'Australian Plants' Vol.3 No.22 March 1965 +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | The text in this file has been extracted from 'Australian Plants' Vol.3 No.22 March 1965. | | | | Please note that the file was compiled from a scan of the original document. As successful | | scanning is dependent on the quality of the original, there may be errors in the text where | | the scanning software was unable to recognise particular words. | | | | PLEASE USE THE FOLLOWING LINK TO VIEW THE ACTUAL, ACCURATELY FORMATTED | | JOURNAL, INCLUDING ILLUSTRATIONS AND PHOTOS: | | | | https://anpsa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/Australian-Plants/Australian-Plants-Vol3-22.pdf | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ B L T N O N (T SN R T DROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANT S IN e ey LS S S U | Suaibaey f PR ST NARCHE, 10 Vsl & 9 wligy 4 2 Dy GARDEN A WILDFLOWER e isad e § P, clinity citral ] it D vrandlie belobe Backerowd 1 v g e FEES S N PR R P Poaectierio HOW 10 MAKE A WILDFLOWER GARDEN AND WHAT 1O PLANI FLANNEL FLOWERS Page 63 HOW 10 GROW TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS, GREENHOODS |1+ @@@ 2 @@@ Page Hb- Vol 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS THIS ISSUE March, 1935 This Issue . . . Growing Wildflowers The primary aim of this publication is to provide simple instructions on the growing of Australian wildflowers in home gardens. We vary our style in this issue for those who wish to establish:- A WILDFLOWER GARDEN (51)—How to establish a wildflower garden for the: SHOWY WILDFLOWERS (55)—Mostly small plants chosen for display which includes: WESTERN AUSTRALIAN WILD FLOWERS (60)—With special reference to Beauforiia. ISOPOGON & PETROPHILA (62)—Part 1 of a series introducing three species for the garden. FLANNEL FLOWERS—THE GENUS ACTINOTUS (63)—A comprehensive article of special interest. TASMANIAN NOTHOFAGUS (66)—Part 1 of a series on Tasmanian plants for the garden. WILDFLOWERS FROM SEED (67)—A challenge and more methods of competent propagators. WATTLES—Their Propagation (69) and Cultivation (70). NATIVE ORCHIDS, TERRESTRIAL—Methods of Growing (72), Pollination (73), and Seed Collection (75). THE GREENHOOD ORCHIDS, Pterostylis—Autumn flowering (75), of South Australia (79) of Tasmania (81). WILDFLOWERS OF CENTRAL AUSTRALIA (84)—Part 1 of a series with mention of showy plants for dry areas. BOTANY—The Plant Body Part 2 (89)—An excellent series on plant botany for beginners. EUCALYPTS—Quick results for New Gardens (95). NEXT ISSUE . . . Rock Gardens, Miniature Gardens, Pileanthus. Please send notes. OUR PUBLICATIONS . . . AVAILABLE FROM EDITOR BY MAIL ONLY 860 Henry Lawson Drive, Picnic Point, N.SW. Please be patient for ua reply. AUSTRALIAN PLANTS Price 3 The annual subscription of 12/- includes postuge of the next 4 issues to vour home. Past desves 18 & 18200 are available as individual copies at 4. plus 5d. postage. Some issues Y417 are out of print and are available only in the bound volume. AUSTRALIAN PLANTS Volumes 1 & 2 : Price ¢3/-/- cach plus 2 postage Volume No. 1 comprises issues 1-12. We ure now on our last few hundred. It will shortly be a rare out of print book ot great value. 350 pages, 75 sketches and 45 full colour plates. Volume 2 comprises issues 13-200 Delays nave deferred its availability until late April, 1965, Bound in the same volume will be the publicuation Descriptive Catalogue or West Australwn Plants. see below, giving this volume its exceptional value, in fact a must tor every reader. These volumes are beautifully presented in gold lettered, hard covers and include The Language of Botany. see below DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF WEST AUSTRALIAN PLANTS Price 120 plus 16 post & pack This book lists all the witdflowers indivenous to Western Australin, viving tor each snecies, kind of plant. general «ize, Hower colour, tlowering months, localities of occurrence an o Growine. W.A. Plants™. “"Recommended Subi for the Beginner™, “Propagation’. etc. It is fantastic value. Available in late April, 1965, THI LANGUAGE OF BOTANY . . . . . Price 4. plus 5d. postage This 60 page booklet detines thonsands of botanical terms tor reference by the amateur or student botanist. Origipally intended for our laymen readers, it is now accepted ds 4 reference book tor University Students BINDKRS . . . . Price 122 nlus 1 nostage For fling 1ssues ot Australian Plants plastic covered stitt cover gold lettered @@@ 3 @@@ Murch, 1964 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS - CULTIVATION Puge 51 Vol b A WILDFLOWER GARDEN by E. M. M. BODDY SOIL TREATMENT FOR THE AVERAGE GARDENS The majority of our native trees and the larger shrubs will thrive under average soil conditions where drainage is reasonably good, this would include the Acacias, Eucalypts, Angophoras, Casuarinas, Grevilleas, Kunzeas, Melaleucas, Callistemons, Banksias, Hakeas etc. There will be exceptions within the various species which is understandable owing to the size of the Continent, with its range of soil and climatic conditions and varieties of many species of plant life distributed in each State. The root systems of the trees and larger shrubs will penetrate stiff soils into clay where they will thrive and become firmly established, but many of the smaller shrubs and plants are not so easily established unless the soil and physical conditions are similar to their native habitat. Many of the densely populated areas of early settlements have followed agriculture where the soil has been selected as being heavy and more suited to farming than much of the light sandy soils where many of our choice plants are found. In consequence, many city and town collectors of small and colcurful native plants are looking for means whereby they can build up gardens to make the conditions more suitable. With the advent of trace elements, agriculture is being extended into light scrub country which will be ideal for the introduction of choice plants. Gardeners in many parts of the Victorian Mallee have been enjoying this advantage for a long time. The successful growing of the Leschenaultias and many of our small plants is difficult in stiff soils and it is recommended that native plant collectors make a study of soil requirements before purchasing some of the rare species and variety of native plant life. An inspection of areas where small native plants occur naturally and a duplication of these conditions by artificicl means may be necessary in many gardens. Areas for inspection would be comparable to portions of the New South Wales Coast, portions of Victorian Mallee and Mornington Peninsula, the Brisbane Ranges adjacent Geelong, the 90 mile and Little Deserts, portions of the North East Coast of Tasmania, the Victorian Grampians, portions of the Victorian Wimmera, the many situations in Western Austraiia and Eyre Peninsula South Australia. In these situations the soil will be light and friable, well drained, and covered with natural mulch and humus from falling leaves and twigs over the ages. The soil will remain ’ g)/) very apt. It is known as “tanglefoot.” The roots and < =) lower branches become tangled and gnarled as \( they creep over boulders and logs. It grows on 3 high exposed ridges of the mountains, down to the / upper limits of the rain-forests; on boulder-fields (characteristic of Tasmanian dolerite mountains) or on fairly deep soil in gullies and hollows. It tolerates a neutral or fairly acid soil, and a rainfall varying from 50” to 100" p.a. but likes to be well drained. Nothofagus gunni Hook.—Fagaceae, a spread- ing, much branched shrub or small tree, the branches often somewhat tangled with each other, and forming compact shapes. The leaves are from '4” to 1" long and broadly ovate or nearly orbicular in outline, the upper surface is deeply impressed with the diverging veins. They are obtuse at the apex, and have very short petioles, they occur alternately along the branches. The flowers are very inconspicuous, unisexual, and occur singly in the axis of the upper leaves; the fruiting is coarsely tuberculate and contains three flat, winged seeds. Propagation—Perhaps the easiest method is from seeds, these fall from the capsules in January or February. They germinate quite readily if sown soon after this, in a simple mixture of '2 fine sand and '2 well shredded peat moss (by quantity). Germination takes from six to eight weeks, and during this time, and until the young seedlings have gained their secondary leaves, they should be kept in cool, shaded, moist conditions. Once the secondary leaves have appeared, the seedlings may be transplanted into pots or straight into the ground. The best soil is one composed of equal parts of half decayed leaves and similar compost, gravel, coarse sand, and any light textured, slightly acid soil. The rather slow growth of this plant makes it most suitable for bonsai or similar miniaturising techniques and treated as such makes an extremely attractive specimen. If however, it is desired to plant it in a garden, a cool moist position is favoured with rocky soil for drainage and support of its root-system, which though not extensive in a single plant, likes to grow where it can “feel the rocks.” Ample water should be provided during the summer months. In winter very little care is needed as the plant is then dormant. No fertilizers or manures are necessary. Seed is available free of charge by sending a stamp addressed envelope to the Editor. @@@ 19 @@@ March, 1965 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS PROIAGATION Page 67 Vol. 3 WILDFLOWERS FROM SEED Part .2 A review by the Editor. Part 1 in the No. 15 issue gave details of how the most experienced amateur can grow about 80V, of our wildflowers from seed. Many of the remaining 20", have frustrated even the most cxperienced propagator and a review of the fundamental requirements appears essential. My thoughts on the matter are given to evoke, not only the criticism I will no doubt receive, but also to encourage or possibly to shame a few readers into experiments in this problem. My ditlicult plants are Verticordia Calytrir, Pimelea. Boronia. Eriostemon and FEpacridaceae. Any seed with o woolly or water resistent coat gives difficulty. A flower exists to produce seed. Having accomplished this task it dies leaving a dormant living organism to withstand adverse conditions and to ensure survival of the species when suitable conditions occur. Structually the seed is a resting embryo plant which is surrounded by a seed coat (testa). There may be additional tissues principally for food storage. The embryo has several parts, the radicle or young root, the plumule or young shoot and one or two cotyledons or modified leaves. Provided the embryo is living and mature, our problem is to awaken it and induce it to grow. To do this it must receive the correct conditions of water, temperature, light and air. Nature has many ways of delaying the germination of a seed until conditions are most suitable to its survival. As we want good germination under artificial conditions we must (a) frustrate all these obstacles imposed by nature, and (b) determine the correct con- ditions for the development of the seed. (1) Seed Viability. Is the seed good. ““alive’, seed to start with? This obvious factor is the cause of many disappointing results. Experiments and research into the usual percentage of poor seed and methods of determining this factor are essential. Those methods of seed treatment that involve removal of the seed outer coat or testa give a clear indication of this. Out of a whole packet of Pimelea seed I got only two good ones to plant. How long will seed remain viable or fresh? Seed of many species of plant will last hundreds of years whereas others last as little as a week. If the outer seed coat is trustrated I consider that all seed may be treated alike and planted as soon as the season is right. Is the seed mature? Sometimes the embryo is not completely formed or ripened at the time it is shed from the plant, and the embryo continues to develop until tic correct time for germination. Fxperiments are essential to determine this factor for our difficult natives. Is it necessary for seed to lie on the ground under the bush to mature? Striatification is the term applied to the process of “‘maturing’ the seed artificially. The seed is stored for a period in a refrigerator in one method. 