to Cape Pasley in white sand. C. A. Gardner. Boronia purdieana. “Winter Boronia.” Habitat: Dryish sandy soils near Perth, W.A. A very early flowering species, beautifully scented, at least to the lucky ones who can detect the perfume. Seldom more than one foot in height under cultivation. Flowers are pendant, yellow often suffused with a reddish colour. Foliage usually 5 or 7-pinnate, small and often very downy. This little species will flower at a very early age, and produces a tremendous crop of blooms for its size. Boronia sp. indet. “Bremer River Yellow Boronia” Habitat: Near the mouth of the Bremer River, W.A. (AJ. Gray.) Possibly a new species collected by Alf Gray in 1961, it resembles B. megastigma both in flower and foliage. The flower has little or no noticeable perfume, but tc be of good ornamental value. Boronia crassifolia. Habitat: Cape Leeuwin, W.A. (Bentham). The following details, lacking any knowledge of the species at first hand were drawn from Bentham’s Flora Australiensis. @@@ 8 @@@ Page 144—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS -RUTACEAE ~ Dec, 1963 A dwarf, much-branched shrub or undershrub not exceeding 8" in any of our specimens . . . 3, 5 or7-pinnate, rarely 2" long and often much smaller . . . Penduncles axillary, 1 or 2 flowered, short and often recurved ... Petals attain 3 lines ('4”'). The flower colour is not stated but is probably pink. The description suggests that this species could be a useful and delightful little species under cultivation if and when seed is collected. Roronia crassipes. Habitat: South-west Western Australia. The inclusion of this species among the “Bell-flowered” species may seem extraordinary to those who have seen the open pink star-like flowers cf the typical plant. However, we have for some time been growing a species with the most beautifully intense yet delicate rose-carmine bell-flowers. We feel that these will eventually be separated into two distinct species. Boronia serruiata. “Native Rose”. Habitat: Central coast of New South Wales. A very distinct species, with flowers strictly more cup-shaped than bell-shaped, held more or less erect, and produced in terminal clusters and upper axils. Foliage more or less rhomboid or almost oblanceolate, finely serrated particularly towards the apex. Leaves orientated into one plane along the stems. Seldom exceeds two feet under cultivation. Flowers reported by some to be strongly rose-scented, while others are barely able to detect a perfume. The large flowers are a rather lighter shade of rose than B. heterophylla, and are all the more conspicuous for this. THE BROWN BORONIA AND ITS FORMS Boronia megastigma. ‘Sweet-Scented Brown Boronia.” Habitat: South-west Western Ausiralia, frequent in and around swampy areas near Albany and isolated patches to the west, and northwards towards Collie. In the true swamps a wiry staggling plant often to six fect, growing amongst dense vegetation, and having relatively few flowers. In more open situations near the margins growth is much more compact, and the plants very much freer-flowering. Petals some shade of deep brown to almost black outside, golden-green inside. Mutations of B. megastigma. B. megastigma ‘Lutea’. (Syn. B. m. aurea.) A natural colour mutaiion in which the petals are of a bright golden- green both inside and out. Otherwise similar to the typical plant except for the perfume which is said by some to be slightly more “lemony” than the brown form. B. megastigma ‘Chandler’s Red'. A very beautiful mutation produced some years ago in a nursery near Melbourne from seed collected in Western Australia. Flowers are a beautiful shade of rich maroon red outside, golden-green suffused red inside. Other- wise similar to the brown form. Another mutation, rather resembling this form, but with a pale longitudinal stripe on each petal, has been produced by this same nursery. @@@ 9 @@@ Dec, 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE ~ Page 145-Vol 2 Over the last 70 years the Chander family have been growing and selling Boronia Megastigma commercially; there were several members of the family engaged in raisiny different forms of Boronia and these forms were known in tha main part, by the Raiser’s name, such as Arch’s Early, Arch’s Red, Jack’s Red, etc. These are known collectively as various forms of ‘’Chandler’s Red.”" We have catalegued for many years the following: Early Brown — raised by A. C. C. Chandler of Kilsyth, known by the family as Arch’s Early Brown, still grown commercially and is the carliest Boronia we knzw. Burgundy — there are two forms, both of which are sold as Burgundy. One raised by A. C. C. Chandler, is known by the family as Arch’s Red, the other raised by Jack Maguire (a Brother-in-law) of Boronia is known as Jack's