'Australian Plants' Vol.6 No.48 September 1971

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PUBLISHED BY THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS IN 12,000 COPIES

Australian Plants

Registered for posting as a riodical- SEPTEMBER, 1971 Vol

Category Volume 6 will comprise issues

"

Price: 30c

W

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Page 142—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CONTENTS Sept., 1971

WILDFLOWERS IN VICTORIA

This issue has been prepared by Victorian enthusiasts. What is so little
realised is the range of growing conditions in Victoria and their severity in some
areas. The plants they recommend have been successfully proved in similar
conditions in N.S.W. and are quite hardy in temperate areas.

The principal wildflower areas of Victoria are given opposite, and latter
pages describe many of the plants of floral value. For those who would like to
know more of the wildflowers in these areas we recommend the book “Flowers
and Plants of Victoria”, see pp. 144, or previous issues of this periodical, where
hundreds are described and illustrated.

GROWING WILDFLOWERS

The emphasis in this issue is the cultivation of wildflowers in home gardens.
The hundreds recommended also include some from other parts of Australia that
have proved hardy under garden cultivation.

“Landscaping For a Bush Garden”, pp. 146, advises on the establishment of a garden.

“Planning a Native Garden”, pp. 165, gives hints on the selection of plants.

“How to Transform a Conventional Garden Into a Native One”, pp. 166.

“A Wildflower Garden”, pp. 147, introduces and illustrates a garden for your

! guidance.

“Small Plants for the Garden”, pp. 147, describes many hardy plants suitable.

“Birds in the Native Garden”, pp. 161, invites you to share the company of birds.

“Natives for Window Boxes”, pp. 142. Gardening in miniature,

“Acacia for Melbourne Gardens”, pp. 154. Wattles that will suit your garden.

“Boronia and other Rutaceae, pp. 159 is supp. by “Victorian Boronia”, pp. 160.

“Correa”, pp. 156 describes small easily grown plants with bell shaped flowers.

“Emu Bush—FEremophila in Northern Victoria”, pp. 184. Dry area gardening.

“Eucalypts for Southern Victorian Gardens”, pp. 163.

“Grevillea—Victorian Grevillea Under Garden Conditions”, pp. 169. Spider flowers?

“Hakea—As Grown In Melbourne Gardens”, pp. 167. Shrubs with unique flowers.

“Hibbertia—Their Cultivation”, pp. 175. Floriferous, yellow flowered small plants.

“Melaleucas In Melbourne”, pp. 180. Hardy easily grown shrubs of great value.

“Mint Bushes—Growing Mint Bushes in Melbourne”, pp. 170. Beautiful flowers,
fragrant bush.

“Orchids—Cultivation of Chiloglottis”, pp. 172. Terrestrial orchids for pot culture.

COVER—Prostanthera aspalathoides, “Scarlet Mint Bush’’ see p. 171.

NATIVES FOR WINDOW BOXES

by M. Fisch

About six years ago | was asked to recommend Native Plants for a
window-box, facing west. It was only 36" x 18" and 3’ deep, built in bricks.
I enquired in a Native nursery and was told to forget it, to plant petunias
or geraniums. | tried to forget that, | mean the petunias, and went ahead.
We lined the box with heavy black polythene, filled the bottom with small
stones, taking care to have some holes in the side to get rid of excess
water; added some coarse sand and charcoal and topped it with a mixture
of mountain soil, black sand and local clay soil. We let it settle and after
much consideration planted one each of Grevillea biternata and G. lavandu-
lacea and two Lechenaultia biloba. You should have seen them grow! They
were planted around Easter and G. lavandulacea and the Lechenaultias
bloomed the next spring. Grevillea biternata flowered in the second year.
From then on they just grew and grew.

The Lechenaultia had to be replaced in the third year—and even then
were ousted by the vigorous Grevilleas. After 6 years also G. biternata had
to be removed as it was growing too big, the roots nearly pushing the
bricks out. It has been replanted now with only Grevillea lavandulacea and
Dampiera rosmarinifolia, both doing well.

(Continued on page no. 174)



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—VICTORIAN WILDFLOWERS Page 143—Vol. 6

FLORAL REGIONS OF VICTORIA

| by Jean Galbraithe

The flora of Victpria is really quite distinctive and beautiful with its
range of species, those in the north having, naturally enough, affinities with
those of southern N.S.W., in the west, with eastern S.A. and in the south and
alpine areas, with Tasmania.

We can divide the state broadly into 10 floral regions, starting from the
north-west corner with its characteristic Mallee flora. Here mallee eucalypts,
with several trunks rising fan-like from a thick “mallee root” or lignotuber,
rarely grow tall. Leaves crowded toward the top of the branches give each
other some protection from drying winds which pass harmlessly through the
lower almost leafless branches. Wattles in the mallee are colourful, varied
and seldom tall, with phyllodes either small, spine-like or leathery, and the
understorey is quite bright over a wide flowering season. Shrubs with small
or hairy leaves like the “Scarlet Mint Bush”, Prostanthera aspalathoides (front
cover) and the “Pink Velvet-bush”, Lasiopetalum behrii and those with thick
leaves like the desert living “Emu Bushes” are suited to dry conditions. So
in their different ways are the “Salt-bushes”, the “Noon flowers”, the many
annuals, everlastings, “Sunrays and Poached-egg Daisies” and plants like
Swainsona and “Golden Pennants” (Loudonia) which have very long taproots
and little foliage above ground in summer.

South of the Mallee and spreading eastwards into the Goldfields area
of ironbarks and bright-flowered undershrubs is the grassland of the Wimmera
Plains broken by the sandstone scarps of the Grampians, home of a varied
ond beautiful flora. The exciting wildflower area includes endemic species
such as Grevillea dimorpha and “Showy Bauera”, Bavera sessiliflora.

The Grampians flora runs into that of the South Coast near Portland’;
The basalt plains of the Keilor lie between the Portland area and the
Brisbane Ranges near Bacchus Marsh more or less correspond to the Wimmera
Plains. South of them is the luxuriant forest of the Otway Ranges.

East of the plains the Dividing Range (of which the goldfields region forms
part of the foothills) rises into the main Alpine area of Victoria with the
outlying Baw Baw plateau running down towards the Gippsland Plains, a
pastoral area of red gum plains north of the Strzelecki Ranges, and the
richly varied coastal plains with typical heathland vegetation to the south.

The southern parts of the divide are clothed with wet sclerophyll forest—
Alpine and Mountain Ash with other tall forest trees, many ferns and other
vegetation characteristic of areas of high rainfall but above 4000 to 4500
ft. the vegetation is typically subalpine to alpine with high plains and
sphagnum bogs (where not destroyed by grazing) where countless daisies and
dwarf shrubs and perennials bloom in summer, the alpine soring.

South of the alpine region the Eastern Coastal Plains from Marlo to
Mallacoota have much in common with N.S.W. coastal heathlands. This floral
carpet country so vulnerable to development just behind the dunes is rich in
flora. Will we be allowed to preserve it?

For a pictorial presentation of these regions see the next page.



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Page 144—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—VICTORIAN WILDFLOWERS Bept.) 1971

AUSTRALIAN FLORA IN COLOUR

Flowers and

Plants of
VICTORIA

by Cochrane, Fuhrer, Rotherham & Willis

Correa reflexa—see page 156

Below—Calectasia cyanea
“The Blue Tinsel Lily’’

Above—*‘‘Mountain Gentian"', Gentianelle diemensis.
The only Australian species of this genus, found
in grasslands of the Alps and to lower elevations.

Reproduction of the colour jacket (reduced in size) of the book of the above name).

For anyone interested in the wildflowers of Victoria the above is really
a must. It may be obtained from the Editor by mail for $9.95 plus 25¢ postage.
The 543 colour plates with very good descriptions by J. H. Willis makes it
remarkable value. The colour plates are grouped into the floristic areas
mentioned by Jean Galbraith on the previous nage, for those more interested
in a specific area. It also makes it easier for those who love to ramble through
the bush.

Alternatively past issues of “Australian Plants” have illustrated hundreds
of Victorian wildflowers in this iscue together with advice on their propagation
and cultivation.



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N WILDFLOWERS Page 145—Vol. 6

Photography by P. Ellis
KUNZEA PARVIFOLIA — VIOLET KUNZEA

This healthy shrub, 2-3 ft., makes a colourful display on granite hillsides of the upper
Murray. Easily grown from seed and readily cultivated it requires similar treatment to the
closely related Melaleuca described and illustrated on page no. 180.



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Page 146—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CULTIVATION Sept., 197"

LANDSCAPING FOR A BUSH GARDEN

by N. Kemble [

There are three basic groups or elements used in landscaping:

1. The inanimate raw materials of logs (plenty, of them), rocks (large
and small), coarse sand, maintain soil, grqvril and bush litter (dead
leaves, twigs, etc.).

2. Growing things you decide to plant, ranging in size and shape
from trees through shrubs to prostrate ground cover.

3. A generous spicing of personal characteristics, like imagination,
observation, patience and enthusiasm.

Of all these things, probably imagination and observation are most
important. Make a point of observing, really studying, the natural bush
character; how the combination of logs, rocks, etc., harmonise in “the bush”.