1T have not tfound a proven explanation as to the reason for this or its effect on the seed. It no doubt oricinated from experience by propagators in countries with severe winters, but is it reasonable to bother with this for natives in our climate? Does such treatment etfect the embryo or the seed coat? If the latter, removal of the seed coat should frustrate this safeguard of nature. (a) Frustrating Nature’s Obstacles Nature’s armour is usually the seed coat. Where this coat is very hard it is often sufficient to soften it by immersion in boiling water, or making a hole in it by nicking or filing, to allow water to enter. An early issue described a method of chemical attack on the coat and another method is given by J. Howard in this issue. He also describes a methcd of completely removing the seed coat physically by peeling, that has been most successful with seed of Grevillea. For difficult seed such as Verticordia, Calytrix, Ptilotis, etc., experiments along these lines appear to offer the best prospects of success. A further development of this method is described by Mrs. H. L. Cole in this issue. (b) Conditions for Germination A simple aseptic method of seed germination has been described by H. Boyd in previous issues. Essentially this is sowing the seed on an almost sterile medium such as vermiculite, in a clean crocked pot which is placed on a bench to receive full sunlight. It is a simple method not requiring any special facilities and within the ability of the rankest amateur gardener. @@@ 20 @@@ Piage nd Vol 3 AUNTRALIAN PLANTS PROFAGATION Nareh, 1965 This method is again described by I. G. Holliday in this issue, the principal variation being the covering of the seed with porous gravel to conserve water from evaporation and to hold the seed and vermiculite in place. Under these conditions of outdoor propagation, temperature and light are regulated to a degree, as they are in nature, by change in the seasons. Best results appear to come from early spring planting although many propagators prefer early summer or early autumn planting. Research indicates that the period of darkness (i.e. length of night) has a significant effect regulating the time of germination in nature. Readers could experiment using this method wtih seed taken from the same batch, but planted at different times of the year and with different seed coat treatment. The use of germination stimulants should be tried on the difficult species. Such stimulants are potassium nitrate and thiourea, gibberellic acid and kinetin. (2) Treatment of Harsh Coated Seed by J. S. Howard I have tried a version of treating the skins of Kennedya beckiana seeds and with very good results. Firstly, | soaked the seeds in neat commercial hypochorite bleach (White King) for two hours, then removed, rinsed and treated with boiling water, twice for good luck. With a day of soaking in between, 2-3 weeks after sowing on top of “perlite’” (a sterile media) n small pots, most of the seeds were swollen with splits visible in the seed cases. The white seed was visible inside and some were starting to shoot. Within a month of sowing, most of the seeds were shooting, which is a much better result than obtained in previous sowings of Kennedya seeds of several species which were treated with boiling water only. These seeds took a good deal longer to germinate. Lditor's Note: T Issue Noo 20 Mr H. Boyvd deseribed i detand, o method ot treatment ol seed with Caleium hypochlorite. The Kennedya sced used above, obviously has a very hard coat. Other seed may be damaged by such treatment, but Mr. Boyd's method s subject to fine control if carefully observed Supporters for the mechanical damage method to the seed coat such as nicking or filing o nole in the hard seed coat will no doubt mmp moand advise Mro Howiard he could get the same result with less eftort nsing their method. They also cliaine that chemical or boiling witer treatment ot the sced coat destroys any friendly mechanism that may be attached 1o the seed coat ta o assist the plant o become established It has been proved that somie seed coats contain o chemical that actually retards germination antil it is leached out but 1T have not vet scen evidenee theo a friendly organism does really exist 1o produce the reverse result in some cases Whao will buy into this argunient? One advantage of Mr. Boyd’s method is that 1t can be used on very fine seed. seed too tine 1o be held or have its coat damaged by mechanical means 3. Removal of Seed Testa (Coat) by Mrs. H. L. Cole, Nedlands, West Australia-— Germination of W.A. Grevilleas. I have been trying the method of germination recommended by J. S. Howard in “Australian Plants Journal” Vol. 2, No. 15 on some of the West Australian Grevilleas. (The seed coat is removed from the seed after soaking in water, by careful manipulation of a scalpel or razor blade). It has proved to be a quick method with the species, G. candicans, G. juncifolia, G. leucopteris and G. excelsior. After peeling the testa from the seed, | place the seeds in small nlastic bags which have been wetted inside with boiled water. The seeds and bags are then placed so that the seeds are kept vertical with the growing point downwards. The radicle then grows straight downwards, and when it is 35 inch long and some root hairs have formed, it is placed in a slit made in a pot of soil. The cotyledons are placed above the soil surface, and soon open up and become green. Until germination takes place the plastic bags are kept in the dark, and a further addition of water may be necessary, but all excess should be drained off. The more fleshy seeds such as G. candicans and @@@ 21 @@@ March, 1965 AVSTRALIAN PLANTS PROFAGATION Page 69 Vol 3 G. leucopteris are best started in a cotton wool sandwich until the radicle starts to grow. For the successful germination of G. petrophiloides | have used a different method. The testa is loosened but left on the seed except for removing a small portion at the growing (pointed) end which allows for observation. The seed is placed vertically in a layer of moist vermiculite and inspected after a week for root growth. When a root of 'i-3s inches has formed the seed is inserted into soil. SEED GERMINATION- -My method by I. G. HOLLIDAY, Adelaide, S.A.- Use a terra cotta pot, no larger than 4 to 5 ins. and fill with Vermiculite. Thoroughly wet and squeeze down in the pot, then top up with more Verm. and wet again. The Verm. medium should be dense enough once wet to pretty well maintain its level in the pot, otherwise seeds tend to wash well down. Once this is established | carefully firm the seeds in the top surface of the Verm. and cover with a light coating of clean porous gravel (one-eighth of an inch and less) screenings. The pots are placed on a covered terrace facing north where they receive some morning sun and daylight throughout the day. Verm. retains moisture so well that often germination occurs without watering being necessary, depending on weather conditions. In any case, an examination every two to three days determines whether | water or not. Watering is done by immersing the whole pot in a bucket of water. Warmth is certainly necessary. | find October-November good months for seed sowing. Germination is poor once the weather turns cold. Regarding the transplanting of seedlings, | have never liked the method of pricking out young soft seedlings. | grow them on until thoroughly hardened, sometimes 3 to 4 inches high but usually less and then shake all the roots free of soil and transplant individually into a permanent container, usually a tin containing good potting soil. | always wait for a cold wet spell to do this and stand the plants out in the rain. | think all amateurs and professionals alike have batches which fail when transplanted usunllv due te some soil fungus or such like which will cause the plants to fail ot certain times and not others. ACACIA FROM SEED by W. G. TUCKER Many methods are used for the germinating of Camellia seeds, but a method used by myself and other members of the Australian Camellia Research Society is to mix a number of seeds with damp peat moss and put them into a glass jar. (I use about 12 seeds to the average size pickle jar— the peat moss is kept just moist and | keep the jars in the kitchen where a fairly even temperature is maintained). The seeds begin to sprout in about ien days——some of course take longer. When the tap-roots are about 1”7 to 12" long, the seeds are picked out of the moss and planted in individual flower pots or tins, and grown on in larger pots or tins as they make growth. | myself pinch off the tip of the taproot to encourage root branching as 907 cof the seedlings will remain in pots for about 7 years — most of them are later used for grafting as the chances of growing an outstanding Camellia variety from seed are slim. @@@ 22 @@@ Page 70 Vol 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS MIMOSEACEAE March, 1965 Camellia seeds like seeds of many of our natives, including acacias, are hard-shelled and when reading the difficulties experienced in our Acacia Group Newsletter, | thought | would use the same method on acacia seeds. On Boxing Day, 26/12/62, | harvested 48 seeds from my Acacia Deanii (being the only wattle of those | am growing which set seed) and planted them in moist peat as explained above. By the following Tuesday— New Year’s Day, 12 of the seeds had germinated and by Saturday, 5th January, 1963, every one of the 48 seeds had germinated. As | was proceeding on my annual holidays on this day | did not bother to plant the seeds out into individual pots, but from observation of the very quick growth which took place, would think the seeds should be examined each day and as they germinate, be placed in tins or pots for growing on. It is interesting to note that Thistle Harris in her book “Australian Plants for the Garden” recommends a similar method at Page 47 where she says, “A simple and reliable method of germinating seeds is that of placing them in a box containing damp sawdust covered with a damp cornsack. The box may be placed either indoors or in a shaded part of the ground . . . etc.” WATTLE IN THE GARDEN This article by A. C. Keane is reprinted from the Acacia Study Section newsletter where it was headed "The Cultivation of Wattles with Special Reference to Pruning” Acacia require attention particularly in their first two years when it is often difficult to give certain varieties a good start. Some claim that short stumpy plants—two to three inches—do best. It is said they catch up with and even pass older or better grown specimens in a year or so. This is quite possible but there is a big if—if they survive their first year. My experience is that the smaller plants are a gamble and | usually lose about 25¢i. With better grown specimens, 5 to 9 inches, | have had more satistactory results. We could in this regard, take a deal of notice of the Government Nurseries. If you purchase from one of these you will note most are 5 inches or higher; rarely is anything under 5 inches sold and these experts must have their very good reasons for this. | therefore, recommend the purchase of plants at least 5 inches high, longer if possible. When to plant? Most recommend Autumn. This could be so for light soils but in heavy wet soils one finds the Spring much better, provided