Red. Both of these red forms are grown commercially in quantity and are extremely good Boronias. One commercial grower of Borcnia — Mr. Fergus Chandler of The Basin, informs wus that at present he is propagating vegetatively twenty different forms of Boronia Megastigma. BERT CHANDLER & SON B. megastigma ‘Virtuoso'. This mutation originated in a baich of seedling plants in our own nursery some years ago. Differing little from a typical plant to the eye, it possesses an extremely different root-system, both deeper and more vigorous than any other yet seen, enabling the plant to thrive under condiiions of heat and dryness which would quickly bring death to most normal plants of this species. Flowers are a typical brown colour, but produced over the whole plant rather than just in the uppermost axila. Scent as in the normal form. B. megastigma "“Seedling 23" Another slight mutation from our own nursery, the name of which is very doubtfully acceptable for registration. A good deep brown flower, this form has a scent very noticeably stronger than could be considered normal. It requires favourable conditions to do well, and can be regarded as “just average” from this aspect. BORONIA FROM CUTTING by J. M. CORKERY, Chairman, Stoney Range Native Flora Reserve These notes outline methods used at Stoney Range, located on seaboard (no frosts) sandy soil. Remarkable success has been achieved with Boronia from the Sydney sandstone areas, including the “Native Rose” B. serrulata, B. pinnata, B. ledifolia, etc., with double forms. (1) Take cutting from vigorous growing wood, which, preferably, hasn't flowered, in October-November (mid to late Spring). Length of cutting 2'2” to 3”. Cut cleanly with razor blade, preferably just below where the icaves join the stalk. Remove leaves for about 14", taking care not to tear bark from stalk. Use a razor blade for preference. (3) Plant in good bushland sandy soil in an area which receives filtered sunshine, that is, well protected under trees or shrubs where evaporation is a minimum. (Will also afford protection from frost). (4) Cover each cutting with an inverted jam jar firmed into soil. (5) Keep the ground moist. A good watering once or twice per week, without removing jars, will suffice depending on weather conditions. (6) Remove jars when the cuttings are established, usually 6-8 months. (7) August-September pot into drained tins of generous size, 50% river sand, 50% bushland sandy soil being the best potting soil. (8) Plant out when vigorous usually 4-5 months later. A well drained position, protected preferably by other plants, but receiving an hour or two of sunshine a day is the location to find. (9) The bushes should flower in the 2nd or 3rd Spring after planting out. L @@@ 10 @@@ Page 146-Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS-PROPAGATION Dec., 1963 SIMPLE MIST PROPAGATION OF CUTTING MATERIAL DURING SPRING AND SUMMER H. Boyd Much has been written about the electronic control of mist propagation. This method is expensive and complicated. What is not understood is that this method of propagation can be set up in a frame without the electronic control with very good results. Misting sprays are manufactured in three types — A, B & C — o deliver 6, 18 and 42 gallons of water per hour over an area of 7, 12 and 18ft. respectively. (Available from Warner Bros.) The writer has seen a frame made from polythelene, 4’ square, three feet high, without a top, set up in a partial shade house. The “A” type misting spray is set in the centre of the frame on a watar pipe about one foot above the bottom. It runs constantly in daylight keeping the frame full of a fog-like mist. Cuttings are held in 4" terracotta pots containing large particle sand. Good drainage is vital. For large cuttings blue metal dust is very good. Special facilities are necessary to drain the spent water away as the pots must not stand in water. More leaf material can be left on the cutting (a greaier production of carbohydrates) and rooting is much quicker. A higher percentage rooting is possible for species difficult to root. Most species of Boronia respond to this treatment. This unit may be seen in operation at Mr. Kevin Ragan’s Nursery at Brookvale, near The Mall. The Effect of Dilute Acid (HCL) on Sand used 1n Cutting Propagation by H. Boyd The writer has been aware for many years of the value of an acid sand-peat moss medium for the propagation of plants belonging to the family Rutaceae. Tests were run using many other plant families and all tests in an acidified medium gave better results. The medium was kept at a pH value of 4.5 by using diluted hydrochloric acid. This inorganic acid remains in sand and organic material and does not tend to wash out very readily. To acidify a mixture use “spirits of