Now use your imagination to transfer that character to your suburban
block. First of all, think of planting areas (or beds if you prefer) and define
them with the logs. Walk around among them and get the “feel” of it.

Strive for a balance between the elements—sometimes referred to as
“spatial composition”. Leave room for walking and for (later on) contem-
plation. It is more important for you to enjoy the garden than a passer-by.

Keep the shape informal. Avoid straight lines like the plague.

Think about levels. If your block has a natural fall, exploit it. If not,
try to create different levels.

Once you get the general pattern established, build up the “beds” by
digging some of the topsoil off the walking area and throwing it among the
logs, together with equal parts of mountain soil and sand, topped off
with liberal doses of bush litter.

Now stop for a while and think. Think about what you will be planting
and think again about shapes. If necessary, carry out minor adjustments or
refinements to your composition. The pause also allows the beds to settle.

If you like rocks, a few really big ones should have been included
in your layout. Put them in before anything else while you still have room
to move. Set them into the ground a bit so they look as though they’ve
always been there. Smaller rocks can be added when you start planting.
Any moss on the rocks should be shown to advantage. Bury any broken edges.

Now add your trees and shrubs as the third dimension to your landscape.
Again (apart from the practical aspects) think about forms, shapes and
proportion. A group of three slender Eucalyptus against shrubby Melaleucas
with some prostrate Grevilleas at their feet makes a pleasing composition.
The combinations are almost endless—Ilimited only by your imagination.

For paths, use coarse sand, scoma or fine gravel. Flat rocks make good
natural steps. Used railway sleepers (if vou can get them) are also useful.
Never, never use concrete.

Although the initial work in establishing a landscaped bush garden is
greater than for conventional lawns and shrubs, your future garden will be
more reloxing, with minimum maintenance, ecologically sound and very
Australian.

The joy of strolling through a bush garden, smelling the gum leaves,
feeling the textures of rock and bark, hearing the rustle of leaves overhead
and underfoot, with shy but beautiful flowers of every colour to admire,
is a truly wonderful, truly Australian experience that can so easily be yours.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CULTIVATION Page 147—Vol. 6

| A WILDFLOWER GARDEN

SMALL PLANTS FOR THE GARDEN by T. Stitt

The clay soils of eastern and northern Melbourne offer considerable
opportunity to grow o’variety of small plants. Some Western Australian plants
will probably require raised kess with a sand and mountain soil mixtura
(50:50 or more sand). But most small plants will grow successfully provided
there is about a foot of topsoil, a sunny posiion and water does not collect.
Also most plants seem to benefit from having a mulch, say of hardwcoa
<havings, bush litter, compost or cracked stone.

An attractive way to set oft small plants is to grow them in a raised
bed with small tree trunks as the retaining walls, rocks embedded in heaps
and the soil mixture added. Some people instead of spacing their plants,
plant a number in the one hole and this can look very pleasing, besides
providing mutual protection.

Many small plants, especially in a new garden will require staking
to prevent wind damage. Three small stakes diagonally around the trunk
or through the branches will do this. After watering in, most plants need
regular deep watering for their first summer (say weekly) but after that
only on cool days after a dry spell. Probably the best time to prune is
April, May, September and October. Most plants bznefit from pruning, two-
thirds of their new growth off, after flowering.

GROUND COVERS—To conserve surface moisture and give a pleasing
appearance to the ground surface of the garden there are a number of
creepers and ground hugging plants well worth growing.

Kennedya—K. prostrata, a creeper with a big red-orange flower, will
cover about five feet and likes a shavings mulch. K. rubicunda with dull
ruslty flowers is much more vigorous and likes a damp, sunny position.
K. eximia is a neater, slighter creeper that also likes mulch and sun.

Two local creepers are Hardenbergia violacea with rich purple flowers
and Billardiera scanden. with its neat, serrated yellow bells.

Damper positicns are suvitable for Clematis aristata, a creeper with
long variegated serrated leaves and big cream flowers; Mazus pumilio, a
slow spreader with blue and white flowers and maidenhair fern, Adiantum
aethiopicum, tor a shaded area.

Suckering plants for damp, open positions—Viola hederacea makes an
impressive display with dozens of its blue and white flowers standing up at you
in a four foot area. Mentha australis is also capable of covering a large
area and the strong menthol flavour of its crushed leaves is overpowering.
Other suckering plants for damp positions are Brachycome multifida, a small
pink-flowered daisy with dainty leaves, the ferny-leaved Cotula filicula,
Isotoma fluviatilis, with blue-tinged flowers, Scleranthus biflorus, an intriguing
green cushionary mass and the yellow flowered Goodenia hederacea.

Dichondra repens is a plant that has possibilities in that it can be
walked on and even mown and can be used to replace grass, especially
for paths.



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RALIAN PLANT

Photography by P. N. Ellis
DAMPIERA LANCEOLATA—'"'Grooved Dampiera’’

Dampieras have an attractive mass of blue flowers, which last for several months. D. cuneata
and D. diversifolia sucker freely. D. rosmarinifolia and D. trigona var. latealata, with its
shaped stems do well.

Scaevola—*‘‘Fan Flowers” are similar, but may not be quite as hardy. Most have blue
to violet flowers. Some to try are Scaevela striata, S. macroearpa and S. ramossissima.



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AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CULTIVATION Page 149

A WILDFLOWER GARDEN

Sept., 1971



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Page 150—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS FOR THE GARDEN Sept., 1971

SMALL PLANTS THAT HUG THE GROUND

For sunnier positions, Pultenaea peduncularis covers four feet or more
and has a rich mass of bacon and egg flowers. For a hot position, Jasminum
lineare provides a strong but not too far reaching perfume.

Wabhlenbergia consimilis has a definite, light blue flower and is good
for a hot, dry position. This bluebell flowers for aiong time over summer,
then dries out and reappears in spring.

Disphyma australe, the horned-leaved moonflower, laces quietly between
shrubs and has pink flowers in late spring.

Hemiandra pungens, with its spotted pink mint-bush like flowers grows
steadily to about four feet provided it has sun and a shavings mulch. A
quicker ground cover is Frankenia pauciflora which has neat pink flowers and
tiny grey foliage. It prefers a slightly shaded position.

Eutaxia microphylla, a prostrate form, covers about a yard and has rich
bacon and egg flowers. It does well in a dry position.

Astroloma humifusum, the red-flowered ““Cranberry Heath”, is a slow
creeper, good for covering rocks. Plants from drier inland areas have a
richer foliage.

Lechenaultia are among Western Australian plants that do well in raised
sandy beds, especially against a north-facing wall. They can be grown in
pure sand but need to be staked. More species are being grown now,
with some degree of success—you need to be prepared to replace them
after several seasons. They grow readily from cuttings. Besides L. biloba,
with its different forms of blue flowers and L. formosa with its red flowers,
you might like to grow L. formosa aurea, a long-flowering yellow form and
L. linarioides.

Poa australis is one plant that has a wide appeal. This native grass
grows in clumps; the aloine form has a striking blue-grey colour.

Lily-like plants can be used to provide variety of flowers and foliage.
They are hardy and adaptable. Dianella tasmanica has striking blue flowers
with prominent yellow stamens, followed by purple berries; Diplarrena moraea
has floppy white flowers with yellow and purple markings. Patersonia
longiscapa has purple flowers and Orthrosanthus multiflorus a series of blue
flowers clasping the stem. Calectasia cyanea is shown on page 144.

There are a wide range of ground covers that can be used to thread
their way between shrubs and under trees. Low, strong-growing Grevilleas
include G. gaudichaudii with its rich foliage and red flowers, G. acanthifolia
which doesn’t like it too wet, G. thelemanniana, having a striking form with
deep red flowers and grey foliage and G. steiglitziana, an adaptable plant
provided it has some sun and attractive with its hanging red flowers and
holly foliage. The prostrate forms of G. juniperina can have red, yellow
or brown flowers and like a damo position with some sun.

There are a number of low-growing, long flowering Grevillea. Grevillea
alpina, with a number of different flower colours—white, yellow, red, mixed—
grows well in shallow soils. It likes a mainly sunny position and is adaptable
to moderate drainage. The better forms of G. rosmarinifolia, say with a glowing
pink flower can take slightly more shade. G. lavandulacea with its deep red
flowers spreads slightly, likes a reasonable amount of sun and good drainage.
G. bipinnatifida has large dull red hanging flowers and is moderately hardy.
G. baveri, with red flowers, is a hardy plant that likes partial shade; it also
spreads a little. Other attractive Grevillea are G. dimorpha, G. chrysophaea
with big yellow flowers, G. lanigera, G. parviflora with pink and white
flowers, G. capitellata and G. fascicularis with orangy-red flowers.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS FOR THE GARDEN Page 151—Vol. 6

BORONIA - CORREA - ERIOSTEMON

I have found the, smaller Boronia difficult to establish. They probably
need a damper, more sheltered position than | have given them. Boronia
serrulata is slow growing and brittle, but worth waiting for. Others you
may like to try are Boronia filifolia with its red stems, B. spathulata, B. pilosa,
B. anemonifolia and B. gracilipes. See page 159.

Correas are hardy} long-flowering plants. C. mannii has large red tubular
flowers and can spread to four feet and can grow in deep shade. The
varieties of C. reflexa need a little more sun.