water is available during the coming Summer. Autumn planting it followed by heavy rains often results in the plants being swamped. Apropos of “attention”, | am aware there are two schools of thought in this regard. Some say treat them rough as in the bush; others suggest care in their early days. We can only find out by trying both methods. Either way our object is to improve the bush type specimens to fit into average gardens both large and small. For apart from the comparatively few nursery specimens, wattles are known only as plants growing in the bush, long and stringy, reaching for the sky where is the light and heat essential for their survival. Beautiful for a brief few weeks each vyear and afterwards dull and often times disease ridden, not worthy of even a passing interest. To complete the picture, if near the road, where most @@@ 23 @@@ March, 1965 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS MIMOSEACEAE Page 71 Vol 3 see them, covered with dust. tl is natural that little or no interest is taken by gardeners in the second largest and most attractive family of native trees. Gardeners object that acacias are short lived and therefore, not worth the trouble, and this indeed, seems to be the main reason for their lack of popularity. But note this applies to a number of members of most genera. | agree it applies to some of the very rapid acacia growers. It is nature’s method to have slow growers like a long time and vice versa. But many wattles do live a long time, some a very long time indeed. Whichever school of thought you belong to it seems reasonable to believe that bush plants must, for garden use, firstly be made shapely. Secondly, they must be treated to flower to their fullest extent. Thirdly, they must be made to set seed in quantity, and finally, they should be able to withstand weather conditions such as wind, frost and excessive moisture. The first three conditions can be largely fulfilled by suitable pruning. The common acacia A. baileyana is an outstanding example of what can be achieved by this type of attention. Those seen in the open country are long and streaky, usually with no branches for the first 6 to 8 feet, the top only has reasonable foliage, and it is not worthwhile except when in flower. Try cutting according to a system and you have a shapely specimen covered in foliage almcst to the ground and eyetaking even in the non flowering time. In short, a small tree barely resembling the well known open type. Almost in fact, a new type of Cootamundra. On a par with this one, given the same treatment, is A. pycnantha (Golden Wattle) which, covered with branches and leaves to near ground level is, in appearance, only a relation of the usually seen type. Such results can be achieved for taller wattles by commencing pruning after the first year’s growth. They will be about 2 to 3 feet high and the top 6 to 8 inches of the main branch should be nipped off. Next year they will be 6 to 8 feet high and at least 2 feet of the main branch shculd be removed and the laterals shortened to shape. At the end cf the third season a good specimen will be 15 feet high and at least 4 feet of the main branches should be lopped, and you can cut even harder in specimens of this type which thrive on hard pruning. After this they recuire no further attention as they are shapely trees and only occasional removal of unsightly trailers is necessary. Most of the tree varieties (15 feet and over) of Acacia, can be hard pruned as above. Examples are A. melanoxylon, A. pruinosa, A. pravissima, A. dealbata, A. mearnsii (formerly A. mollissima), A. terminalis (formerly A. elata), A. implexa, A. prominens and A. normalis. Watch this latter one and keep it cut back even until it has finished its fourth year. This is a lovely specimen and often disappoints by blowing over when just reaching its prime. It is a surface rooter and stands wind badly. From early days it should be staked to a long piece of iron piping. Wooden stakes are useless when the tree grows to any size. Editor's Note: For those readers who wish to join in the work of the Acacia Study Section send a stamped addressed envelope to the Editor. We shall have a series of articles on “Dwart or Small Acacia for the Garden.” Please send any notes you can on species vou know. See the Acacia on the tront cover. This should change view ideas of readers on e value of ornamental dwart Acacia @@@ 24 @@@ Page 72 Vol 3 CSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHTDACE A K Mireh, 1965 GROWING TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS by R. C. NASH Mr Nuash i~ deader ol the Native Orehd Study Section Terrestrials, and will - welcome comments of support trom readers in o his o guest to determine how to grow all our native orchids. The following description is based on his experience with orchids of South Australia AREA A Broken pot limestone pieces and I ¥ I8 Sand. coarse or line, washed, must not hold large amounts of water or be capahle of staving damp (i Sand - sawdust mixture D Sawdust top band P A\pp docatione of tabers Potting Mixtures:—— The following four methods have proved successful 1. Pterostylis curta, P. pedunculata, P. cuculata. Areas B & C to be pro- portioned 20/30"( sand, 70/80¢ sawdust. P. nutans prefers this method also but with more shade. 2. Pterostylis rcbusta, P. alata, Acianthus exsertus, A. reniformis, Diuris maculata, D. palustris. Areas B 70/80¢( sand, 20/30¢/ sawdust, C 50% each sand and sawdust. Diuris brevifolia prefers this treatment also but must be kept damper in early summer. Corybas dilatatus and C. diemenicus also like this treatment if the pots are kept in a well shaded cool damp location. Caladen:a latifolia. Area B 1007 sand, C 80, sand, 209 sawdust. 4. Pterostylis barbata, P. mutica, P. vittata, P. cycnocephala, P. pusilla, P. longifolia. Area B & C good washed sand, allow sawdust on top to rot down into sand, replenish every 3 years only. Caladenia cardiochila and C. filamentosa var. fentaculata prefer this No. 4 mixture but should be planted in a cluster. « During each summer remove about '2 inch of top soil from pots and fill to top with new sawdust. | use fresh dry sawdust that is about 3 years old from Eucalyptus camaldulensis, before it is used | damp it down well. | have used sawdust from other Eucalypts. Spray every 3/4 weeks with Urea and apply super phosphate lightly once a year. Spray to control mites, thrip, aphid, snails, etc. Dusting and bait setting can also be used. If rot sets in on leaves spray with a weak solution of chloride of lime. Watering of plants—allow as much natural rain to reach plants as possible, in a dry winter it is necessary to hand water if pots become dry. A little water in summer is helpful with discretion. When collecting plants | remove all the soil except for the little that clings to the plants. Correct drainage is very important. Keep all weeds down in pots, some small native plants could become pests, moss must be removed each summer. A method | have used to help overcome dryout in summer and it helps drainage in winter too is, lay down a concrete slab large enough in area to accommodate the number of pots to be used (this slab must have sides around it). Place on top of slab a one inch layer of '2 inch metal (gravel), rlace pots on top of metal, spaced about 3 inches apart. Fill the spaces between pots with clean sand to just below the ridge of pots. @@@ 25 @@@ Muarch, 1965 AUSTRALIAN FLANTS ORCHIDACEALE Page 73 Vol 3 ORCHID POLLINATION by D. L. Jones Pollination of the orchid family basically follows the pattern of other families of flowering plants. However, certain structures and modifications found in the flowers of crchids may confuse beginners and it is hoped that this article may help to remove some doubts. Pollination in all forms consists of the transference of the male gametes or pollen grains onto the receptive stigma or female organ of the flowers. Subsequent growth of the pollen grains brings about fertiization and the formation of seed. Thus the sexual parts of the flower are divided — on one side we have the male organs, the stamens, producing pollen and on the other we have the stigma of the female organs for receiving the pollen. However, in orchids the set-up is different and we have the one single unit nown as the column, containing both male and female organs. The organs are not similar in appearance to those found on other flowers, but are greatly modified and are found on separate parts of the fleshy column, which is believed to be an extension of the axis of the plants above the ovary. A further modification of the pollinating devices is the clumping together of the pollen grains into aggregate units known as pollinia. There are generally two or four such masses, the individual pollen grains being joined by elastic threads. Apparently they are necessary to ensure adequate fertilization of the innumerable ovules or seeds found in the seed capsule. The column can be readily picked out in most orchid flowers. It is a sturdy generally curved fleshy structure found at the base of the dorsal sepal. In front of it and often in close association with it is the labellum or lip of the flower. On the underside of the curve generally about midway along the column and always closest to the lip is a broad generally sunken stick area. This is the stigma and the stickiness is for the retention cf the pollinia. At the tip of the column there will be seen a small cap 0 COIU"\H M abellum— " ) . c ‘(i”ll)l ) Rostellum Rot;LqHun\ Ant_her Ot 191G Rostellum 7/ e ?Stiglna Ovar ; / / ,"'/ 37, LCalurms / J . R Pteroctyhs //,\l{/ : Ptm-outglus i terostyl e : > V,/ Eriochilus ; nutans \ concimna g o M . (Column side view\; ’\’—[ . : (COI e \ / dilatatus ( side vicw) \ / (Frontview\ \(:()II‘HH) winges & @@@ 26 @@@ Page 74—Vol. 3 - AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE March, 1965 of varying shape and size. This is removable and is known as the rostellum. It contains the pollinia which may or may not adhere to it. Upon removal of this cap the pollinia can be easily obtained. With some orchids the column may not be obvious being enclosed by certain floral parts, e.g. Pterostylis, Cryptostylis. To get at it, these floral parts may have to be removed and this should be carried out carefully so as not to damage the sexual parts of the flowers. The columns of some particular species may contain additional structures not present in all orchids but the basic structure will be there and the position of the various organs can be readily determined. A good example of this is the wings surrounding the stigma on the column of the greenhood genus Pterostylis. Before attempting orchid pollination you shoula tamiliarize yourself thoroughly with the orchid parts. Once this is done it can be seen that the procedure is fairly simple. The only equipment | use is a petre dish — a clean glass saucer will do — and a dissecting needle, which is simply a needle mounted in a light wooden handle. It is most convenient and quick if the required pollinia are obtained first in the saucer and then these are placed onto the stigmas. The pollinia are picked up by means of the tip of the needle. Lick the tip of the needle or otherwise wet it and lightly lift the rostellum. The pollinia should be visible and they can be easily picked up with the wet point of the needle. The saucer should be close to the flower as sometimes the rostellum containing the pollen masses may fall right off. The easiest way to collect these types is to gather the rostellum and all and remove the pollinia later. After a bit of practice you become very adept and experience little difficulty. The pollinia are applied to the stigma with the point of the needle and they should stick if the stigmas are receptive. One per stigma will give satisfactory results but more can be applied for surety if available. A metal