salts’ (this is diluted hydrochloric acid)®, 5cc. or one level teaspoonful to 3 gallons of tap water, (in Sydney). A little more or less may be needed elsewhere. The propagating medium is well wetted with this mixture. If organic matter is present (peat moss, sphagnum or leaf material) it takes up the acidified water and retains it so it is important that it is broken into smail pieces and well distributed. The propagating medium recommended is Nepean sand (a coarse sharp sand). It must be kept constantly damp if organic matter is not present or it will become more acid and allowance must be made for dilution of ihe acid as more water is washed through. To check the acidity and help maintain its value a B.D.H. indicator paper is useful. Requiring no specialised techniques, the colour chart and instructions on the packet make this a simple task. Indicator papers are readily available for the range 4.5 to 7, for instance from Selby’s, York Street, Sydney. “See ’‘The Treatment of Seed’’ in Australian Plants, March 1960. @@@ 11 @@@ Dec., 1963 AUSTRALIAN FLANTS—PROPAGATION Page 147—Vol. 2 NATIVE SHRUBS FROM CUTTINGS By H. BRACKPOOL To the keen gardener who wishes to strike our native planis, wiin their beautiful and so oftern dainty unique foliage, and their delightfully formed flowers, any suggestions as to their propagation are always welcome. Unlike some exofics that simply need pieces to be pushed into the soil in the righi season to take root without further trouble, most of our Australian plants are harder or even impossible to strike until you discover the right method. Only then do you wonder how it was that you did not hit on this easy way before; though when you see your final results you realise thai all your efforts were worthwhiie. Here | will give my experience of the few with which | have been successful; although first | should detail some general principles that | have learnt from other people or discovered myself in the process. Cuttings are best struck in pots of bush sand or something similar, with about a third drainage material at the bottom. These to be placed in «a bush house on bricks or such to permit excess water to get away, or as wita mine, they are put similarly in the shade of a large tree that permits a little overhead sunlight to come through in summer; yet are in a position where the early morning winter sun from the north is mostly unobstrucied in its access. Moist cuttings such as those from plants with fleshy leaves, or young tips of new growth, need plenty of shade. Covers such as glass jam jars only encourage rotting. However, sometimes jars can be put around each if the bottoms have first been removed. This seems best done by the old tried method of tying a piece of thick siring or twisted cotton material around the end of the jar or bottle, taking it off again to saturate with methylated spiriis, putting it around the end of the bottle again and setting it alight whilst holding it upwards. When the flame has about finished, plunge the end into a bucket of cold water. Cuttings not quite so moist could have these bottomless jars placed around them, or necked bottles with the bottoms taken out similarly. As can be seen, the amount of cover varies with the moisture content of your cutting, and the hole in the spout of a bottle will naturally not allow as much moisture to escape as will a bigger opening. Cuttings of older growth, or not very moist ones, can usually be best struck with a complete inverted glass jom jar over each. A few leaves should be cut from the stem at the base of all slips and about one-third of the cutting firmed into the soil in the centre of each pot. Pots should be watered daily, unless there is rain, in the mornings in winter and at dusk or midday in summer. During heat waves water twice daily. Now for some examples of shrubs that | have successfully propagated from small slips:— Crowea saligna: Take tips of new growth, about two inches long, from mid-May to June and strike without any glass cover or surround. These should root easily in almost full shade through the winter and can best be transplanted to a quite shady position the following May. Eriostemon myoporoides: Take tips of older growth, about four inches long. Placed in your pots under jam jars is best for this species. Plant ou: the following May if you can see definite growth and know your slips have rooted. This shrub will stand full sun if necessary, but is liked by white wax scale a little. @@@ 12 @@@ Page 148—Vol. 2 ~ AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROPAGATION Dec., 1963 Chamelaucium uncinatum (Geraldton wax bush) is best struck either from young fresh tips with a glass surround (bottomless jam jar), or pieces of older growth about four inches long with a bottomless