Correa alba has a strong white stem-shaped flower and is hardy and
grows particularly well in coastal areas.

Correa pulchella has orange or red flowers and is low growing but
spreads and needs a sunny position with moisture for best results.

Wax-flowers are usually difficult to establish but Eriostemon myoporoides
is adaptable and hardy. The smaller E. verrucosus seems to need a sunny
well-drained position.

Melaleuca, the smaller species, are also worthwhile. Outstanding are
the hardy “claw-flowers” Melaleuca thymifolia and M. pulchella, both having
deep mauve flowers, the first in clusters, the second more sparsely amongst
neat greyish foliage. M. thymifolia will flower in deep shade. See pp. 180.

Prostanthera—P. aspalafhoides with either orange or red flowers, several
times a year, grows well in a sunny, open position. See cover colour plate.
P. incisa rosea has pink flowers and small crinkly leaves; P. violacea has
deeper flowers and smaller foliage; P. cuneata has big blotched white
flowers; care needs to be taken not to water the plant when the sun is
on it. Low growing P. empetrifolia has long-lasting mauve flowers.

Rhododendron lochae will grow well, if you provide rich soil with
plenty of humus and a cool sheltered position, producing large red trumpet
flowers.

Chorizema cordatum, a red, orange and yellow pea flower is long
flowering, even in shade. It likes mulch.

Epacris—E. longiflora with its hanging line of white-tipped red flowers
is adaptable, provided it doesn’t have too much shade. Epacris impressa
(Common Heath) looks magnificent if developed into clumps throughout the
garden, especially the red or pink forms. It likes a damp, well-drained
position with slight shade.

Tetratheca can have mauve or white flowers and are small plants
that like slight shade. T. ciliata and T. ericifolia are similar in habit.

The small form of Baeckea ramossissima is long-flowering, with some deep
pink shades, and the plants like mulch. It is adaptable to the amount of sun.

Everlasting daisies also do well in a sunny position. The slightly
spreading Helichrysum bracteatum can have rich gold flowers or lemon
or with a pinkish tinge. The smaller H. baxteri has white flowers and a
yellow centre. One form of H. semi-papposum has soft grey foliage and
rich yellow flowers.

Eremophila also like a well-drained, sunny position. Try E. gibbifolia
with small mauve flowers, E. maculata aurea (yellow) and E. polyclada,
with its large spotted white flowers. See page 184.

Verticordia do well in protected, sunny raised beds, particularly V.
plumosa and V. acerosa; others are being tried with mixed success.

Beaufortia and Eremaea like a similar situation. Smaller Beaufortias
being grown include B. purpurea and B. schaueri. Eremaea beaufortioides
is slow to flower but its delicate orange flower and perfume is worth waiting
for.



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Page 152—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—WATTLES Sept., 1971

Several small Acacia for sunny, dry positions are Acacia acinacea with
its arching, blossom-smothered branches; A. mitchelli, a summer-flowerer;
A. brownii, A. cuneata and three with varying prickliness; A. aculeatissima,
A. pulchella, both dainty and thorny, and A. continua with its large, dark
yellow balls. A. glaucoptera, o low-growing spreading plant, has rich coloured
new growth and winged foliage.

Al oLl AR
DUST WATTLE—ACACIA ACINACEA

GOLD

I have by no means mentioned all the small native plants available,
or yet to be tried. | would advise you to visit the native plant gardens in
your town, see what you like and develop your own distinctive combination.

Good luck.

“PRICKLY MOSES""—ACACIA VERTICILLATA

A larger wattle commonly found in the Victorian Grampians.



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AUSTRALIAN PL > Page 153—Vol

ACACIA FLEXIFOLIA

Numerous wattles that will enhance your garden are described on
Small shrubs with a growth habit of that above are particularly valuable.

Photography by P. Ellis

the next page



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Page 154—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—WATTLES Sept., 1971

ACACIAS FOR MELBOURNE GARDENS

by F. J. C. Rogers

Wattles belong to the genus Acacia. It is a very large genus numbering
in excess of 650 Australian species, with many moreé awaiting discovery in
some of the remoter areas of our country. Western Australia has more than
300 species, while New South Wales and Queensland lay claim to about 200
species each, Northern Territory has in excess of 120 species and South
Australia and Victoria record about 90 species each. Tasmania has the
least with 18 species of which 2 are endemic and the rest occur in the
mainland states.

Because there is such a huge number of species it is possible to choose
a suitable plant for all but the deeply shaded or wet positions. Wattles as a
rule are plants which are plentiful in much of the landscape of interior
Australia. We have even accepted the aboriginal words for some of the
wattles not only to signify species but to refer to specific types of country
e.g. mulga and myall.

The foliage of wattles shows great diversity. This may range from true,
or bipinnate, or feathery, leaves to the leaf-like structures known as phyllodes.
These may be needle-like and up to 22 inches long as in Acacia longiphyllodinea
to the broad phyllode a foot to eighteen inches wide as in A. dunnii. Many
wattles have a sharp spine protruding from the leaf bases and this may
help make them very useful hedge plants.

Wattles are very useful plants for many gardens because they are
pioneer plants which may be removed after a few years during which
time they may condition the soil and make it possible to grow mo-e difficult
plants.

With care wattle plants will give a rewarding display with masses of
blossom, but do not forget that many also have attractive foliage. Most
respond to some pruning, which is usually done during or after flowering.

The following is a brief introduction to these wonderful plants.

SMALL SHRUBS

Acacia brownii, a dainty dwarf about 2 feet high, with small (%")
sharp phyllodes; likes an open, dry position; ball flowers appear during spring.

Acacia continua has intricate foliage with phyllodes almost like small
hooks, forms a dense shrub 2 to 3 feet high and bears some of the largest
deep yellow ball flowers in early spring; likes a warm dry position.

Acacia drummondii one of the most beautiful of the small acacias
with soft bipinnate foliage and golden rod flowers; prefers an open well-
drained position; usually a shrub 3 to 4 feet high and wide but some forms
may be nearer 8 feet high while others are prostrate.

Acacia flexifolia a small, dense rounded shrub about 4 feet high
with small phyllodes and pale yellow flowers during winter; likes a well-
drained position.

Acacia pulchella small shrub with soft bipinnate foliage but very sharp
spines; large deep yellow ball flowers on a shrub 4 to 5 feet high.

Acacia strigosa, dainty dwarf with soft bipinnate leaves; height 2 to 3
ft. Ball flowers during spring.

Editor’s Note: Previous issues have described 116 species under various headings such as
‘“Queensland’s Wattles””, ‘‘Central Australian Acacia’’, ‘““South Australian Species”, “N.S.W.
Wattles”’, ‘‘Tasmanian Wattles’’, ‘““Small Acacia For Rock Gardens’. ‘‘Acacia for the Seaside’’,

‘““Acacia for Clay or Heavy Soils” etc. Such easily grown wildflowers should be in every
garden. You can easily grow some from seed as described opposite.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—WATTLES Page 155—Vol. 6

LARGE SHRUBS

Acacia boormanii, Snowy River Wattle, a fine foliage plant which
grows well in the heavy soils; reaches 8 to 12 feet high and wide with ball
flowers during late winter and early spring.

Acacia glandulicarpa, Hairy-pod Wattle, a unique Victorian species;
does well in heavy soils where it forms a hemispherical shrub 4 to 5 feet
high and 5 to 6 feet wide; ball flowers spring.

Acacia howittii, another Victorian species this time from a small area in
Gippsland; forms a shrub 10 to 12 feet or more high with soft, sticky phyllodes
and pale ball flowers during late spring.

Acacia iteaphylla, dense shrub, with deep yellow flowers from early
winter; may reach 10 to 12 feet or more in height and width.

Acacia leprosa, Cinnamon Wattle has fine, slender, weeping foliage on
a shrub about 12 feet high; foliage has a sweet fragrance particularly after
rain at certain times of the year.

Acacia spectabilis is an open large shrub to about 12 feet with
bipinnate leaves and large ball flowers in early spring.

Acacia vestita, Weeping Boree, a lovely weeping species for a dry,
warm position; flowers in early spring; height about 12 feet; phyllodes small
and soft.

SMALL TREES

Acacia baileyana, Cootamundra Wattle, widely planted because of its
bluish bipinnate foliage; height 15 to 20 feet; flowers about July; responds
to pruning.

Acacia adunca, a narrow-leaved species to about 20 feet with attractive
foliage and ball flowers early spring.

Acacia decurrens. Early Black Wattle reaches 20 to 30 feet high; has
fine dark-green bipinnate foliage; deep yellow ball flowers in early spring.

Acacia podalyriaefolia, Mt. Morgan Wattle, an open species to about
15 feet with bluish foliage; early flowering spring; likes plenty of warmth.

Acacia pravissima, Oven’s Wattle, an open intricate plant with stiff,
small almost triangular phyllodes; grown for foliage as well as ball flowers
during spring; height 15 feet.

Acacia longifolia, Sallow Wattle, small fast growing tree to 20 feet
with rod-like flowers during spring.

Acacia retinodes, Wirilda, a very fast growing species from 15 to 20
feet; has ball flowers throughout most of the year particularly Feb., Sept.