label containing the nature of the cross should now be tied to the flower — don't rely on memory. On the crosses that have taken the flowers will wither guickly but the ovary below them will remain green and begin to swell. If growing conditions are kept regular the ovary will continue to swell and change colour. Finally, when mature, small slits will show along its length and the see will begin to shed. If possible the capsules should be harvested just before this stage is reached — the best criterion here is experience. The seed is then stored dry in a paper envelope. lts viability will be greatest in the early years ensuing from its harvest. Collecting Native Orchid Seed by R. C. NASH Select good healthy plants to collect seed from. It is best to pollinate the flowers by hand, using a pencil to pick out the pollen from the flower. This flower generally will be a ycunger one, as the pollen will most likely be ripe before the stigma is ripe in any one flower. Put the pollen into a flower a few days older than the flower it was taken from (one that has been open longer). The pollen is placed on the stigma and gently rubbed over the stigma. If pollinization is left to insects hybridization may result. After the flowers have been fertilized, mark them with o small strip of white paper or cloth, putting the name of the plant onto the material. | use @@@ 27 @@@ Murch., 1965 AUSTRALIAN FLANTS ORCHIDACEAL Page 75 Vol 3 strips of Kleenex tissue, tied around the stem of the plant and some pieces are also fixed to a bush or tree as a marker. When a few weeks have past after the flowers have been fertilized, go and examine plants for good fertilization. The ovaries should have started to fill out. If there is some likelihood that the seed will ripen before the next visit, the carpels should be bagged. The bags should be made from light pager which is very strong and airy. | have used cigarette paper, but this is not strong enough to withstand heavy rain or hail. The glue used to glue the bags must be waterproof, a celluloid base glue is a good type. Make bags at least 6 inches long and 1 inch or more in diameter. The bags are carefully slipped over the carpels and the bottom carefully wrapped around the stem, then lightly but firmly tied with a heavy cotton or light string. Put the plant’s name on this bag before fitting on the plant. If carpels are to be collected without being bagged, wait till they start to change colour, usually they will be a lighter shade. Experience will tell when the time is right. Then pick the stems and place them in a glass of water. Again experience will tell when the seed is ripe and ready to fall. Pick the capsules and place them in a clean paper bag, again correctly named. The capsules should be picked 12 hours before seed fall. Keep the seed capsules in the bags in a cool dry place till ihoroughly dry, then separate the seed from the husk and store, or pack and post to the persons who will attempt to grow or collect them for redistribution. Editor’'s Note: Our No. 21 issue described in detail, @ method of orchid seed germination for those Kke'n enough to try it. Other issues have given simpler methods. There is a P need for a break through in reliable germination of terrestrial orchid sced. who X The Genus Ptcrostylis in Australia PART 1 — by L. CADY, Kiama, N.S.W. The genus Pterostylis is one of the largest of the Australian orchid family, containing upwards of 70 species. Quite a large number of these arc rare plants, and would rarely be seen by anyone other than the ardent taxonomist. With this in mind the writer has selected those of the genus which are the more commcn and the most attractive, and shall deal with them in three sections. 1. Autumn flowering; 2. Winter and Spring; 3. Summer and Multiflowers. CULTURE This genus lends itself well to culture, growing and multiplying vigorously— in fact so much so at times one must repot every year. The compost used is 500 fine grey sand, 40% peat moss, 100 charcoal and leaf mould. The ot is first crocked for Y4 with gravel or the likes, then filled to within 2/3rds of the top or so as to leave % inch at the top of the pot. The tubers (approx. 6 to a 6" pot) are planted approx. 17 below the soil surface. The 6 tubers to the pot should give enough room for 2 years growth, although some of the species, e.g. P. curta or P. concinna, can produce up to 6 new tubers per year. @@@ 28 @@@ Page 76 Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE March, 1965 Watering is always a controversial subject, but it is found that if the plants are kept moist when growing and rather dry when dormant, little or no tuber rot is experienced. Most of the “Greenhoods”” respond to frequent doses of rather weak liquid manures or one of the many foliage sprays now procurable, but remember to use it weak as it will tend to burn the foliage. Shading—All species require shade or semi-shade. Any exception to this will be mentioned in the text. The bush-house is the ideal type of environment, but any sheltered place in the garden or under a shrub with the pot plunged to its rim in the ground would be suitable. If this method is used, place a handful of sand under the pot. SECTION 1. Autumn Flowers 1. P. obtusa R.Br. "Blunt tongued greenhood” A slender or moderately robust plant of neat appearance growing usually in colonies, sometimes dense, but usually more scattered. Leaves cauline (stem bracts only, with no rosette attached to base of the flowering stem), variable in length and shape—usually broad lanceolate. The flower, rarely two, is approx. 1.5 to 3.75 cm. Colour wholly green or green with brown tonings or rarely wholly brown. The dorsal sepal is often as not tipped with a short, or at times rather long, filiform tip. Labellum broad- linear, red-brown, very obtuse and very slightly curved, about as tall as the column. Flowers: January to April, or at times later. District: Queensland, N.S.W., Victoria and S.A. This species is probably the commonest of the autumn flowers and takes well to culture, flowering and multiplying well. This is also one of the species that often forms its new tubers in the drainage hole or at times even under the pot. A lot of the ground orchids tend to form their new tubers around the sides of the pot. This is noticeable in the genus under discussion and also in Chiloglottis. Possibly it is for coolness as it is often noticed in nature that they form tubers near a stone. 2. P. alata Reichb. f. “The Striated Greenhood” A very slender plant up to 26 cm. high, rosette separate from flowering stem. Stem leaves bract-like or sometimes fairly well developed. Flowers one, rarely 2, 2-3 cm. long, pale green or whitish to greyish with brownish or brown green stria. Dorsal sepal ending in a short filiform. Labellum narrow lanceolate to 10 mm. long, the apex acutely pointed, as long as the column. Flowers: Late autumn to early winter. District: N.S.W., S.A., Victoria and Tasmania. 3. P. reflexa R.Br. “The Moss Greenhood” A slender and graceful plant up to 24 c¢m. tall, although usually smaller. Cauline leaves, linear to narrow lanceolate. Flowers usually one, smallish 1.5 to 1.75 cm., green with darker bands and suffusions. Galea curving from the basal swelling for the whole of its length and segments all filiform, decurved. Labellum linear, very dark and deeply decurved at its acute tip, approx. 15 mm. long. Flowers: Autumn. District: Queensland, N.S.W., and Victoria. @@@ 29 @@@ Awrcn, i, AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE Page 77 Vol. 3 KEY TO PLATE A. P obtusa with labellum. Side and top view. B. P robusta with labellum. Side and top view. ¢ P rerolute with labellum. Siae and top view D. P alata with labellum. Side and top view 2. F. geflera with Jabellum. Side and top view. F. P. pedoglossa with labellum. Side and top view. G, P, ophioglosse with labellum. Side and bifid tip. A G Approx o halt natural size Al other segments variously enlarged. @@@ 30 @@@ Page 18- Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE March, 1963 4. P. revoluta R.Br. "The Autumn Greenhood” A much larger plant than P. reflexa (a species that it has been confused with) up to 28 cm. high. Leaf bracts sheathing, lanceolate to linear. Flower large, up to 5 cm., translucent, green with darker bands, sometimes almost white. Galea up to 7 cm. round the curve, gibbous at the base then almost straight, curving round to an acuminate or even filiform deflex point formed by the dorsal sepal extending past the petals. Lower sepals erect, united about 1/3rd their height, the sinus forming a wide obtuse union. Labellum broad linear to narrow linear (rarer), up to 2.5 cm. long, tip decurved at apex. Flowers: Autumn to early Winter. District: Queensland, N.S.W., Victoria. 5. P. robusta Rog. "Sharp Leaf Greenhood” A slender glabrous plant to 20 cm. high. Stem leaves lanceolate or acuminate to 5 cm. long. Flowers green, large to 3.5 cm. (with filiform). Lateral sepals erect, much extending the hood with its filiform tip. Labellum almost straight lanceolate tapering to a fine point, approx. 15 mm. long— almost as long as column. Flowers: May to August. District: S.A., Victoria, W.A. 6. P. ophlioglossa R.Br. ""Snake Tongue Greenhood” This species with the following are of the group that has the rosette at the base of the flowering stem, and not as a separate one as in the preceeding (5). A slender to fairly robust plant, up to 25 cm. high. Leaves in basal rosette shortly petiolate (stalked), ovate. Stem often lacking in bracts. Flower usually one, variable in size, green with brown or pink markings. Flowers usually with a slight forward bend. Dorsal sepal at times deflexed at apex. Lateral sepals extend from an obtuse sinus high above the galea. Labellum oblong-linear to 16 mm. long, recurved, or at times sharply reflexed at right angles, normally protruding through the sinus of the lower lip. Apex of lamina deeply and narrowly bifid. Column as long as labellum. Flowers: April to July. District: N.S.W., Queensland, New Caledonia. P. ophioglossa var. collina Rupp. Flowers smaller. Dorsal sepals not longer than petals. Galea deep red brown. Lower sepals not greatly prolonged. Labellum very dark. Flowers: June to July. District: N.S.W., N. Queensland. 7. P. pedoglossa Fitzg. "Prawns” A small plant very slender, to 14 cm. tall. Leaves 3 to 6 in rosette at base, petiolate, ovate to 20 mm. long, sometimes extending up the flowering stem. Stem bracts one. Flower one, small to 16 mm. from top to base of the galea. All sepals extending in filiforms, petals short acute. Labellum oblong very short, the basal appendage as long or longer than lamina. Column very straight, approx. 