boitle placed over the cutting. It is much more difficult if completely enclosed by a jam jar, and the slips seem to be best taken from about May to July. When planted out, the positions that | favour are against or near walls facing north-east to north-west. Put a large stake in first for each, but never dig around any natives as they resent root disturbance and they usually dislike lime. Leschenaultia biloba: Four-inch tips, taken from November to January and struck under complete jam jars, give the easiest results for this shrub. When struck the plants can be put out at once, and in bush sand like to be in full sun or almost anywhere. They will do reasonably well in a fairly dry position in loose clay-based soil against a brick wall that faces north-west to north-east. They usually strike in about three months through the summer. When using inverted jam jars over slips of the shrubs that need this method, it is never necessary to remove the jars except to see how your cuttings are progressing. With at least a four-inch pot there is usually a space between the jar and the edge of the pot where the water can penetrate so that you simply water over the jar. Boronia serrulata (native rose): Take tip cuttings about five inches long in December and use the jam jar method to cover completely. It is probably better not to plant out your successes (which should be nearly 100%) before May, 17 months later, but if you are only using a four-inch pot you could risk transplanting in July (i.e., after seven months). When selecting the position in your garden to plant out your native roses, pick a well-drained spot with overhead shade for summer ,but where the sunlight can easily get through from the north in winter, and they like to be grown amongst other shorter plants—though not too near—for company. Acacia longifolia (Sydney wattle): This is the species with very long, thin leaves and long finger like flowers. Tips of these of about four inches can be struck under jam jars quite easily through the summer and could be planted out the following July. As this shrub can develop into a fairly large bush, to about 12ft. high, it needs plenty of room, but will grow in almost any position except a swampy area. Thryptomene paynei: Take your four-inch cuttings any time when the shrub is in flower, and strike using the inverted jam jar method as described for Leschenaultia. The plants can be transplanted probably about six months after putting in your pieces; though it is better to transplant in early spring or through the autumn to winter. Hypocalymma angustifolia (honey myrtle): Four-inch tips of older growth taken through the summer are best, and could be planted out to open ground into almost any sunny position a few months later. This plant is very hardy. Hypocalymma robustum (W.A. pink myrtle): Easier to strike than to grow. Take four-inch tips of old growth in May and strike under a bottomless bottle. These will strike through the winter and you could probably safely tale off your bottles about November, though it could be advisable not io transplant before the following May. When planting out select a spot with overhead shade in bush sand and where the sunlight from the north can come through in winter. Some of these should survive; but surprisingly you could also get success in loose clay-based soil in a fairly dry position against a brick wall that faces around north. @@@ 13 @@@ Dec., 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—BAUERACEAE THE GENUS BAUERA by A. M. Blombery Amongst the plants particularly adaptable to the cool, moist and shady parts of the garden is the genus Bauera. The genus takes its name from the Bauer brothers, two early Austrian botanical painters of whom Ferdinand went with Flinders on his voyage in the “Investigator” in 1801. This small genus of three species and one variety has been placed in several families over the years and is now assigned to a family Bauveraceae. The genus has the following characteristics: shrubs with opposite sessile (without a stalk) leaves; each divided into three small leaflets with ihe appearance of a whorl (arranged in a circle) of six leaves. Flowers are oxillary, solitary, up to one inch in diameter, with from four to ten calyx segments and petals and numerous stamens. The fruit is o two-celled capsule containing a number of roundish brown seeds. Bauera rubioides. (after the Rubia plant). A scrambling to upright- growing, somewhat hairy shrub with tough wiry stems from two to six feet long; the pink flowers, with numerous stamens, are carried on slender peduncles (stalks); the light green leaflets, about three-quarters of an inch in length, are lanceolate to oblong and usually serrated. The cpecies extends from Queensland to Tasmania, Victoria and South