Acacia saligna, Golden Wreath Wattle, has very long phyllodes and
some of the largest ball flowers which may be a deep yellow, almost orange,
usually during October; height 12 feet.

Acacia acuminata (Raspberry Jam) and A. doratoxylon (Currawong) are
two similar species with narrow phyllodes and large yellow rod-like flowers
during spring.

PROPAGATION

As described in previous issues wattles are particularly easy to grow from seed. Place the
seed in a cup and pour boiling water over them. Allow them to soak until they swell in
2-6 days. Plant in a pot of clean coarse sand to !4’ deep. Put a piece of glass on top
until they germinate, keeping the sand moist and the pot in a sunny position out of the wind.

ACACIA STUDY GROUP

Study groups comprise readers who contact each other through a leader usually by
mail. They exchange seeds, plants and experiences. If you would like to join the Acacia Study
Group send a stamp addressed envelope to Mrs. I. B. Armitage, 410 Anembo Road, Terrey
Hills, N.S.W. 2084. Do you know that there are more than 600 Acacia species in Australia,
many ideal for garden -cultivation.



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Page 156—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Sept., 1971

CORREA

by W. Rodger Elliot, Montrose, Vic.

If you are looking for a pleasing clump of green foliage in your garden,
and flower for a long period, you will go a long way to find a better group of
plants than the Correas. A planting of 4 or 5 Correas will provide year-round
flowering and colours can be cream, green, lemons, pink, vermillion and
numerous shades of red, many having green or yellow tips. There are also some
interesting and unusual flower forms such as C. bauverlennii, the “Chef's
Cap Correa”.

Ranging in height from prostrate groundcovers to small trees, Correa
are excellent in attracting native honey-eating birds, as the tubular bell-like
flowers contain copius supplies of nectar, often at times of the year when
the supply thereof in the garden is somewhat limited. Most tubular flowers
are, incidentally, excellent for their nectar supply.

Photography by Ron Hill

CORREA REFLEXA



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Page 157—Vol. €

Correas will grow under many types of soil and weather conditions e.g.
C. alba will grow under extreme coastal conditions, whilst C. reflexa grows
in a number of adverse situations.

The Correa belongs to the Rutaceae family which has as fellow members
the Boronia, Asterolasia, Phebalium, Eriostemon, Crowea, Ziera and Citrus etc.

The following are, species which | have propagated and grown under
nursery conditions:-

Correa aemula. Scrambling plant which appreciates a moist, shady
location; growing to 4 ft. and spreading 4-6 ft. Leaves are hairy and flowers
green, turning purple with age. S.A. and Grampians Vic.

C. aemula x C. reflexa. A natural hybrid growing in the Grampians.
Pinkish bells with green tip. Will stand semi-shaded to open position.

Correa alba. Bushy plant to 3-4 ft. x 4 ft. wide. Rounded smooth green
leaves being about 12" long. This species differs from all others by having
white star-like flowers in summer, the corolla tube having split into four
petals. Grows naturally on N.S.W., Vic. and Tas. coastlines. Other forms of
this plant in cultivaticn are (i) pale pink flowered form, (ii) low form to
about 1 ft. high, spreading 3 ft. Leaves are quite hairy and rusty in
appearance, (iii) a very compact form, 2 ft. x 2 ft.

Correa backhousiana. A larger growing plant 3-6 ft. x 5 ft. generally,
but can grow 12-15 ft. tall in shaded areas. Adaptable to most conditions. Dark
green oval foliage. Cream to pale green bells. Tas.

Correa baverlenii. A hardy shrub with unique greenish yellow bells
about 1” long, with a flat calyx. Grows to 3-6 ft. x 4 ft. wide. S.E. N.S.W.

Correa calycina. This plant grows well in dense shade, even in dryish
soil conditions. Has green flowers in winter-spring and grows 4-5 ft. x 6 ft.
There are reports of this Correa growing to 8 ft. under natural conditions. S.A.

Correa decumbens. A very hardy prostrate to semi-prostrate plant,
spreading 4-5 ft. Has narrow leaves and narrow upturned red bells with
green tips in summer. This plant is useful as a ground cover for banks and
semi- to densely-shaded flat areas. S.A.

Correa glabra. A plant of variable form, especially in regard to the
leaf which can vary from narrow to broad ovate. With green bells in winter,
this very adaptable plant will withstand drvness for periods during the year,
and grows 4-6 ft. x 4 ft. Qld., N.S.W., Vic., Tas.

Correa mannii. A hardy hybrid originating in a Melbourne garden,
this long flowering plant has salmon-red bells approx. 1” x 3/8” from
autumn to early spring. Has deep green foliage. Height 4 ft. x 4 ft. wide.

Correa lawrenciana var. lawrenciana. This plant can grow to small
tree proportions. The narrow flowers aporox. 1” long vary from reddish
to buff-cream in colour. leaves are 2-3” lona x 1” wide. This Correa grows
best in a cool, moist, sheltered position. N.S.W., Vic., Tas.

C. lawrenciana var. rosea. A lovely red flowered form growing only
in the alpine areas of the Snowy Mountains in N.S.W. and Victoria. 4-8 ft. x
5 ft. wide. Narrow leathery leaves. Likes semi-shade and summer moisture.

Correa pulchella. Here is a plant of many forms, some prostrate, others
forming a clump 2 ft. x 4 ft. wide, or even climbing in certain locations.
It bears small orange to vermillion bells in winter and is hardy under most
conditions. S.A.



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Page 158—Vol. 6 AUSI'RALIAN PLANTS—RUI'ACEAE Sept., 1971

Correa reflexa. The most variable of all the Correas, growing naturally
under all imaginable conditions from shady gullies to desert areas. The
leaves vary greatly in size and the bell shaped corollas take many forms,
varying in colcur from creamy green with cream tip, green, or various
shades of red with yellow or green tips. Plants which | have propagated
and grown (all of ditferent physical character) have been from the following
areas of Vic. The Big Desert; Little Desert: Yanakie, near Wilson’s Promontory
(2 forms); Anglesea; Lakes Entrance; Briagalong; Warrnambool; Grampians;
the Dandenongs; Dutscn; The Brisbane Ranges (8 different forms) and Ararat.

Correa reflexa—Anglesea form. This form has narrow corolla, red with
green tip, approx. 1” long and with the green flowered form with relatively
large oval foliage from the Brisbane Ranges, has proved the most vigorous
under cultivation. A low spreading form with a squat red and green bell has
proved a good grower also.

Correa reflexa—Ararat and Dutson forms. Possibly the most spectacular
with a large deep red corolla with green tip. The species from Dutson is a
variety known as C. reflexa var. cardinalis, whose flowers seem to “light” the
whole bush, especially on a dull day. This plant grows 3-4 ft. x 4-5 ft. wide.

Correa reflexa—Grampians forms. These are also very attractive,
tending to be rather sparsely foliaged and thus showing their flower to full
advantage. One of the main disadvantages with some forms, is that flowers
tend to be hidden behind leaves which cling beside the corolla.

C. reflexa grows best in a position with filtered sunlight generally,
and moist soil conditions for the majority of the year, although as previously
mentioned, plants can be found growing well in many positions, including
full sun and dry soil conditions.

Correa schlechtendalii. A bushy plant with grey-green foliage, growing
to 3-5 ft. x 4 ft. The small flowers, being red with yellow/green tips, are
produced over the summer period and sometimes into autumn. A very hardy
and adaptable plant supplying nectar for honey-eating birds in the summer
months.

Cultivation

All Correas respond well to “tip pruning” as they grow, thus establishing
a bushy plant. They also respond to light doses of slow release fertilizers
e.g. blood and bone, once or twice per year. There is a tendency for plants
to be sometimes attacked by sooty mould and scale but these can be
remedied safely, by the application of white oil spray mixed with Clensel
or Carbaryl, as per manufacturer’s directions.

One of the advantages of Correas is that they can be fitted into an
established garden with little effort, as they do not need large areas in
which to grow, so next time you pull out an overgrown weed which has
been thriving under your established shrubs, or next time you are thinking
about that somewhat shaded area alongside the house where not a large
number of plants will grow, it may be the spot for a Correa.

WILDFLOWERS OF WILSON’S PROMOTORY

This 192 page book is the result of years of rambling over the national park by the
author Ros. Garnet. A thorough and practical naturalist Ros says: ‘“The book is offered to
those who, with no particular knowledge of the technicalities of botany, wish to know
something abont the hosts of wildflowers that may be seen during a sojourn in the park’.
Every plant species known to have been found in the area is recorded in an annotated
checklist and the more common ones illustrated by photographs and hundreds of accurate
line drawings showing plant, flowers, leaf shape and variations, etc. Of special value is a
stroll along ‘‘Seakers Cove Track’ or ‘“Tongue Point Track’ with the author as he describes
the scene as seen by a competent naturalist. Price $5.25 plus 15c¢ postage.



@@@ 19 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Page 159—Vol. 6

BORONIA

BORONIA AND OTHER RUTACEAE by R. M. Raid

Boronia are popular with most people so that it is encouraging to
find species that are quite hardy. With the worst kind of clay soil possible,
and a position facing west where winds blow off the Keilor Plains, conditions
on my block would not be considered ideal. However quite a number of
the Rutaceae family have been growing over the past twelve years.