3 times as long as labellum. Flowers: April to July. District: N.S.W., Victoria and Tasmania. Much more common in the southern States than N.S.W. @@@ 31 @@@ Aarch, 19635 AUSTRALTAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE Page 79--Vol. 3 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN PTEROSTYLIS by R. (. NASH The following Pierostylis wave peen yrown quite successfully. For the methods used in the preparation of pots and their care refer to “Growing S.A. Terrestrial Orchids.” Pterostylis curta. Blooms July to September. Habitat—shzltered, shaded gullies of the central Mt. Lofty Ranges, care and found in colonies. Growing care—place pots in a position well drained and in broken direct sunlight, away from heavy wind. Allow plants to receive as much natural rain as possible, keep pots moderately damp in summer (the dormant period) if they dry out do not water and allow to dry out again, this will cause the tubers to rot, but put in a protected position in shade. During the growing season and until plants start to wither try to keep soil in pot damp or over damp. Pot population—these plants like to bz moderately crowded. The best method is to start about 3 plants off in a 4 inch pot and when crowding starts to be apparent, transfer to a larger pot and so on till it s absolutely necessary to divide into smaller pots again. If any of these plants should appear in any pot with other orchid types remove them as in a few years they will take over the pot completely. Pterostyiis pedunculata. Blooms August to October. Habitat—sheltered parts of the Mt. Lofty ranges and the South East of South Australia. Sometimes found in open colonies. Growing care—same as Pterostylis curta, except keep soil in pots dryer during the wet season. Pterostylis cucullata. Blooms September, October. Habitat—shadced sheltered areas of the Mt. Lofty Ranges. Rare sometimes found in groups or singularly. Growing care—same as last two types, but nearer to the conditions of P. pedunculata. This form will not multiply very well without the application of Urea. Poi population—I have found that this species does not propagate under crowded cenditions, limit plants to no more than 3 to a 4 inch pot, watch that new tubers do not grow out of bottom of pot. This species will grow better if placed in deeper shace than the last 2. Pterostylis robusta. Blooms May to August. Habitat—shaded banks, at the base of trees mostly on the south side on plain lands and lower hills. At the base of trees and under bushes with a ncrthern aspect in the higher hills and mountains. Mt. Lofty Range; Sand hills west of Gawler; Mallee Lands, in South Australia. Found in colonies, the juvenile plants being most prominent and numerous. Under the best growing cenditicns 2 flowers may be obtained on the one stem, usually as twins in one growing season. Growing care—place pot in a position where it will drain well, be fairly well shaded ard have plenty of head room and be moderately free from wind. Keep damp but a little on the dry side during the growing @@@ 32 @@@ Page 80- Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORUHIDACEAFE March. 1965 season, place in a cool moist spot in the summer. This species likes to be on the crowded side. As crowding becomes excessive, repot into a slightly larger pot. Pterostylis barbata. Blooms September, October. Habitat—amongst bushes in the Central districts of South Australia. It appears that these plants need very well drained conditions with heavy shade. See article on “Growing S.A. Terrestrial Orchids.” Keep a layer of sawdust on top of the sand in the pot, let it rot down into the sand. Overcrowding could be detrimental, if it is possible to get this many plants. When repotting use lime stone gravel instead of broken pot. Pterostylis mutica. Blooms July to September. Habitat—Mallee lands, usually in shallow soils overlying limestone. Keep a layer of sawdust on top of the sand in the pot, let it rot down into the sand. When repotting use limestone gravel instead of broken pot. Plants collected from the Flinders Ranges are more robust and tolerate a damper location. Pterostylis vittata. Blooms May to July. Habitat—sandy or light loamy soils, Adelaide Plains, Mt. Lofty Range, Mallee Lands. These are very temperamental, sometimes they grow well then suddenly all die, the moisture content of the soil may be the trouble. They may have a set life span as they seem only to propagate from seed, very rarely by vegetative propagation. Ptercstylis longifolia. Blooms July to early October. Habitat—Mt. Lofty Ranges, Mallee Lands and Adelaide Plains. Growing care—same as for P. vittata with a very small amount of sawdust added to the top inch of sand. Pterostylis nutans. Blooms September, October. Habitat—in the higher rainfall areas of Mt. Lofty Ranges in sana and sandy loam soils or soils derived from sandstones. Grows well under the method used for P. curta with more shade. Pterostylis nana. Blooms July to October. Habitat: In the wetter parts of South Australia in a variety of soils. Those plants found in the Mallee are a different form from those found in the Mt. Lofty Ranges. The Mt. Lofty Range form appears to multiply oniy from seed, whereas the Mallee form is a vegetative multiplier as well. This latter form, forms small loose colonies. Cultivate similarly to P. curta but with more shade. Pterostylis pusilla. Blooms in October. Habitat—York Peninsula, Mallee Lands, Flinders Ranges and a few in Mt. Lofty Ranges. Found generally in loamy soils close to limestone but does occur in heavier soils. Use the same culture as for P. mutica. Pterostylis cycnocephala. Blcoms in September-October. @@@ 33 @@@ iareh e AUSEPRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE Page 81 Vol 3 Habitat—Mallee Lands in red sand overlying limestone. Culture as for P mutica. Pterostyliis alata. Blooms May to July. Habitat—Sandy scrub in the Southern Mt. Llofty Ranges and Adelaide Plains. Culture as for P. mufica. Pierostylis vereenae. Blooms August-September. Habitat—Parts of the Mt. Lofty Ranges, rare, in sandy soils. Culture as for P. nana. Pterostylis hamiitonii. Blooms June to September. Habitat—York and Eyre Peninsulas. Sand over limestone. Use limestone chips in the bottom of the pot and follow the culture for P. robusta. Pierostylis rufa. Blooms November to February. Habitat—Lower and Northern paris of the Mt. Lofty Ranges, Flinders Ranges and Eyre Peninsula, light grey soils. Culture as for P. mutica, but they like gcod shade, not too dzep, wth a little morning sun, winter and summer. Try to keep the pot on the dry side in winter and just damp in summer, till the plants wither, then let them dry out in a shady spot. Pterostylis squamata. Blooms October-November. Habitat—Near Mallee Lands. Culture as for P. rufa. Fcr those people unable to obtain good clean coarse sand, vermiculite snould make an excellent substitute. Sawdust—The sawdust from any timber that is neutral and will not pack down easily cculd be used in place of native timber. Also well rotted horse manure and very old rotted pine sawdust has been used on P. curta and P. pedunculata successfully. Authior’'s Noteo Only 22 spectes have been recordad e Souih Australia. The five not mentioncd above are Pterostylis conempa As tar as T Fnow only one plant has ever boen found i S.AL I have o Tew plants sent from NS W, I tereate 1T have never Jocated asoyeto It 1s supposed to be common on part of [Kangaroo Island Pooobtusa T have not seen this species e 5.4 1 was unlucky with 2 plants trom \Victorin 'oopervatlora Two Jorms. ove trom Vietorta and the other from near Mt Gambier, S tasted onlv 14 months. Another plant from the swamps ot Mt. Compass o'so failed ! mitehelin 1 believe this species 1s quite rare. I have scen o flower only. TASMANIAN PTEROSTYLIS TASMANIAN ORCHIDS—Part 1 by JOHN FIRTH The Greenhcods which are least demanding in their requirements for grewth, and which, in consequence, are most widely scattered through our bush, are Nodding Greenhood, P. nutans; Maroon Hood, P. pedunculata; and Tall Greenhood, P. longifolia. The first two mentioned are usually to be found in shady lccations, and often in quite damp soil. P. nutans flowers at any time irom July to November; but Maroonhoods are likely to bloom only in the August to October peried. Tall Greenhood is just as widespread as the other two, but it is less often noticed as it never occurs in large colonies. At most, only half a dozen plants are usually seen together. See colour plate, page 96. The Dwarf Greenhood, P. nana, is also very widespread, but, since it ic so finy, and since it is usually surrounded by heath, bracken, other smal: @@@ 34 @@@ Paee 682 Vol R AUVSTRALIAN PLAN QORIIDACE AL Mouoeh, 1950 shrubs and naiive grasses, it is usually overlooked. The Tiny Greenhood, P. parviflora, is ancther very small member of the genus which is usually overlocked. It is readily recognised from the fact that when several flowers are carried on the same plant, they face one another in pairs. One of our most difficult orchids to find is the Tailed Greenhood, P. pedoglossa. It has leaves only about a quarter inch leng, and it is found on shrubby heaths amongst reeds and native grasses. As its flowers rise only a few inches from the ground, and since its green colour is an excellent carouflage in the sea of green which makes up a heath, it is very seldom found. It prefers a moist soil between drier heathland and the wetter soil where Fairy Bonnets flourish. To find this elusive orchid, it is necessary to part the branches of the heathland shrubs, and study the ground at their feet, searching for the little rosettes of leaves pressed against the soil. Once o group has been found, it will be noticed that many hundreds of plants cluster 1ogether in a few square feet. A soil test will show that this little plant requires a very acid soil (down to pH 3.5) for growth. The Cearacd Greenhocd, P. barbata, is a most attractive species with a very uausual flower. Its yellow-bearded, thread-like labellum terminating in a shiny brown ftip is quite unique for the genus. Favouring dry areas among cucalypis, it celdem occurs in large numbers; but some localities have this orchid spread over such wide areas that, taken altogether, though thinly scattered, in all, there must be many plants in the region. Quartzite hiils where heath is common often carry quite a few of these orchids. This is a species that could well be cultivated. See colour plate, page 96. Our showiest Pterostylis is, undoubtedly, the Superb Greenhood, P. grandi- fiora which is occasionally given the picturesque name of Cobra Orchid. It is a very rcbust species with red-brown ledges on cach side of the hood which is spreading, giving the impression of a cobra’s head poised to strike. | have fcund these orchids only on granite slopes on our East Coast, where winter and early spring weather is more temperate than in other parts of the State. Usually these plants grow amongst bracken where they are difficult to see. Plants are usually solitary or few together, numbers of more than half a dozen in a small area being most uncommon. Two years ago, | found a solitary specimen, standing a foot or more high, amongst rocks on a bare granite slope. This plant carried a magnificent flower which remained fresh and showy from carly June to late August; quite an unusually long period for a native orchid to cairy its flower. Last year the plant again produced a flower but this time it lasied only about a month. Our Helmet Orchids flower about the same time as P. grandifiora. It is quite a picture to see the Fringed Helmet Orchids, Corybas fimbriatus, crouched between the stems of Superb Greenhoods, their curious liitle faces ceeming to peer upwards in admiration of their stately ccmpanions. CAPTION 70 COLOUR PLATE ON THE REAR COVER PTEROSTYLIS: This word literally means “Winged Style”” referring to the characteristic coumn of the genus. The dorsal sepal of the flower is curved over, and the lateral petals are closcly pressed against it, so that the three form a hood (galea) completely hiding the columia. The lateral sepals are joined to form a lower lip. Sometimes the points of thase two sopals rise above the hood as in P. nutans and P. pedunculata, but at other they are directed downwards as in . barbata and P. longifolia. Usually the labellum it hinged ond often it is very irritable, a feature which assists in pollination. J°. rutans, Nodding Greerhood., one of our commonest orchids. I'. barbate, Dearded Greenhood, our only greenhood with a bearded labellum. . peduredlata, Maroonhood. the Hower top ranging in colour trom bright red-brown oo almost arey. o . Tonaitolia Tall Greenhood, noted lor its irritable labellum which springs back when touched @@@ 35 @@@ Meuren, Jien AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAL Page 83 Vol 3 Other Pterostylis which favour similar areas to P. grandifiora are the Blunt Greenhood, P. curta; the Striped Greenhcod, P. alata; and Trim Greenhood, P. concinna. Curta has a curious twisted tongue. It is often found in colonies of some hundreds of plants; quite a striking