Australia. ~ Page Ji‘)i—\!ol.iz Bavera rubioides var. microphylla. (small). This low-growing shrub is similar to the species but all parts are much smaller. Bavera capitata. (having heads of flowers). This small diffuse shrub is very similar to B. rubioides var. microphylla in appearance, with numerous slender woody stems; the small, light, green, narrow leaflets are obtuse in chape with one lobe or tooth at each side. The flowers are almost sessile and sclitary in axils, but several pairs together at the end of the branches form litile flower heads. This species occurs in Queensland and New South Wales. Bavera sessiliflora. (flowers without stalks). An erect shrub, soft and widely branched from four to six feet in height. The leaflets are dark green, zntire, lanceolate and rather hairy. Flowers are sessile, axillary end crowded :losely on the stems; the petals are pink or violet tinged to magenta in colcur, with dark stamens. The species is confined to the Victorian Grampians, in moist sandy places. The descriptions may be summarised by the following key: (1) Flowers pedicellate Ovary superior, leaves mostly lanceolate and serrate: B. rubioides. Similar to above but smaller in all parts: B. rubioides var. microphylla. (2) Flowers sessiie Ovary superior, flowers terminal, feaves narrow and mostly three toothed: B. capitata. Ovary ha'f inferior, flcwers axillary and crowded closely on stems, stamens dark, leaflets entire: B. sessilluora. In their natural habitat the species occur in close-growing masses, usually in a south to south-east aspect in moist, cool, shaded to semi-shaded positions, although in some moist situations plants may be found growing in full sunlight. Various common names are given to the species, such as “River Rose”, “Dog Rose”, "Wire Scrub”, ‘Rose Heath” and "Showy Bauera”. The flowers vary in colour from pale pink, through deeper shades to bright magenta. PROPAGATION These species are readily raised from seed or propagated by cuttings. The small round seeds develop in small capsules and are best collected @@@ 14 @@@ Page 150—Vol. 2 Bauera rubioides _ AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—BAUERACEAE ~ Dec, 1921} Bauera rubloides var miorophg“a as the capsules turn brown and begin to open, usually from the end of November onwards, depending upon the flowering time. After drying for about a fortnight, the seeds are best sown when fresh into a box or other container, depending upon one’s requirements, using a free sandy bush soil. Cover the seeds to their depth with a similar type of soil and then keep moist in a shady position. To assist in maintaining moisture, cover with a sheet of glass, polythene or hessian. Germination begins in from three to four weeks when the cover is best removed. Seedlings may be transplanted when the second or third pair of leaves has formed or, if so desired, the Continued on page 167 @@@ 15 @@@ Dec., 1963 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Page 151—Vol. 2 GROWING THE COOKTOWN ORCHID by P. Fetherston Firstly, let me state quite definitely that | am no authority on the culture of the Cooktown orchid, but by trial and error over several years, have found one or two points which might save the newcomer some heart- aches and frustrations. Full credit though must go to Dr. Vote for any success I've enjoyed, as he was the true pioneer of ihe “hardwood” dendrobium culture in the Sydney area. Any would-be grower of these lovely plants can do no better than to consult his excellent article in the "Australian Orchid Review” of June 1956. There are several varieties of the “Cookie” and any Sydneysiders seeking plants would be advised to try to obtain a variety sold as “compactum” which seems much less prone to “bud-drop” than the type. Good work is being done in this direction by at least one commercial grower, Mr. Jones of “Limberlost”, Cairns, who has been hybridising from “compactum” with a view of thus assisting Southern growers. This plant loves and must have light; shady “ferneries” are definately out”. | have mine in an “open” glass house (i.e. glass on South, East and fence on the West, but open on the North, with approximately half the roof covered with fibreglass and the remainder with “Sarlon” shadecloth.) The plants hang high under the “Sarlon” during the growing season, and are moved under the fibeglass (with just a little less light) for the resting season. This resting period is absolutely essential. When the plants have completed flowering, watering is diminished, and then ceased completely entil the new growths have developed to at least 17 in length (these new leads are particularly prone to damage from premature watering). Thus, from June to possibly September, the plants may receive absolutely no water. When new growth