Various soils were brought over the years ranging from sandy loam
to rich mountain soil, and as the block is flat the beds were raised to
improve drainage. This is ideal in wet weather but poses quite a problem
in drought conditions.

Added to this our average rainfall is less than 20” per year. During
the drought a couple of years ago many grew on with only weekly watering
with a bucket. Some were even better as they had individual attention.

Boronia crenulata grew on happily and continued to sucker as this
form has done over more than 10 years. Suckers grow from mature plants after
what appears to be some surface scratching by blackbirds and the disturbance
by removing weeds.

Boronia megastigma var. virtuoso is extremely hardy, particularly in
heavier type soil such as river soil. | have tried it in all types of soil but
river soil proved superior to sandy loams. | have never lost a plant due
to dryness but only to pests such as scale and sooty mould or snails ring-
barking plants.

Other hardy Boronias are Boronia tetrandra, a greenish yellow flower,
B. heterophylla, B. deanii, B. elatior (the heavy form), B. denticulata, B.
megastigma var. lutea, B. fastigiata and B. pinnata. Even B. serrulata grows
happily if given reasonable conditions such as a stone at its root system to
keep them cool, and a reasonable amount of sunlight.

Boronia juncea grew like weeds from seed but gradually all died out
in the garden, it is an almost leafless plant with terminal flowers.

Boronia mollis and B. fraseri grew for a number of years and finally
died b2cause of competition from other plants, but B. mollis is not hard
to strike from cuttings so is easily replaced.

Boronia microphylla is in my opinion one of the loveliest and seems
cuite hardy if given some shelter, but plants are not very easy to obtain.

Boronia pilosa has been seen growing in very dry conditions and
also very damp spots in their natural habitat but | find it very difficult in
the garden.

PROPAGATION

Cuttings of most Boronia taken just after Christmas strike better in my
cold frame than any other time, providing there is not a sudden burst of
heat.

ERIOSTEMON
Eriostemon lanceolatus must be a favourite of the Rutaceae perhaps
because | remember the way it grew in great profusion where | lived as a

child. The long dry winter soells we had helped me to understand what the
plant may need. | feel sure once small plants become established they will
withstand dry conditions. Two plants | have had in my garden over 10 years
appeared to be dying but revived with many buckets of water and are still
growing and flower each vear.



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Page 160—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAL Sept., 1971

Eriostemon spicatus is a lovely dainty plant but | find it difficult to
keep growing.

Eriostemon nodiflorus looks very similar to E. spicatus except for the
flower arrangement. It strikes readily from cuttings but is not as desirable
as a beautiful blue form which is much rarer.

Crowea make lovely garden plants being compact and flowering when
there aren’t many flowers in the garden. Crowea angustifolia has proved
difficult to grow but Crowea saligna is quite hardy if it has some shelter and
strikes quite readily from cuttings taken during flowering time. The large
flowered form of Crowea exalata is even more hardy and extremely easy
to strike from cuttings.

Zieria cytisioides is hardy and has rather nice grey foliage with pink
flowers and grows readily from seed.

Zieria aspalathoides has dainty pink flowers and foliage and will
grow easily from cuttings.

Zieria veronicea—I| have seen growing in the Little Desert and |
thought it was one of the loveliest plants you could wish to see—simply
covered with pink foliage. However the only plant | have is in my new
garcden on Lake Eildon where it is doing very well with once a week watering
during dry periods. It is right out in the open on a clay mound.

Chorileana quercifolia with its rough oak shaped leaves and pendant
light green flowers, is very hardy and makes a good background shrub.

Diplolaena grandiflora has bracts and stamens more reddish but
quite similar. The plants are easy to propagate but seem to require an even
supply of water during summer or they will die very quickly.

Most plants of the family Rutaceae are worthy of trial.

VICTORIAN BORONIAS

BORONIA WITH PINNATE LEAVES by Jean Galbraith

Two very attractive species of the pinnata group of boronias are native
to Victoria, Boronia muelleri Cheel (which looks very like B. thujona and
B. floribunda both of N.S.W.), and B. latipinna Willis which is a more
solid-looking plant with heavier leaves, endemic, so far as is known, in
the Victorian Grampians. B. pilosa Labill. “Hairy Boronia”, though closely
related, could not be mistaken for any other south-eastern species.

Boronia muelleri Cheel, Pink Boronia, is one of the daintiest species
in the group, usually shell-pink but ranging from white to deep pink, with
fragrant aromatic pinnate foliage, ranging in habit from dwarf in rocky
dry sclerophyll forest where it is rarely 2’ high, to tall (up to 20’) in cool
wet sclerophyll forest where the rainfall is high and the soil carries a deep
layer of humus. It usually flowers earlier than B. thujona from which it can
be distinguished at once by its pleasant fragrance and more erect branchlets.
It is distinguished from B. pinnata by its non-apiculate anthers (i.e. anthers
without conspicuous little points); from B. floribunda by its small stigma
(much smaller than the ovary) and from B. safrolifera by its branches quite
without hairs.

The delicate pink flowers are usually more cupped than in other
species and often a little smaller. It takes kindly to cultivation if given a
cool, well-drained but not dry position.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—RUTACEAE Page 161—Vol. 6

Boronia latipinna Willis has so far as | know no common name but
might well be called Grampians Boronia or Winged Boronia. It is at once
distinguished from all the related species by its firm thick leaflets, joined
at the base by a green wing on the rhachis (midrib).

Its flowers are large and bright pink, only rarely white or pale pink,
and it is a robust plant with relatively thick strong branches, growing
amongst rocks on several Grampians mountains, usually near the summit
in peaty soil amongst rocks.

The one plant | have grown flowered well for some years but died
during a dry summer. Though growing in high well-drained positions it
is probably accustomed to constant underground moisture.

Boronia pilosa Labill. has more or less velvety stems while the other
two are without hairs, and it has much smaller, but very abundant flowers.
It is also distinctive because it has very narrow (often almost threadlike)
leaflets, usually in threes but occasionally more, or less.

In the Victorian Grampians, especially on peaty mountain tops, the
leaflets are so crowded that they look almost moss-like, concealing the
stems, and thickly dotted with wide-open little pink stars.

Near Portland, and in Tasmania, the foliage is more open and the
plant looser, with the narrow foliage almost concealed in spring by the
axillary clusters of little pink stars.

| have grown both forms, and both are most attractive, but | have lost
all that were planted in clay after a year or two at the most; though
one in sand, and half shade, with protective rocks at the root, has flowered
well for five years. The plants in clay were also in fuller sunshine so
it was not necessarily the clav that did not suit them.

An unusually tall form of Hairy Boronia (up to 12° high) grows in East
Gippsland, where it is rare. It has slightly broader leaflets and narrower
petals than the more typical forms.

Boronia ledifolia J. Gay, of N.SW. also grows in eastern Victoria
(Snowy and Tambo Rivers) but though it usually has trifoliate leaves it does
not belong to the “pinnata group” and is very distinct, with broader leaflets,
shining above, and flowers in hairy calyces.

Boronia filifolia F. Muell. comes into far western Victoria, but it only
occasionally has pinnate leaves, and though somewhat like B. pilosa it is
without hairs, has terminal flowers, and leaves usually more stalk-like.

BIRDS IN THE NATIVE GARDEN

by W. H. King

Our garden is situated at South Warrandyte, a semi-rural area 18 miles
east of Melbourne. In 1963 a large portion of the original garden was
cleared of exofic trees and shrubs and replanted with Australian native
plants, the prime purpose being to retain local birds in an area which is
undergoing rapid clearing and development. Since this time the native
garden has been extended to cover more than one acre and incorporates a
dam situated on the property.

The success of the garden is reflected in the number of different species
of native birds recorded. Of these thirty to forty are found in the garden
throughout the whole year, almost an equal number are of seasonal occurrence,



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Page 162—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS FOR BIRDS Sept., 1971

and we also have casual visitors. There has been no artificial feeding of
birds and no interference from domestic pets.

Birds are attracted to the garden basically for shelter and food. Shelter
and protection are provided by such plants as Acacia, Hakea, Prostanthera,
Melaleuca, Callistemon and smaller eucalypts. These are bushy with dense
foliage and added protection is afforded by planting in clumps. This has
happened naturally with Acacia boormani which ‘has suckered freely.
Several species of native birds have nested in these thickets, some nests not
being discovered until no longer in use. The spotted pardalotes have even
tunnelled their nest holes and reared their young in a heap of mountain soil
purchased for the garden.

Many of the plants are nectar producing and are particularly attractive
to the honeyeaters. Twelve honeyeaters have been recorded in the garden
including the Crescent, Regent and Yellow-faced Honeyeaters, species rarely
seen in this area. Brush tongued lorikeets have been observed feeding on
blossoms of the Eucalyptus camaldulensis—the River Red Gum—which domin-
ates the garden.

Plants of the family Myrtaceae which include the genera Callistemon,
Calothamnus, Eucalyptus, Kunzea, Melaleuca and the family Proteaceae such
as Banksia, Dryandra, Grevillea and Hakea are found to be most suitable for
attracting nectar feeding birds. Many other plants including Anigozanthos,
Correa, Eremophila and Epacris are long flowering and therefore provide
food over a long period. Although all Eucalypts have a great attraction
for the birds we have found E. leucoxylon, E. sideroxylon, E. caesia and
E. lehmannii to be among the most popular.