sight when all are flowering together. They can stand a shallow soil. | have found them growing quite happily in an inch thick skin of soil over solid rock; but the most robust specimens are usually found in deep soil in shady places. I know of only one rather limited area where Banded Greenhoods grow. This is a few hundred feet up a granite slope where glimpses of the sea can be gained through the branches of Blue Gums, Native Box, and Casu- arinas. Here there are only a hundred or so of these lovely flowers with their transparent hoods delicately marked with faint green lines, sheltering between aranite boulders from winter storms. The third member of the trio, Trim Greenhood, is also a winter flowerer; but, as one specimen completes its flowering period and seeds, another is just opening. Thus you may find Trim Greenhood, in favoured areas flowering for six months of the year, from May to October. Apart from Dendrobium which is cuite a different type of crchid, Trim Greenhood is the commonest orchid on the granite slopes of our East Coast. Many thousands must occur in each acrc. So common are they that one is apt to overlook their beauty. What a curious tonguz they have with its notched tip, and how straight they stand! After the rush cf spring flowering crchids the Summer Greenhood, P. decurva, comes into its own. Though not as robust and showy as P. grandiflora it is a very attractive plant. The clender, leafless stalk lifts the large flower with its generous sweeping curves high into the air. It is a plant that seems to cazre litle obout altitude. | have found it in eucalypt forest only a few feet abcve sea level, and | have found it two thousand feet up a mountain, on mossy boulders, corpletely sheltered from the sun by musk and myrtle. Amongst our minute orchids an appealing plant is the Swan Greenhood, P. cynocephala. | know of several areas just behind the sandbanks of the sea coast, where this o'chid can be found in large numbers. Here, in the shelter of marram grass, and surrounded by rushes, | have found it growing with Pink Fairy Orchids, Caladenia latifolia. Flowering together these two orchids provide an interesting pattern of pink and green. Swan Greenhoods tolerate sandy conditions, and should be easy to grow. Strangely enough, although its main habitat is by the cea, there is a colony of these orchids in Epping Forest many miles from their uvsual haunts and in quite different soil. Of the Alpine Creenhoods P. alpina, is the most widespread. It is distinguished by its sharply bent back lateral sepals, and by the broad gap in the lower lip. Vereenae, P. vereenae, is the most attractive member of this group. It has a large leafy bract on its flower stalk, and the flower, although reserrbling that of P. alpina, is narrower, and the lateral sepals are not sharply swept backwards. The Forked Greenhood, P. furcata, is the least common of the three. It has a smaller bract on the stem, a very narrow gap between the lateral sepals, and these bend forward. All three of these mountain green- hoods favour myrtle forests, or beech forests as they are sometimes called. Here, on the shady forest floor, sheltered from winds and from the hot summer sun, they flower in late December and in January, are seldom seen except by the most ardent orchid lovers. | know one delightful spot where P. alpina and P. furcata grow beneath the branches of myrtles just a few feet from a tumbling waterfall. Truly a striking scene. cContinued on page 88) @@@ 36 @@@ Page 84 Vol 3 AVSTRALIAN PLANTS FROM CENFRAL AUSNSITRALIA Maren, 108h Wildflowers of Central Australia PART 1 —- by D. J. NELSON Possecssed by a desire to grow Central Australian “Pussy-tails” (Ptilotus species, hardy bushes of attractive foliage with often very colourful fluffy flower heads resembling a pussy’s tail) | began by planting seed, but to no avail. To introduce the plants to my garden so that the problem could be more readily studied, | found the following method quite successful. | discovered a patch of Ptilotus nobilis north of Alice Springs. Selecting a young plant, | carefully dug it up removing the root whole. With the root inside a large paper bag, the bag was then filled with soil from the same spot to within an inch of the top. The dirt was well watered to set the plant and then all the inflorescences and buds and some leaves removed, to compensate for root damage. On reaching home | dug an appropriate sized hole and placed the bag in it, packing the earth around it. The plant was then watered heavily each day for a week and once or twice I hotography by W Il Payne CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS, LINDL Arother shide showing o plant as just o mass ot pik fowers coudd have beets orinred bt this v cobetter tdea ot how the plant o wlb Took most ol tiwe vent @@@ 37 @@@ March, 1965 ATSTRALIAN PLANTS FROM CENTRAL AUSTRALIA Page 85—Vol. 3 a week thereafter. The Ptilotus nobilis thrived and produced large inflorescences for months. Other Ptilotus species that have been successfully grown by this method are Ptilotus atriplicifolius, P. obovatus, P. macrocephalus and P. polystachyus. All these are beautifully flowered small bushes suitable for your garden or rcckery. They were fully described in the No. 19 issue of “Australian Plants ” ANNUALS ESPECIALLY SUITED FOR GARDEN OR ROCKERY— CHENOPODIACEAE Atriplex halocarpa, A. lindleyi and A. spongiosa. Three ornamental annual saltbushes with spongy fruits. The fruit of A. lindleyi becomes pink on maturity. Attractive border plants, foliage a grey-green. Chenogadivm rhadinostachyum. A fragrant light green herb with unusual crumbly seed spikes to 6 inches long. Grows in the barest of areas. PORTULACACEAE (Succulents) Calandrinia balonensis Lindl. ‘Broad-leaved Parakeelya.” A suc- culent growing best in sand. Under cultivaticn it has attained 4 feet in diameter. Bears masses of pink flowers to 1 inch across which last only one day but are replaced by more blooms on succeeding days. A hardy plant of the red sandy deserts, much sought after by cattle. Lasts up to 2 years under cultivation but as with all succulents would be easy to propagate. Calandrinia ptychosperma. A small “Parakeelya” succulent to & ins. diameter, for that rockery cr miniature garden. Flowers are small, pink. Calandrinia remota. “Narrow leaved Parakeelya.” Similar to C. balonensis but more hardy, lasting over two years under cultivation in sandy soil. Attains two feet in diameter, with pink flowers in profusion on slender stalks to 1 foct long. Parakeelyas flowar the year round. LEGUMINOSAE Swainsona canescens var. horniana, a "Vetch.” Regular watering pro- duces fine results with this species. A spreading habit to 4 feet diameter with masses of purple flowers on six inch long flower spikes. It is seen at its best in the cooler months. Neptunia dimorphthantha var. clementii. “Sensitive Plant.” Possess- es fern-like leaves which fold on being touched. Produces large golden balls similar to wattle flower balls. Grows prestrate to 22 feet diameter under cultivation. Acts as an annual but has a perennial root which originates new growth in spring. GERANIACEAE Erodium crinitum and some other small Erodium species. These “Crowsfoots” or “Native Geraniums’ attained 1 foot under cultivation. Flowers are blue. Originally transplanted by the paper bag method they subsequently grew from seed which the criginal plants had shed. COMPOSITAE Ca.otis latiuscula, a daisy with yellow flowers over half inch across. It grows to 18 inches tall with a two foot spread and bears a profusion of blooms. CENTRALIAN BOTANICAL SERVICES Editor's Note: Mrs. D. J. Nelson has commenced a business known as ‘‘Centralian Botanical Services.” Once servi is the supply of seed at 3/- packet. A seed list will be sent on receipt of a stamp addressed envelope. Enquiries are invited from chemists, research workers, etc., who want material collected from the Centre for commercial reasons. @@@ 38 @@@ Pager 86—Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN 1 LANTS STREET TREES March, 1965 THE WILGA (Geijera parviflora) A STREET TREE? By J. ROS. GARNET Why not? Everybcdy knows Bcronia. The rather knowledgeable people are well enough acquainted with one or more of the Correas, Eriostemons or Phebaliums and most cf them know that they are generally aromatic plants belcnging to the same botanical family as the various citrus species and the popular garden shrub Diosma. But there is one purely Australian member of the family which has taken my fancy—the Wilga. | havent heard of it as a street tree but it should be a good one if grown in the right place. THE WILGA (ieitera parvitlora A 24-year-old specimen, 18ft. high and 201t in diameter. Thirty years ago the Wilga was accepted as one of the rare indigenes or north west Victoria but so much land clearing had taken place in that part of the State that botanists questioned whether it still existed anywhere in Victoria except as a cultivated tree. However, at last came news that some were still to be found growing in their natural habitat at a place called Narrung, between Piangil and Euston. How long they will survive in this little pocket of territory remains to be discovered but, meanwhile some folk have it in cultivation in their gardens or plantations so it looks as though it will be saved from actual extinction in the country south of the Murray. To the north it is nct so restricted in its distribution and on the western Riverina plains one may see it flourishing as a handsome, shapely and shady tree in the savannah woodlands, by the roadside or near creeks and rivers. @@@ 39 @@@ odarch, 1965 AUSTRALIAN [ LANTS- STREET TREES Page 87—Vol. 3 Of the five recognised species of Geijera, parvitlora is the only one with any potential as a street tree. The others are too small and shrubby. Our Wilga has a wide range throughout the western districts of New South Wales and Queensland and occurs also in a few South Australian localities and from observations of the situations where it thrives one may conclude that it would do well in the sandy soils of places where the well-distributed annual rainfall is between ten and eighteen inches. It can survive the blistering heat of an inland summer so long as the water table is not beyond reach of its deep penetrating roots and, like many desert plants, it will tolerate frost above ground so long as its underground parts are in a well- drained situation, protected from immersion in cold water. It is not a fast growing tree. A twenty-four-year-old specimen at the Waite Institute near Adelaide is now about 18 feet high and perhaps twenty feet in diameter. It is growing under exceptionally good conditions and, as tha accompanying photograph shows, it has those features which a conscienticus curator of parks and gardens (or any other tree-planting authority) demands of a street tree—moderate height, grace and shapeliness, umbrageous foliage, a clean trunk to somewhere near head height and no tendency to sucker. Its drooping branchlets and the greyish and rather narrow ovate-lanceolate leaves are aromatic when crushed—as one would expect in a member of the family Rutaceae to which it belongs. Although only of academic interest to municipal councils and their staff it may be noted that the foliage is eaten with relish by sheep, cattle and rabbits which, to some extent, explains why young plants are a rare sight in the places where the Wilga has established itself. It also explains why, in cattle country, the foliage is so neatly pruned to the height of a cow’s up-stretched neck. A well-established tree suffers no harm from this form of pruning by herbivores so it may be concluded that it would respond quite favourably to the mcre judicious trimming by saw or seccateurs should the need arise. The tree flowers in the winter months and sometimes in spring. Occasionally it will burst into bloom in June and again some months later but the flowers do not always produce fruit. The individual flowers are small but grouped together in somewhat locse pyramidal panicles so that, when in full bloom, a Wilga suggests something in silver filigree. Yes, | like the Wilga and would be glad to see it become a ponular street tree. Perhaps it already is in places ministered by discriminating people but | haven’t heard of them. The Society for Growing Australian Plants, through the editor of this journal, would be glad to learn of any such places. There is nothing like a good example to encourage emulation. The casual reader may wonder why | choose to write about and even recommend the Wilga as a street tree when so little is known about it. The reason is simply that it is uncommon and likely to become even more so unless it can capture the fancy of growers of Australian plants and to do that there will have to be, here and there, an avenue of them in a northern, southern, eastern and western township or city. HOW FROST RESISTANT ARE WILDFLOWERS This important problem will be investigated and all growers who are interested or can assist with observations should please contact C. W. Frazer, 175 Marsh Street Armidale. N.S.W @@@ 40 @@@ Pape 88—Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN PLANIS—ORCHIDACEAE March. 