is well under way, it becomes important to bring the plant forth once more into full light, and to commence an adequate feeding programme (note “adequate” NOT “excessive” . . . overdoing fertilizers is a sure way to murder). “Aquasol’” at the rate of one teaspoonful to the gallon applied forinightly, with fish emulsion the alternating weeks is the diet of my plants, but feeding must be in direct proportion with both light available and growth rate of the plant. As these plants are epiphytes and also have quite a “fine” root, rapid drainage will be seen to be essential, any stagnant water soon kills them. The smaller the container the better, a 2 (or at very most a 3”), pot will be quite large enough. The bottom of the pot must be opened out completely, as so far as | know there is no flowerpot of this size on the market possessing a sufficiently large drainage hole (but just how to remove the entire base from a 2" terracotta pot without in the process shattering the entire pot is some problem — | would appreciate suggestion!) At least 1/3rd of the pot is now filled with crocks placed “on edge” — again to assist aeration and drainage. The plant is now placed (staked if necessary) above these, potting firmly in chopped thoroughly washed (to remove any soil and fine particles) medium to coarse fibre. (I have recently tried a few pots planted in medium grade fir-bark, which is popular in America and Hawaii, and results seem very promising). Whatever medium is used, it must be one which will not deny the roots instantaneous drainage (this cannot be overstressed) and as much access 1" @@@ 16 @@@ Page 152—Vol. 2 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Dec., 1963 to the atmosphere as possible. Stagnant air (as stagnant water) is fatal io these plants, hence my placing mine high under the “sarlon” roof iowards the "“open” end of the house. Another method worthy of trial is to tie ihe plant to a suitable support, one of mine seems to be quite happy on an 18" length of old weathered 3 x 2 fencing rail. This has the advantage of providing 100% drainage and aeration, and so seems a successful solution. Now for that “bugbear” of all orchid lovers . . . Sydney's climate, especially our winter. | am quite satisfied the “cookie” can take it in it's stride, provided it (the plant) is blessed with a symsathetic but wie owner; however, the problem of “bud drop” is one I've never seen completely overcome here. My plants will grow well and provide a wonrde-ful array of sprays, but along will come a sudden cold “snap” and all | will have open will be but quite a small proportion of all the buds, the others having yellowed and dropped. Don’t mistake me, the plants are very much well worth growing just for those flowers which do open, but it is a frustrating thought to envisage just what a show of flowers “might have been.” In ih= winter months our night temperatures dive to the low 40’s and even into the upper 30’s. If the plants are kept in a light place, sheltered from undue aales, and kept dry, they will survive, nevertheless, when the nights pass below the 40’s, | like to bring mine into the house to hang in a North facing window. This is not such a revolutionary idea, being auite common procedure in America and having been practiced last century in many English homes. With a little care in arrangement, the plants can be ouite a deczoration, ond with an orchid-loving wife. but little persuasion is necessary. This procedure does assist the plants over the long bleak sodden periods Svdney seems to be getting as an annual event. So much for my experiences, what have other growers found? DENDROBIUM SUPERBIENS REICHB. F. by A. W. Dockrill This species almost certainly originoted as a natural hybrid D. bigibbum Lindl. x D. undulatum R. Br., in fact, garden hybrids of this cross have bzen raised which are almost indistinguishable from the naturally-occurring plant. D. goldie Reickle. f., Gard. chron. ser. ii, 9:652 (May 1878), D. bigibbum Lindl. var. venosum |. M. Bail., Dept. Agric. Bris. Bot. Bull 2:18 (1891) and D. bigibbum Lindl. var. georgei C. T. White, Proc. Roy. Soc. Qld. 47:32 (1936), are based on an introgressive hybrid series. DENDROBIUM SUPERBIENS REICHB. F. Gard Chren. Ser. ii, 6: 516 (1876); ET 9:652 (1878). Syn:- D. fitzgeraldii F. Muell., “Leader’’. Melbourne, Februrary, 1884; et Melbourne Chem. & Drug, June 1884. D. bigibbum Lindl. var. ablo-marginatum F. M. Bail, Dept. Agri. Brisbane, Bot. Bull. 2: 18 (1891), Non Linden D. bigibbum Lindl. var. superbiens (Reichb. F.) F. M. Bail., Syn. Qucensland. Flor: 267 (138L3) Pseudobulbs 30-60 x 1.6 — 2.2 cm, tapering towards the apex and to a less extent, towards the base, but swollen at the very base. Leaves 8-12, 5-14 x 3-6 cm, ovate, acute, sheathing. Racemes 25-40