Care should be taken to enzure that there is an adequate supply of
natural food during all seasons, particu'arly in winter. The period of flowering
and the length of the flowering season are both important considerations.
Grevilleas are most suitable in this regard as a number of species e.g.
Grevillea juniperina, G. punicea, G. sericea and G. hookeriana are rarely
without flowers.

The Bronze-winged Pigeon eat the seeds of Acacia especially Acacia
baileyana, A. longifolia, A. pravissima and A. boormanii. Gang-gang Cocka-
toos, Crimson & Eastern Rosellas are seen in the garden in winter feeding
on -Eucalyptus fruits.

As well as being attractive, birds perform a useful function in helping
to control garden pests. Scale and aphids are taken by pardalotes, thornbills
and silver eyes while small caterpillars and other insects are kept in check
by such small birds as the blue wrens, willie wagtail, scissor grinder, yellow
robin and the fantails. The larger pests are taken by grey butcher birds,
grey thrushes and black faced cuckoo shrikes.

A number of water birds including the white-faced and white-necked
herons, the little pied cormorant and also an occasional nankeen night heron
are attracted to the dam presumably by its content of fish and frogs. Welcome
swallows feed regularly over the surface, while many birds particularly the
red wattle birds, white-plumed honeyeaters and noisy miners bathe in the
water.

Since the garden has been established we have noted several new
species and in addition the bird population in the vicinity of the house has
greatly increased.

Editor’s Note: Previous issues have described plants for all areas that encourage and

feed our native birds and give methods of feeding them from containers. We have a small
book on the subject available from the Editor for $2.10.



@@@ 23 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYRTACEAE Page 163—Vol. 5

GARDEN EUCALYPTS
EUCALYPTS FOR SOUTHZRN VICTORIAN GARDENS by E. E. Perkins

Eucalypts are the distinctive feature of Australian landscapes, and deserve
a prominent place in o/l gardens. If a!l of the indigenous eucalypts are gone
from the garden block, first thought should be given to replanting the local
species. Propagation is easy. Collect ripe nuts and place them in an open
jar for a week or so. The seed drops out and can be sown in autumn or
spring. Sowing methods do not seem to be critical. Sprinkle over a pot of
washed coarse sand and cover. Keep moist in partial sun. Transplant the
seedlings when about an inch high.

Eucalypts can be planted for a variety of effects. They can be chosen
for foliage, blossom, distinctive buds and fruit, ornamental trunk, for shelter,
or to attract birds. Many species grow to 10 ft. or less, and an average
cuburban block hos room for at least half a dozen evcalypts. | have seen
gardens nct overcrowded with 30 species.

There are hundreds of species to chocse from. The ones that are listed
here are hardy and should succeed near Melbourne in most soils.

BLUE LEAVED TREES

Many euvcalypts have roundish blue leaves when young. In most cases
they lose this foliage after a few years. Regular tip pruning is well worthwhile
and will help prevent the tree from bscoming straggly. In the growing
season particularly, pinch the tip out of each shoct. Blue leaved eucalypts
can be subject to insect attack. In most cases they can be cleaned up by
hand. A good hosing down can be effective with aphis.

Eucalyptus crenulata (Silver Gum) 30 ft. Its natural habitat is a
swamp in winter. In gocod conditicns it will grow more than a foot a month.
The leaves are small, tccthed and heart shaped, even in large trees.
White flowers.

Eucalyptus globulus (Blue Gum). It grows to a large tree. The juvenile
leaves and sucker leaves are most attractive. To keep these, cut off a few
inches from the ground each second or third September. The sucker leaves
grow very rapidly. E. bicostata is very similar.

Eucalyptus perriniana (Round-leaf Snow Gum) 20 ft. The juvenile
leaves are disc shaped, with the stalk growing through the centre. It responds
well to the cutting back described for the b'ue-gums. Other blue leaved
species worth trying are E. pulverulenta (Silver Mountain Gum) 15 ft., E. crucis
(Silver Mallee) 15 ft., and E. kruseana (Kruse mallee) 10 ft. E. cinerea (Argyle
Apple) grows to a large tree.

TREES WITH A WHITE TRUNK

Eucalyptus citriodora (Lemon Scented Gum) 50 ft. It is frost tender
when young. The resistance to frost varies from plant to plant. Even if
one is lost, it is worth trying again. Can be kept as a bush by very hard
pruning.

Eucalyptus pauciflora (Snow Gum) 25 ft. Often with a drooping habit.
A most attractive species which deserves being planted more widely.
Other large gums are E. saligna (Sydney Blue Gum), E. mannifera sp.
maculosa (Red Spoited Gum) and E. maculata (Spotted Gum).

TREES WITH VERY NARROW LEAVES

Eucalyptus spathulata (Swamp Mallet) 15 ft. Very hardy. Will grow
in very wet or dry conditions.



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Page 164—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYRTACEAE Sept., 1971

Eucalyptus nicholi (Willow Peppermint) 30 ft. Rough bark. Leaves in
spring take on a very attractive reddish colour.

RED FLOWERING SPECIES

In most species, the colour is variable, and seed from the same tree
can produce colours ranging from deep red to white.

Eucalyptus ficifolia (Red Flowering Gum) 20 'ft. Frost tender when
young. It grows best near the sea. E. calophylla (marri) is similar, with pink
or white flowers, and is more frost resistant.

Eucalyptus caesia (gungurru) 15 ft. Perhaps the most beautiful eucalypt
of all. It can grow rapidly. The flower colour seems to be fairly constant.

Eucalyptus leucoxylon var. macrocarpa (Red Flowered Yellow Gum).
30 ft. Flowers over a long period in winter. An excellent bird tree.

Eucalyptus sideroxylon (Red Ironbark). Similar to E. leucoxylon, but
with black “ironbark”. The pink flowering, grey leaved form is best.

OTHER EUCALYPTS
Eucalyptus lehmanni (Bushy Yate) 20 ft. Yellow green flowers the size
of a clenched fist, over most of the year. The buds are fused together and
the caps are finger sized. E. megacornuta is similar but with warty buds.
Eucalyptus grossa (Phillips River Gum) 8 ft. Thick green leaves. Flowers
are large and yellow-green.

Eucalyptus papuana (Ghost Gum) — SEED FOR SALE
100 seeds for $1.00 — Peter Fannin, Bulli Road, Appin, 2560

BOOK REVIEWS

All books reviewed, in fact any book on wildflowers or the Australian scene are available
by mail only from the Editor, 860 Henry Lawson Drive, Picnic Point, N.S.W. 2213.
“THE WILDFLOWERS OF WILSON’S PROMONTORY’ —  Price $5.25 plus 15c postage
See page 158 for review.

‘““AUSTRALIAN NATIVE PLANTS FOR HOME GARDENS’—A. E. Brooks
Price $5.75 plus 20c postage
That a fourth edition of this book has been necessary, indicates how popular it has
been to those who want to grow wildflowers in their gardens. This latest edition is larger,
with more illustrations and is ideal for those people who are just beginning this fascinating
hobby. 176 pages, 80 illustrations (9 in colour).
“THE PRACTICAL HOME GARDENER”—T. R. N. Lothian Price $10.50 plus 25c¢ postage
This is the best general gardening book available on the market. The author is director of
the Botanic Garden, Adelaide. He has made a special study of the problem that confronts a
home gardener and his advice is sound and practical. This is the only general gardening
book that adequately considers the problems encountered by the people in the country,
especially the drier areas and the only one that adequately refers to the Australian flora and
uses it extensively in dry area planting.

“INTRODUCTION TO THE FINE STRUCTURE OF PLANT CELLS’—Ledbetter & Porter
Price $14.80 plus $1.20 postage
This 190 page book, published in Germany, of the work of two distinguished American
scientists is to serve as a supplementary text to students of cell biology. Over fifty large
electron micrographs (black and white photographic observations through an electron microscope)
of cell types from higher plants are presented. Each plate is accompanied by a description,
simplified by the use of markers overprinted on the photographs, describing the salient
features, structure and function of the type of cell illustrated. A complex subject with all
the recent advances of world science presented in such a clear simple fashion.

“THE NORTHERN TERRITORY IN COLOUR’’—John Ross Price $3.95 plus 25c¢ postage
A 78 page (large page size 11’ x 8'2”’) containing principally full page beautiful colour
plates of all facets of life and scene in the Northern Territory. Tourists will find real value

in the last 15 pages devoted to the type of information they would want to know when
visiting the area.

JACARANDA COLOUR GUIDES — Price $1.95 each plus 20c postage
TREES OF AUSTRALIA by H. Oakman

This small pocket book proved so popular that it has been reproduced. though this
time in full colour. A marvellous 130 page guide to sixty species of our native trees. The
descriptions accompanying the colour plates are clear and accurate.

