'Australian Plants' Vol.2 No.18 March 1964 +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | The text in this file has been extracted from 'Australian Plants' Vol.2 No.18 March 1964. | | | | Please note that the file was compiled from a scan of the original document. As successful | | scanning is dependent on the quality of the original, there may be errors in the text where | | the scanning software was unable to recognise particular words. | | | | PLEASE USE THE FOLLOWING LINK TO VIEW THE ACTUAL, ACCURATELY FORMATTED | | JOURNAL, INCLUDING ILLUSTRATIONS AND PHOTOS: | | | | https://anpsa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/Australian-Plants/Australian-Plants-Vol2-18.pdf | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ PUBLISHED BY THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS IN 8000 COPIE; ustralian Plants PRICE: THREFE SHILLINGS Registered at G.P.O., Sydney, for transmission MARCH. 1964 Vol. 2, No. 18 by post as a periodical. Volume 2 will comprise issues, No. 1320 it GROW AUSTRALIAN ORCHIDS @@@ 2 @@@ Pag» 170—Vol. 2. AUSTRALIAN PLAAN'TSV—-ORC'VIIll):l('EAE‘ March, 1964 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN PLANTS FOR THE GARDEN — PART 1 by R. F. G. Swinbourne, Botany Section, Animal Industry Branch, Alice Springs, N.T. INTRODUCTION ' Alice Springs, being in a semi-arid zone, is a most suitable place for cultivation of native piants. The average annual rainfall is about ten inches, the summer being exiremely hot, with severe frosts in winter. A number of homes are built in areas where the soil is fairly saline, and only plants tolerant of this soil type will succeed. Native plants are adapted to these conditions thus allowing the enjoyment of a garden even though exotic plants may fail. As well as our climatic conditions and soils the native plants do not use near the amount of water that our exotic introduced species do, and in country that needs to conserve its water, this is a most important feature. This article deals with Central Australian plant species which are suitable for cultivation or are already incorporated into local gardens. EUCALYPTUS SPECIES Eucalyptus camaldulensis (River Red Gum), a tree regarded highly for its shade and the beauty of its trunk. It has been known to grow six feet in its first year of cultivation. Growing to 60 feet, having clusters of creamy flowers, and white trunk with markings of shades of brown, cream, blue, mauve, etc. make this a most attractive specimen. Eucalyptus intertexta (Gum Coolibah), a tree to 40 feet high with a trunk which is rough around the base up to about 10 feet and then smooth white or grey with some coloured markings, making it also an attractive specimen tree. Eucalyptus microtheca (Coolibah), a very attractive tree to 40 feet high, with rough grey bark on the lower part of the trunk and the upper limbs somewhat like Gum Coolibah. It would make a most attractive garden acquisition, especially for the garden with clayey soil. Eucalyptus papuana (Ghost Gum), a much sought-after tree of 50 feet, with a very upright white trunk, bright green foliage, but is an erratic seeder, and is definitely a proud specimen tree. Eucalyptus terminalis (Bloodwood), a cream flowering tree to 40 feet with grey tesselated bark, and after flowering has clusters of large gum-nuts and certainly is a good specimen tree. Eucalyptus gamophylla (Blue Mallee), a many-stemmed eucalypt with blue-green foliage, growing up to 12 feet, and bearing creamy flowers. This is a most attractive small tree, and can be used in wind-breaks, divides or a backing for shrub areas (Continued on page 202) EDITOR'S NOTE: This is portion of « series on wild flowers trom Central Australia. We are making a special effort to assist readers from the inland areas of our continent to grow wildflowers under their rigorous waterless conditions. Will readers from country arcas please send me seed from wildflowers in their area? COVER PLATE: The beautiful Diuris longifolia « native ferrestriag orchid. For furtner details refer to the next two articles. Blocks for this colour plate are by courtesy of the Dept. of Agriculture of Western Australia. THIS ISSUE: Features of this issue are articles on native orchids, Boronia, ‘Irees of Queensland, Melaleuca with a special tull colour supplement on Gompholobium, one of the yellow pea family. @@@ 3 @@@ March, 1964 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Page 171—Vol. 2. Growing Native Terrestrial Orchids by R. C. Nash Often | meet people who on finding out that | grow native terrestrial orchids say, “But dont you find them impossible to grow, | have ftried and they would never grow.” On further enquiry | find in most cases the poor plants have been subjected to ordinary garden culture or an attempt has been made to grow them in a glass house. In this article | hope to set out some of the basic requirements for the culture of native terrestrial orchids. Two of the most important things to consider are, firstly give the plants good drainage, whether they are grown in a tin, pot, rockery etc., secondly they do like shade from heavy sun light, especially the direct overhead light. Most people bring the plants home with a big clump of soil around the tuber and push this into the container (pot), the plant is hoped to grow in. In most cases this soil quickly becomes water logged with rain or when watered. Our native soils have never been disturbed by cultivation and have developed an established moisture ecology with the plants. As is commonly known cultivated soils saturate quicker than uncultivated soils. This pot of soil containing an orchid has lost its ability to rid itself of excessive water and saturates because of this transplantation. | have found it takes about three to four years for sandy soil in a pot to stabilize back to the more or less natural moisture ecology. When potting native terrestrial orchids use plenty of good washed clean course sand, with broken pot or gravel in the base of the pot, if plants are from limestone soils, broken limestone. The easiest way to get humus into this pot, is to use