1965 TAUMANIAN PTEHOSTYLIS Continued from page No. 83 These are the “greenhoods” likely to be found. Of the others you may, once in a very long time, find Sickle Greenhood, P. falcata, a very impressive but uncommon orchid. Or, in the mountains, you may happen upon P. acuminata with its brown-tipped, pointed flowers. Then again you may see the Ruddy Hood, P. pusilla, ncted for its peculiar irritable labellum, decorated with a few long hairs. With the gradual spread of settlement and the clearing of large areas of natural bush in our coastal areas, it is now necessary to go to the mountains for some of the greenhoods that used to be found near the sea. Slender Greenhocd, P. foliata must now be looked for inland, and Leafy Greenhood P. cucullata, is likely to be found only in the mountains amongst the Cushion Plants and Richea of highland heaths. One of the most controversial greenhcods is the small Greenhood, P. aphylla. Most authorities suggest that this does not differ in any way from P. parviflora. In Tasmania there is, however, a very small greenhood to be found in the cummer months deep down between button grass tufts in swampy places. It is even more difficult to find that P. pedoglossa because only isolated plants ever occur ,and these are leafless, or have just a few dead leaves at their bases. Superficially this plant resembles P. parviflora; but it is more robust, and, instead of flowers being spread along the flowering stalk, they are massed near the end. Mentone Greenhcod, P. foveyana, is likely to be found near where P. concinna and P. alata grcw together. It is thought to be a natural cross between the two. It is nowhere plentiful. The Banded Greenhood, P. viitata, is not found on the Tasmanian Mainland, but it is not uncommon cn Bass Sirait Islands. It somewhat resembles P. longifolia, but it is rather mere showy with ncdding flowers which are attractively striped with brown. The Midget Greenhood, P. mutica, is very seldom seen. It resembles P. cynocephala but is more robust and the tongue projection points inwards, instead of outwards as in the Swan Greenhood. Another Orchid very rarely cund in Tasmania is Scaly Greenhcod, P. squamata. Only a very few specimens have ever been found here, and these have come only from the healthy plains of the Far Nor’ West. Undoubtedly this fascinating genus contains many species eminently suitable for the shady, mossy corners of gardens near ponds; or for drier areas shaded by trees. Wherever they are tried a genuine attempt must be made to give them similar conditions of soil, and water, and sun to those of their natural bush haunts. Nothing is worse than to see bush plants struggling in unsuitable conditions. By studying plants in their natural environ- ment, many valuable pointers can be found to their successful culture. Apart from the utilitarian value of such a study, most people find bush excursions both stimulating and inspiring. NATIONAI, PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION The first of an annual National Photographic Competition will be condncted in association with the Anstralinn Wildflower Festival of 1965 to be held in Canberra on September 11th, 12th and 13th. Unfortunately for many readers the first competition for colonr slides vii'l pot be storted until 1966, the competition this vear being confined to two classes as nominated by the Canberra Photoeraphic Societv. For further information and entrv forms contact the Secretary, Canberra Photographic Society, Inc.. P.O. Box 4. Ainslie, A.CT @@@ 41 @@@ Murch, 1965 AUSTRATTAN FLANTS -BOTANY Page 89 -Vol. 3 THE PLANT BODY PART 2 — by HELEN LEE In the previous article the chief tissues of flowering plants were mentioned. Now the mcst common cell types of these tissues will be described. 1. CELL TYPES OF THE GROUND TISSUE. (a) Parenchyma cells. These cells may be found in masses as a tissue called parenchyma or they are found associated with other types of cells in other tissues, e.g. in the vascular tissue. Parenchyma cells vary in shape but they usually have thin walls and are many-sided. The cells may be more or less box-shaped or slightly elongated. (See Fig. 1). In some tissues the cell walls can become relatively thick. An important point about parenchyma cells is that the protoplast is always living even when the cells are mature. At maturity the protoplast is often contracted to form hin layer on the inside walls of the cell walls. The space inside the cell is then filled with a liquid, the cell-sap, the composition of which is very variable. Many different substances are found in the cells, depending on their physiological function. Tannins, proteins, sugars and various crystalline substances may be stored in the cells. One of the most common storage materials is starch which is deposited in the form of small grains in parenchyma cells in a variety of tissues and organs. Certain parenchyma cells have a photosynthetic function, i.e. they are able to synthesize sugar from carbon dioxide and water in the presence of light and chlorophyll. The chlorophyll is a green substance found in the cytoplasm in special bodies called chlcroplasts. The photosynthstic parenchyma is sometimes called chlorenchyma and is found in leaves and green siems. ”“Cl el walls especially \n the corners “) srin el wall ’ (c> thick cell wall e el wall thin cel| 210 3paces between wall the celis £l vacuole (e) (b) conlaining Cjellsap (d) 5 G : cenchyvma cells o : agri t collenchyma cells Fig. 1 Diagrams of Parenchyma cells in Fig. 2 Diagram o yma e l(mgituclin’:ll (a & ©) and cross-section in lQuultpdmul (a) :‘md .CI)()-SS-N(‘(UOH (b & d). Magnified about 300 times (b1 Magnification approx. h00 times. (b) Collenchyma cells. These are sometimes regarded as a type of parenchyma cell with a special structure and a supporting function. The cells are slightly elongated and have thick primary walls. (See Fig. 2). The thickening in the walls is unevenly distributed and is often found in the angles where several cells meet. Collenchyma cells have living protoplasts at maturity and sometimes the cells contain chloroplasts. @@@ 42 @@@ Puve 90—Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN I'LANTS—BOTANY March, 1965 truck tignified wall thuck higmibied ceil wall- pit ) T — @ ] ( 9P\f thick |lgrnhed b? wall ~thick cell wall fi Y S/ma\\ cell lumen i)\T-, v 3l Fig ‘.i_fDiagram of a fibre in longitudinal Fig 4—(a) A group of brachysclereid section. (b) Diagram of 1 orom ] Magnification approx. 400 times. fibres in cross-section (Mayg. approx. (h) Star-shaped type of scleroid 800 times). Muagnification approx. 200 times. Collenchyma tissue, which is cocmposed of masses ot collencnyma cells, seems to be adapted for support. It is frequently found in the cortex of young stems. In celery e.g., it is found in strands in the ribs of the stem and can be removed as “strings.” It also forms a continuous layer on the smooth inner side. (c) Sclerenchyma cells. These generally have thick lignified walls and their function is usually mechanical. They are thought to provide support for plant organs and to protect thin-walled cells. Sclerenchyma cells are very variable in structure and development but in general they can be grouped into (i) fibres and (i) sclereids. However, these two categories are not always clear-cut and many intermediate forms occur. (i) Fibres. Fibres are usually elongated tapered cells with very thick walls in which numerous pits may occur. The thick secondary walls may be lignified or consist entirely of cellulose (See Fig. 3). Fibres are found in most tissue systems. Xylary and phloem fibres commonly develop simultaneously with xylem and phloem cells in the vascular tissue. Other fibres, often referred to as the extraxylary fibres are found in various plant tissues such as the cortex. Many of the commercial fibres are phloem fibres, e.g. flax comes from Linum ucitatissimum and hemp from Cannabis sativa. Others are leaf fibres, e.g. hemp, which comes from the leaves of the Agave plant. In the case of these commercially useful fibres the individual cells vary in length from less than a millimetre to about 50 centimetres but they aggregate to form strands of considerable length and breadth. (ii) Sclereids. Sclereids are found in all parts of the plant body, vary in shape and size but all have lignified pitted walls. (See Fig. 4). Sclereids are commonly isodiametric in shape and these are known as brachysclereids or stone cells. They are common in the cortex and pith of many plants. They frequently occur in fruits and seeds, e.g. the stony particles in the flesh of pears are made up of groups of brachysclereids. The hardness of nut shells and the stones of fruits and the tough seed coat typical of many wattles and other legumes are all due to the presence of layers of sclereids. @@@ 43 @@@ March, 1965 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS BOTANY Page 91 Vol. 3 2. CELL TYPES OF THE VASCULAR TISSUE The vascular fissue is composed of the chief water-conducting tissue ur xylem and the chief food-conducting tissue or phloem. Both the xylem and phloem contain fibres and parenchyma cells but the actual arrangement of the cell-types in the vascular tissue will be discussed later. secondary 5\’"\," secondary Qh.bkzmnq thuckening W:‘mrs S )/ Q S (‘mnpamm N cel Is (a) (b) Sieve Dlate oIy Sivve Bred Sicve vred Sieve ] L ot || i J| caione . - . Yhnder Qg 8/\\_\‘)’-“ surroy & = Connccting Sieveplate Strand F o (blac kdlot ) ‘9‘ cnm\cu.:ufl Strands (a) (bY fg 8 Fig. 5—Diagram of some vessel members showing types of perforations in endwalls Fig. 6—Diagrams of longitudinal sections of portion of vessel members showing the thickening of the inside wall; (a) Annular thickening, (b) Spiral thickening and (¢) Reticulate thickening. Fig. 7-—Diagram of sieve-tube members showing adjacent companion cells and connecting sieve plates. Fig. #8-—(a) Diagram of a section of a sieve plate. Note sicve areas, callose and connecting strands: (b) Surface view of a sieve plate. (a) Xylem. The most characteristic cells of the xylem are the tracheids and vessel members. At maturity the cells function as water-conducting elements and their cytoplasm is no longer living. Tracheids are elongated cells with tapering end-walls. The walls are thickened except for the numercus pits which may be simple or bordered. The vessel members are elongated single cells with transverse or oblique end-walls. Usually a series of vessel members lies end to end to form a long tub known as a vessel. The end-walls between each vessel member are perforated in