Other titles in the series available for a similar price are ‘‘Australian Butterflies”,
‘“‘Australian Minerals’’, ‘‘Australian Moths’, ‘‘Australian Native Gardens and Birds”, ‘““The
Australian Sky”’, ‘“Australian Weather”’, “Bush Birds of Australia’’, ‘““Corals of the Great Barrier
Reef’’, ‘““Freshwater Fishes’’, ‘‘Insects of Australia’’, ‘“Marine Fishes” (2 vols.), ‘‘Marsupials of
Australia’”’, ‘“‘Sharks and other Predatory Fish’’, ‘‘Shells of the Australian Sea Shore”,
‘““Snakes & Lizards’, ‘“‘Spiders of Australia’.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CULTIVATION Page 165—Vol. G

PLANNING A NATIVE GARDEN

by N. Kemble

First step in planning a native garden is to get a clear picture of the
type of garden you ‘want . . . the overall effect required. There are two
basic types of native garden—formal (lawns, beds, etc.) and natural. These
are both atiractive, simply make up your mind which type you want before
you start planting, it will save you a lot of work later.

Whatever your choice, there are a few basic factors to consider.
Remember—think, plan, visualise, before you act!

Everyone starts with some basic “raw material”, to which they add
certain selected elements to achieve a composition or total visual effect.
Rather like an artist painting a picture. And it can be just as creative and
satisfying.

The basic raw materials are—aspect, soil, levels, water and existing
growth.

Let’s consider each of these.

Aspect

There will be a dominant aspect which controls the amount of light and
sun your garden will get. North-west is sunnier and hotter than south-east.
Aspect can affect what you plant and where you plant.

Soil

Very few of us have perfect soil, but everyone can have a native garden.
Even the extremes of pure sand to pure clay, given the right attention,
can make a good garden. Preparation of the soil is a complete subject in
itself; suffice to say here—check your soil type, understand it and plan
accordingly. Previous issues will help you here.

Levels

Consider the natural fall of your block and see how it can be used to the
best advantage. Should it be terraced? (Use plenty of logs and rocks for this!)
Does the position of the drive effect the plan? If the block is flat, can it
be changed? Different levels make a native garden more interesting.
Water

If you can, study your block during a wet spell to see if there are
drainage problems, especially if you have clay soil. A few “aggie” pipes
laid before planting can save trouble and heartbreak from plant losses later on.
Natives generally don’t like “wet feet”.

Existing Growth

If you are fortunate enough to have a block with good trees, make
these the focal points of your garden. Think of the 20 years or so that
the trees have taken to grow and respect their age.

One or two large rocks can also make an interesting “centre piece”
so if your block already has them try to take advantage of this. A “difficult”
building block often makes the best native garden.

Don’t hand over to the rotary hoe until you're sure there are no useful
little shrubs creeping among the weeds. If there are any, save them.
Height and Sizes

Yes, not only height, but width, must be considered in the early stages.
Most of us “over-plant” because we are impatient. If the catalogue says
the shrub grows 6-8 ft. high, allow for a similar width.



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Page 166—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CULTIVATION Sept., 1971

Foliage

There is a wide range of leaf shapes and colours to choose from. Aim
for variety. Some trees have different juvenile to adult foliage.

Consider also the style of growth—a dense shrub makes a good foil
for a tall “leggy” specimen.
Blossom

Two factors to consider are season and colour. Careful planning can
give you something blooming all the year round.

A showy white Melaleuca between two crimson Callistemons (bottlebrush)
makes an excellent combination for spring-summer flowering.
Grouping

If you have a large garden, good effects can be obtained by grouping
several of the same species together.

Alternatively, group different shrubs and trees together to compliment
each other. Odd numbers make better groups than even numbers.

More importantly, enjoy planning and working in your garden. Think
creatively, use your imagination, “do your own thing”, but take the time to
understand the elements you're working with. You'll be amply rewarded.

GO NATIVE

HOW TO TRANSFORM A CONVENTIONAL GARDEN INTO A NATIVE ONE
by M. Fisch

The question often arises, “Can you tell me how to start to convert my
garden to Natives?”” You often see some garden, Australian plants here and
there, but dominated by Exotics, the owner admitting to prefer a Native
garden, but being hesitant to get rid of the older often very unsightly
trees and shrubs. He hopes to let the Natives grow and when they provide
shade, get rid of the old prunus or poplar or whatever is there.

I would advise anybody to make a clean sweep. After the second year,
even if you put in small plants, you will have some protection from wind,
sun, etc. Without the competition of old roots of still growing trees, the Natives
grow quicker and better and bushier. Another thing, it's much easier to chop
out old trees and bushes, if you don’t have to take care about ruining other
plants. Non suckering trees don’t have to be removed completely; if you leave
the stump it might protect your new plants and it can be made most attractive
overgrown with climbers such as Hardenbergias, Kennedyas, etc.

Cut down bigger limbs and trunks can be most useful for remodelling
your garden or just placed into strategic positions to protect your new
plants from dogs, cats, scratching blackbirds and neighbours’ kids. If you
have rocks for landscaping your environment, don’t “stick them up” like a
“sore thumb” or form “scalloped edges”. Place each stone or rock down the
way it looks most natural; a rock border can look so right or so terribly
wrong!

To fill in gaps between small shrubs and trees plant Australian annuals
during the first year. There is a lovely variety, such as Helichrysum, Helipterum,
Didiscus, etc.

Finally put down some mulch, use matured sawdust or bark, twigs,
gravel, etc.,, and watch the progress of your garden.

Enjoy ycur plants, in 3-4 years it will have shaded nooks and flowers to
gladden your heart and delight your native birds.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROTEACEAE Page 167—Vol. §

HAKEA

AS GROWN IN MELBOURNE GARDENS by F. J. C. Rogers

Hakeas belong to the plant family Proteaceae. There are about 130
species throughout Australia, with the majority being found in Western
Australia. They vary in size from small shrubs to small trees, while the leaf
shape varies from terete to broad with some species having very sharp prickles.
Many species are grown because of their aftractive foliage, particularly when
the foliage is young.

Hakea species are generally hardy but better results are usually obtained
by ensuring good drainage. The species described are well suited to Melbourne
gardens but could be equally successful in areas near the coast, or other
areas north of the Divide.

Hakea baxteri is a shrub of 6 to 15 feet in height with only a small
spread. The fan-shaped serrated leaves have attractive bronze tips on the
new foliage but the small cream to brown flowers during spring are often
unseen as they hide among the leaves.

Hakea bucculenta is only suited to a hot, well-drained position in
Melbourne gardens. It is a shrub from the sandy areas near Geraldton, W.A.
It has a height of 6 to 10 feet with a spread of 4 to 8 feet. Spikes of orange
to red flowers 3 to 6 inches long appear during spring.

Hakea corymbosa is a dense upright shrub with very stiff, pungent
foliage. Lime green flowers appear in terminal clusters during spring. It
grows from 4 to 8 feet high and 2 to 4 feet wide.

Hakea dactyloides is usually a small shrub of 10 feet or so in height.
It has broad flat leaves which have three prominent nerves. It has attractive
axillary flowers in late winter to early spring. Two forms are available.

Hakea gibbosa (syn. H. pubescens). This is one of the best shrubs to
use for a detour sign as the fine grey needle-like foliage which is soft while
young, soon matures and becomes very rigid with a fine pungent point. It
is dense to about 12 feet and bears white flowers.

Hakea laurina is the well-known “Pin Cushion Hakea”. It is grown
throughout most areas of Victoria where it makes a single trunked shrub
from 6 to 12 feet in height with much the same spread. The young foliage is
bronze-tipped while the red and cream pin-cushion like flowers appear
during May to June.

Hakea francisciana is a shrub which has recently been reseparated
from H. multilineata. It is very similar in habit and requirements, the main
points of which are good drainage and a warm position. It will reach 8 to
15 feet in height and has long narrow many veined leaves and long red
to orange flower spikes. Colour plate Vol. 5, pp. 337.

Hakea myrtoides is a spreading diffuse shrub of 1 to 2 feet with small
broad, sharply pointed leaves. Pink flowers appear along the branches.
Colour plate Vol. 5, pp. 376.

Hakea nitida is a large soreading shrub to 10 feet high and almost
as wide. It bears flat leaves and white flowers and is very hardy.

Hakea obtusa is a shrub to 6 feet hiah. Leaves are flat. and short,
rather like those of H. laurina. It bears pink to cream pin-cushion flowers
durina earlv soring.

Editor’s Note: Our No. 44 iseue is devoted princivallv to describing ard illustrating

species of Hakea and articles describe species from different States with a special article
on Victorian Hakea.

HAKEA STUDY GROUP—Those interested in joining the group and exchanging notes,
se~ds, etc., co-~tact Mr. Rovre Raleigh, 23 A-'ie Cres<cent, Montrose. Victoria.



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Page 163—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROTEACEAE Sept., 1071

Hakea orthorrhyncha (Bird Hakea) is a spreading shrub about 6 feet
high and wide. It has almost terete foliage which is often divided into several
segments. A plant will respond with better flowers if planted in a hot dry
position. Brilliant red flowers appear scattered along the old wood.

Hakea pycnoneura is a shrub up to 6 feet high with long, stiff, twisted,
deeply furrowed leaves. The cream and purple pin-cushion flowers appear
during winter.

Hakea platysperma has long terete foliage on a shrub from 3 to 8
feet. It grows well in a hot dry area. The large sparse white to yellow flowers
appear in spring but it is the very large, almost globular fruits which
attract attention.