sawdust, preferably from a native plant. Try to use the plant types the orchids were growing by. Mix sawdust with sand accordingly to the soils the orchids have been taken from, low sawdust content for sandy soils and more sawdust for heavier soils. Leave a layer of pure sawdust on top of pot, this assists water assimilation and helps to stop dry out. The sawdust used should have started to break down, to start this, mix a little sand with sawdust, keep damp and put a little urea with damping water occasionally. In preparing the orchid for planting, carefully remove as much of the native soil as is possible, taking care not to knock the tuber off. Make a drill hole in the compost in the pot deep enough to take the plant and fill lightly with compost, tap pot gently to settle and water. In selecting the site for these potted plants in the garden take into account the location from where they collected. Good sites are well sheltered areas with direct morning or late afternoon sunlight or full indirect sunlight as would be found against a south facing wall or fence. Keep in mind when choosing a position in the garden the heat of summer. In summer when plants are dormant, do not water and allow pots to dry out again, then water again, it is best to move them to a cooler more shady position. Try to keep plants green as long as possible as summer comes on, even if they have to be hand watered. When watering them, mains water may be used providing it is not too brackish or hard, other wise use rain water. For improved growth and health a little superphosphate once a year and a spray of urea once a month in the growing season are beneficial. @@@ 4 @@@ Page 172- Vol. 2. AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE o Mar(‘h.il.‘)!;-l Watch must be kept for Aphids, Mites and Thrip, these deform the flowers and stems and cause the leaves to rot. Spray with weak solution of chloride of lime to kill leaf rot. Snails, slugs and grubs will cause severe damage to plants if let go unchecked. Birds may sometimes eat the buds or dig up the tubers when scraiching for worms. Try to keep pots away from cats, dogs, and children. When starting out to grow native terrestrial orchids select the forme that grow in colonies as these will respond quicker, leave most of the Caladenia (spiders), Glossodia and similar types to last as the tubers drop from these very easily. Collect plants only from land being cleared or about to be cleared. Excessive collecting will denude an area of its native orchids quicker than excessive picking. It is better not to collect and have the beauty of future years than to collect and fail in the attempt to grow these exotic plants. The Commoner Diuris in Australia by Leo Cady The genus Diuris or “Double-tails” is wholly a spring or summer flower- ing orchid, found in all states of Australia, with only one extra Australian species (D. Fryana Ridl. from Java). The most prevalent colour in the genus is yellow of varying shades but white, mauve, browns and variegated types are to be found. N.S.W. appears to be the “Home” of this genus as upwards of 30 species have been recorded of the 40 odd named. The concentration of species in N.S.W. is on the western side of the dividing range, where a considerable amount of natural hybridizing has occurred, this has added much to the confusion of identifying the species with real certainty. CULTURE GROWING THE ORCHIDS DIURIS The culture of the Diuris is still in its infancy but the study group has found the normal compost for ground orchids (50% black sand, 40% peat moss with 10% leaf mould and crushed charcoal) appears to do the job. The compost should be kept moist during the growing season and allowed to dry out during doimancy (this appears to stop tuber rot) the drying out of the compost does not harm the tubers, except that they shrivel somewhat; but they plump out when the water is again given after the appearance of the new shoot above the ground. DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COMMONER SPECIES | D. punctata Sm. "Purplie Double-tail”’ This species, perhaps the choicest of all the genus, is an extremely varied plant in size, colour, and shape; a typical plant is described below. A robust or slender plant. Leaves usually 2 flowers to 10 fragrant at times, lilac-purple-reddish and rarely white or yellow. Lateral sepals to 6 cm. long, narrow. Dorsal sepals ovate to 16 mm. long. Petals as long or longer than the dorsal sepal clawed. Labellum 3 lobed midlobe broadly ovate with 2 calli ridges at the base, the lateral lobes to half as long as the midlobe, oblong falcate. Distribution: Queensland, N.S.W., Victoria and South Australia. Flowers: August-December. @@@ 5 @@@ March, 1964 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE Page 173 Vol 9 DIURIS Spp. KEY TO PLATE A, Do punctata, nataral size 10 scale. F. D. swlphurca. natural size 1o scale. B. D. longifolic, natural size 1o scale G. D. aurea, natural size to scale . Do omienlata, natural size too scale. H. D. filijolia. natural size to scale. D. D. pulacinla, natural size to Scale . D. pedunculata. natural size to scale. E. D palustrus, natural size to scale. . C. NASH vreports from South Australia Diuris maculata, blooms in September. Habitwr open shaded areas in the damper parts of the State being quite common in some areas. Keep pots well drained and in an o open position and keep cool in suminer. Break up into extra pots in preference tq putiing nre a larger one @@@ 6 @@@ Puge 174—l‘)] 2 .»lr(tSTRAIAl;L\'V VI"I:V.'L\’TS ~ORCHIDACEAE March, 1964 2. D. longifolia R. Br. “Wallflower Double-tail’”’ (colour plate, front cover A cosmopolitan species, and as such it is most variable, a robust plant to 46 cm. tall. Leaves 2-3. Flowers to 6, brown and yellow or rarely wholly yellow, florets often extremely large. Dorsal sepal shorier than the petals semicircular. Lateral sepals longer than petals, sometimes crossad. Petals broadly ovate or oblong, prominenily clawed. Labellum 3 lobed, all lcbes often as long as one another, lamina keeled, but no calli ridges. Distribution: All States except Queensland. Flowering: O