various ways ranging from small holes or slits to a complete opening. (See Fig. 5). Each vessel member has secondary thickening which is laid down in various patterns viz. rings, bars, special bands or as « reticulum (See Fig. 6). After this thickening is deposited, the protoplasts of the vessel members disappear. The vessel walls are also pitted. «To be Continued in the No. 25 Issue). @@@ 44 @@@ Page 92--Vol. 3 AUSTRALIAN rl,ANTS—fiVURSERYMiEN March, 1955 F C PAYNE I3 I WILDFLOWER GARDEN i Addison Ave., Atnhelstone, S.A I: Manager H. R. Holliday Telephone AT1025 ;i AUSTRALIAN AND SOUTH AFRICAN PLANTYS See mature specimens of plants you buy ’ Open Every Day © No Mail Orders | i ALEXANDER PLANT FARM Greenbriar Drive-in Nursery (Doug. Twaits, Prop.) AUSTRALIAN NATIVE PLANTS 2 Winifred Street, ESSENDON, W.5. Large and Varied Selection. Phone: 379-5163 ‘ BRITNELLS RD., BRIAR HILL, VIC. EVERYTIING FOR THE GARDEN Y2 mile beyond Greensborough Snecializing in Australian Native Plants Phone 43-1468. °P°" Weekends AUSTRALZAN NATIVE PLANTS GOOD SELECTION ADVANCED & SEMIADVANCED PLANTS AT DENOVAN'’S NURSERY — UuU 8891 188 Mauarco Avenue, Panania, N.S.W SORRY NO MAIL ()RI)I-,‘RS PRISERVATION BY CULTIVATION FLORALANDS KARIONG, via GOSFORD, NS W. | A large variety of the most popular native plants at nursery PHONE: Gosford 21142 P. J. PARRY G. A. & K. M. ECHBERG'S i BODDY'S EASTERN PARK NURSERY : NURSERY Lower Dandenong Road : NATIVE PLANT SPECIALISTS et . i (3,000 varieties) Braeside. Tele.: 91-9438 : v i 2 p ‘ Short Catalogre aeith Retail Price List 1 mile west of Sprmgvale Road ° ard full desceriptions arvatlable [ . Soth African Proteas, Leucadendrons & and Loucospermums grown in variety o v THE HOME OF UNUSUAL ‘ Plunts despatehed all States PLANTS : 32 Denman Street, East Geelong, Vie NATIVE AND EXOTIC Teb e a:mml‘i.‘u.“. i L i neng E § WILLUNGA NURSERY WYALANDRA NURSERY £ E Trade Supplies of Native Plants 47 JACANA GROVE. HEATHCOTE, 3 N.SwW i 21 NELSON ST, THORNLEIGH H Closed: wedeRds Wildflowers of the Heathcote area ;:3_ y In stock: Species of Boronia and g PHONE 84-3709 Eriostemon NINDETHANA : NATIVE PLANTS NATIVE PLANT SEEDS 3 M) varieties of shrubs, rockery plants By Packet. Ounce or Pound : eround covers, trees. Many displayed Larpe selection. Send for free list. = 1y 4 oarden setting. . AMAROO NURSERY NINDETHANA : 85 LANG ST.. PADSTOW, NS W (G. W. Althofer) . Closed Wednesdav . Tal @ 777342 . Catalogue 1.3 Posted Box 5. Dripstone, NS W No Interstate orders @@@ 45 @@@ NMurehs FUIRY U NERALLAN P LANTS N RSERYMEDN Page v Vol 3 YOUR GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANT NURSERYMEN deadnder Plant Form 2 Winifred Street, Essenden, W5, Victoria . Prndroo Nursery Volang Streer. Padstow . NS W One of the widest ranges of - natives Pedbvg Norsern Box 120 Hall's Gap Vie W and R T Stanton The home ot the Thryptonene Powddy ~ Fastern Purh Nursery o 527 Detmnon St Geelong, Victoria 30000 varieties Clearriec Norsecg W Canes Box 19 Madtra, Victoria Spectadist in developed pians Peenorane s Nuyrseen 18 Alarea e Panatia Svdnes, NS WO AT nursery only b b} o [N Y i Noroser s Braeside Hichett & Moorabbin, Vietoria Greenbirire Prge te Nuesers 55 Brinells Rd o, Broae Hill Vactorin Targe & varied seleetion Veloeod bt JooWaanien Rd o Crovdon, Victorna Quahty Plants Narrabeen Nwosery 1434 Pintwater Rd o Nuarrabeenn Nthoo NS W Phaits tor coust ey, B ) Floratatds Kartone via Gostord, N.SW 4 wide ranee Postal orders taken Pinderbor Nooseri Tinderbox Blackman Bay, Tasmianta Paltanrne Plant Farm oshurp’ s Road, Pullamanne Vieo Opens weekends Wollunga Nursery 21 Nelsoin Street, Thornleigh, N.SW Wopalandra Nwrsers 47 Jacana Grove, Hestheote . NSW o Wildtiowers ot Heatheote area KING’S PARK AND BOTANIC GARDEN, PERTH, W.A. lond Seed List now publishied (844 spectes . Distedy 1 6 post ITee Seed 3 pel packet Wholesaie rates o applhication BELBRA NURSERY NARRABEEMN NURSERY In the Heart of the Grampians 74 AUSTRALIAN NATIVES LARGE RANGE OF 1444 Pittwater Rd., Narrabeen AUSTRALIAN NATIVES Nth., NSWwW XX 2604 OPEN EVERY DAY Spectalist dn plionts tor Sew coast mquiries: Box 12, HALL'S GAP NATIVE PLANTS — TULLAMARINE PLANT FARM Starps Road Tallamarine USUAL & UNUSUAL Phoue a0 T8 F. c J MCLEOD tonle northe o ot Melbourne Arwrport ‘1 . Chjwrse Wi hennds losed Mondays ; Wildflower Nursery ~ SHRUBS, TREES, PERENNIALS WARRIEN ROAD, CROYDON, VIC. Niutive & exotic. popular & rare More than 300 Species . . . Native and exotic trees and shrubs available from Forestry Commision nurseries at Pennant Hills, Dubbo, Forbes, and Narrandera, N.S.W. For frce catalogue giving complete details and prices of species contact: FORESTRY COMMISSION - OF N.S.W. 44, Margaret Street, Sydney. Telephone: B 0236 @@@ 46 @@@ Paoe %4 Vol 3 ATISTRALIAN PLANTS - YOUR SOCIETY Mureh, 190 THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ""AUSTRALIAN PLANTS" IS AUSTRALIA'S NATIONAL PRESERVATION JOURNAL (A non-profit making venture, produced quarterly, dedicated to preservition by cultivation This journal is published by The Publishing Section on behalt of The Society for Growing Australian Plants and its member Societies as follows SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS N.S.W. REGION President: Mr. C. M. Taylor, 39 Addison Avenue, Roseville, N.S.W Secretary: Mrs. R. Bartholomew, 145 Anzac Puraae, lattle Bay, N.S.W SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLAN1S QLD. REGION President: Mr. P. Hamilton, Carnoola Street, Bardon, Brisbane Secretary: Mr. M. W Hodge, 25 Barford St., Moorooka, QIld SOUTH AUSTRALIAN SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS President: Mr. A Webster, 26 Avenue Parade. Frewville, South Australia Secretary: Mr. E. J. Thompson, 115 Wattle Street, Fullurton, South Australia SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN FLANTS VICTORIA & TAS. President: Mr. F. Rogers, 108 Wanterna Rd., Ringwood, Victoria Secretary: (Sister) E. R. Bowman, 4 Homebush Cres., Hawthorn, F 3. Vie SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS CANBERRA RLEGION President: Mr. G. E. Blakers, 46 Vasey Crescent, Campbell, A.CT Secretary . Miss S, Rosengrave, Hotel Acton, Canberra, A.CT. WEST AUSTRALIAN WILDFLOWER GROWERS' SOC. INCORPORATED President: Mr. A. S, Mummery, Highview Rd., Greenmount, W.A Secretary: Mrs, G. Oxnam, 55 Phillip Road, Nedlands, West Australia Membership 1s open to any person who wishes to grow Australian native plants Contact the Secretary of the Society for your State for information without obligation PUBLISHING SECTION FOR SOCIETIES Muanaging Editor: W. H. Payne Publishing Committee tor this > R, N. Dallimore, P D. Leak Sec.: K. Coxhead. Dispatch: V. Hopkins, a: ted by J. Birtles, N. Gane, C. Hubner, R Greenaway, with families. Stencils: R. Bartholomew. [llustrations: A. Spurway and E. Hamn Advertising and Sales Representatives in each State: N.SW., P. D. Leak; Qld., wW. W Kilgour; S.A., I. G. Holliday, Tas.. G. van Munster; W.A. ' Lulllitz; Vict., I'' R Jeils MAIL—Address mail to the Editor, 860 Henry Lawson Drive, Picnic Point, N.S'W SUBSCRIPTION —Members: Apply state Secretary above. NON-MEMBERS: You may receive the next 4 issues direct to your home by torwarding an annual subscription of 127 Overseas subscriptions are 12 sterling or 1': dollars g/linfiing o/. o TYPEWRITERS, ADDING MACHINES, OFFICE EQUIPMENT, STATIONERY AND ALL TYPES OF COMMERCIAL PRINTING [ You can get satisfaction and cflicient service on office supplies, typewriters, office machines and oflice furniture when you deal from people interested in your needs. Complete range of Namco and Olivetti Equipment. Why not ask for a price list on these items. Delivery anywhere in the Metropolitan area. Surrey Beatty & Sons RICKARD ROAD, CIHPPING NORTON (at Milperra Bridge) 6026522, 602-7404 @@@ 47 @@@ Muarch, 1965 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS MYRTACEALN Page H5 MOL, § QUICK RESULTS WITH EUCALYPTUS by DON PERRIN We are accustomed to thinking of Eucalyptus as rather large rrees taking many years to reach maturity. There are, in fact, many Eucalypts which offer you quick growih and early flowering. When we moved into our house eleven months ago we took one look at the front patio and decided that we needed shade. That is, shade n summer and sun in winter. How could this best be done and in the quickest possible way without resorting to deciduous trees? | happened to have a gcod looking Lemon-scented Gum (E. citriodora) in a prune tin. This was the answer. It was put in with a handful of blood and bone just north of ihe patio in good sandy loam. Now (December, 1964) it is ten feet. That is ten feet from seed germinated 14 months ago. The Lemon-scented Gum grows tall and straight with a graceful sparse crown so that in summer the shade will be cver the patio; in winter the crown will be high enough to allow the low rays of the sun to pass beneath. From giants to dwarfs. Two little Kruse’s Mallees (E. kruseana) less than two feet high and less than two years old, thrilled me the other day by presenting flower buds. This little tree has very small silvery leaves and yellow flowers. Another E. kruseana of the same age has bzen censtan:ly tip-pruned and has not budded as yet. One of the most ornamental of small trees must be the Argyle Apple (E. cinerea). The ash-grey juvenile foliage forms a pattern most striking and ornate. A friend said to me the other day that it wouldnt hurt to have one in every garden. We have eleven, some in very poor sandy soil, some in good sandy loam. Clearly, the preference is for better soil. Argyle Apples have reached a height of 6-8 feet in one year in good soil. Another similar small glaucous tree keeping pace with E. cinerea is the Silver-leaved Mountain Gum (E. pulverulenta). Its leaves are larger, more bluish grey and the growing tips are enhanced by a slight pink flush. The Coral Gum (E. torquata) will flower in a tin in its second year. See the flowers of this small tree and it's love at first sight. This tree must have a big future as indeed must many of the other small flowering species. Pink Flowering Yellow Gum (E. leucoxylon variety macrocarpa “pink”) is likely to flower at about five feet. While the two last mentioned are not as showy as E. ficifolia—the flowers being along the stems within the canopy—their attraction lies in the brilliance of colour coupled with highly ornamented buds. You are invited to join the Eucalyptus Study Section and receive the benefit of knowledee accumulated trom ditferent parts of Australia on the growth of these ftrees If you are growing any species at all of DBucalyptus the leader would like to hear about them. Write to Do Perrin, 20 Pitt Street, Springwood, N W., enclosing stamped addressed -nvelope WILDFLOWER STUDY SECTIONS A number of readers with @ common interest torm a study section. They correspond, compare notes and experiences and exchange seed and plants. Research and development experiments are devised on request for those who wish to do such work at home. Contact with growers from all parts of Australia is by mail and renresents the only expenditure involved. The objective of the sections is to provide a link and interest for gpardeners ot common interest but also to find out how a particular genus of plants will grow in the parden, record results and develop better torms. To join, send a stamped addressed envelope to the Iiditor and nominate vour o'« interest. Study Section already exist tor Acncia, Anigosanthns, Banksia, Rlandford a, Roronia, Casvia, Correa. Demniera, Driandra, Eriostemon. Evealyptos, Isonoaon, Lentospermum, Melaleuca, Nuytsia. Orchids-Terrestrial, Orchids-Epiphytal, Petrophila, Stylidium, Telopza, etc. Special eroups also evist to examine certain asnects snch as Photogruaphy, Propagation, Street Trees, Natives For Sea Side Planting, PFrost-Hardy Natives, ete, @@@ 48 @@@ Mol JUED AUSTRALIAN PLANTS ORCHIDACEAE Pave 95 Vol 3 ol i