Hakea purpurea (Qld. Crimson Hakea). This species grows better in
gardens north of the divide or where it receives warmth and dry conditions.
It is a shrub from 4 to 6 feet high with dark green short, fine much divided
foliage and masses of crimson flowers. Colour plate Vol. 5, pp 340.

Hakea prostrata (syn. H. glabella) is a variable shrub, often prostrate
or erect to about 10 feet. Leaves are broad and flat with edges prickly.
Flowers vary from greenish yellow to almost red and these are the most
attractive.

Hakea petiolaris is a large shrub to 15 feet in height and to about
10 feet across. It has broad leaves and purple pin-cushion flowers during
early winter. It is a hardy species and well suited to most areas.

Hakea salicifolia (syn. H. saligna) is a bushy small tree of 10 to 20
feet or more high. It bears flat leaves which in the young stage may be
bronze-coloured. Masses of white flowers appear during spring.

Hakea sericea (syn. H. tenuifolia) Silky Hakea is one of our hardiest
species. It will grow in almost any position even to that which is wet in
winter and very dry in summer. Foliage is short needle-like, with a sharp point.
Flowers vary, often being white, but pink or red flowered forms are also
available. The coloured forms usually flower a little later than the white,
which is about May. Height is about 6 to 12 feet.

Hakea sulcata and H. subsulcata are two similar species with long
narrow furrowed leaves and masses of purple to pink to white pin-cushion
flowers during early winter. Height varies from 3 to 5 feet.

Hakea suaveolens (Sweet Scented Hakea) is a useful hedge plant,
particularly in coastal areas. It makes a bushy shrub of 5 to 10 feet in
height and width. Foliage is dark green, fine and much divided. White scented
flowers appear scattered throughout the bush at most times of the year.

Hakea teretifolia is a hardy shrub of 4 to 8 feet. Leaves are thin and
rounded. White flowers appear along the stems during summer.

Hakea trifurcata is a large spreading shrub 8 to 12 feet high. It has
much divided terete foliage plus some broader leaves. Grey woolly flowers
with a reddish style appear during late winter to early spring.

Hakea verrucosa has needle-like pungent foliage, a spreading habit
and a height of 4 to 6 feet. Loose, red flowers appear during spring
scattered along the old wood. Colour plate Vol. 5, po. 377.

Hakea victoriae (Royal Hakea) is a large shrub 6 to 10 feet high and
4 to 6 feet across. It has very large, hard serrated, cup-shaped leaves
which at times become very beautifully coloured. It is a foliage plant well
suited to a hot dry position. The white flowers are deeply hidden in the
leaves. Colour plate Vol. 5, pp. 185.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—PROTEACEAE Page 169—Vol. 6

VICTORIAN GREVILLEA

GREVILLEA UNDER GARDEN CONDITIONS by M. Fisch

Though not as spectacular as some of the Grevilleas from other states,
Victoria has quite a few very attractive ones, adaptable for various garden
conditions, even in other states, where some of them naturally occur as well.
| was most impressed to see Grevillea steiglitziana flourishing in Queensland
besides northern Grevillea that we have not yet been able to grow well.

We have Grevilleas in all sizes, from ground-cover to sizeable trees.
Starting with the latter | would recommend:

Grevillea barklyana, with its very decorative leaves, deep green on
top, and silvery on the underside, often deeply lobed, almost resembling an
oak leaf. Flowers are pink, of the toothbrush variety, not very showy, but the
young leaves make up for it with their red to copper almost metallic sheen.
It thrives in cooler conditions. | have seen shapely ones exposed to winds.

Grevillea victoriae, also prefers a cool place; various forms exist, most
are larger shrubs with lovely red drooping clusters of flowers, practically
flowering all the year round, though it is never quite covered in blooms.

Grevillea aquifolium and G. ilicifolia, are often hard to distinguish,
both occur in various forms from semi prostrate to upright 6-8' bushes,
often with very decorative foliage and nice, red “toothbrush” flowers.

Grevillea lavandulacea is well known as a garden plant with short
grey leaves and brilliant pink to red flowers, suitable for a well drained
warm position. It grows 3-4’ high and is probably the showiest of our
Grevilleas, a well grown plant in full flower is a sight to behold.

Grevillea lanigera is a similar plant, more consistent in its form with
grey short leaves and pink and white flowers, 2-3’ high and spreading.

Grevillea miqueliana is another very decorative, bushy plant, 3-6’ high
with oval green leaves and clusters of drooping brick red blooms, bzing an
alpine, it also prefers a cool site.

Grevillea alpina is probably the most variable species of all Grevilleas,
from semi prostrate to 5-6’ high with variable mostly soft green, sometimes
leathery, small leaves and equally variable flowers from almost pure white
to white/pale green, white/pink, white/orange, wholly apricot, yellow/red,
all red, etc. It's adaptable and does very well under garden conditions.

Grevillea confertifolia is a spreading shrub with needle-like dark green
leaves and raspberry shaped and coloured flowers. It responds to pruning
very well and is very showy when properly grown. There is also a compact
form with slightly paler flowers.

Grevillea parviflora, a small dainty shrub with tiny pinkish/white
flowers and dark narrow leaves, often flowers 2-3 times a year in garden
conditions. It looks attractive, resembling a white veil amongst other bushes.

Grevillea chrysophaea, the Golden Grevillea. is a very handsome
smaller shrub, 3-4’ with clusters of fairly large golden yellow flowers, the
leaves resembling alpina.

Grevillea polybractea is a laraer shrub with neatly arranged clusters
of terminal crimson flowers, leaves like alpina, but twice as long.

Grevillea oleoides or G. dimorpha, is a very good winter flowering
plant with rich red blooms along the stem in leaf axils, flowers from late
autumn till spring, leaves vary from broad to almost needle-shaved.

(Continued on page 188)



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Page 170—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—LABIATAE * Sept., 1971

MINT BUSHES

GROWING MINT BUSHES IN MELBOURNE by %oss Macdonald

The purple flowers of Prostanthera ovalifolia have made mint bushes
well known to Australian gardeners. It is one of the most beautiful of our
spring shrubs. .

Prostantheras like to be well drained, and like some summer watering
until they are established. They are understorey shrubs, appreciating the
dappled shade of eucalypts. Prune them after flowering, or better still,
pick the flowers for indoors. You will then also be able to enjoy the fragrance
of the leaves. Pruning gives increased hardiness and more compact new
growth, so prune most species by up to one-third.

There are two main groups of Prostanthera. Those mentioned below
all are doing well in Melbourne gardens.

Section 1.—Euprostanthera, with a short broad flower tube, a short
upper lip and a wider longer lower lip containing a spreading
middle petal. The calyx has 2 unequal lips.

Section 2.—Klanderia, with incurved floral tube dilated upwards, an
erect concave upper lip, a shorter lower lip, and equal calyx lips.

The EUPROSTANTHERA section is the largest and contains over 60 species.

Prostanthera ovalifolia is the most commonly grown and forms the
well known dense bushes covered with purple flowers in spring. The pink
flowered form is less robust, but a most dainty shrub.

Prostanthera lasianthos is our Victorian Christmas Bush and forms a
small tree of white flowers, spotted purple. lts trunk is slender, occupying
little garden room and it should be much more widely grown.

Prostanthera melissifolia, 6 feet, from the hills, had wider bluntly
serrated leaves with mauve, pink or white flowers. It will flower quite well
in the shade of eucalypts.

Prostanthera rotundifolia, 8 feet, is a hardy species with purple flowers.
There is an attractive form with larger greyer leaves and larger flowers,
and the variety ‘rosea’ growing to six feet with clear pink blooms.

Prostanthera sieberi, 5 feet, has mauve flowers, and likes a cooler site.

Prostanthera violacea is a favourite with most delicate small leaves
and violet flowers. It grows to 3 feet and prefers shade.

Prostanthera incana, 5 feet, has lavender or white flowers and hairy
leaves. It forms a compact bush.

Prostanthera stricta, 4 feet, has erect growth with deep violet flowers.
It responds to pruning and should be tried more often.

Prostanthera hirtula, 5 feet. The variety angustifolia from the Grampians
has mauve flowers. Natural crossing of this with P. lasianthos has produced
some beautiful pinky-mauve offsprings which are being propagated at present.

Prostanthera denticulata is a little shrub with a variety of purple
shades, a pink form from Stawell, and a rare white variety from the Whipstick.
The N.S.W. form has layer leaves, and there is a prostrate type which forms
a dense mat under Melbourne conditions.

Prostanthera rhombea, 4 feet, has heart-shaped leaves and needs
summer moisture.

Prostanthera spinosa, 2 feet, has short spines and delicate mauve
flowers throughout the summer. A good plant among rocks.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—LABIATAE Page 171—Vol. ©

Prostanthera cuneata, 3 feet, comes from the high country and flowers
in spring with white to mauve flowers.

Prostanthera linearis, 5 feet, flowers mauve or white, prefers some
shade and water.

Prostanthera phylicifolia, 4 feet, likes similar conditions. The flowers
have a most appealing fragrance and | am sure will become very popular.

Prostanthera detussata, 3 feet, is a Victorian shrub with purple
flowers, from the McAlister Range and Brisbane Ranges. A pink form is in
cultivation and both do well.

Prostanthera baxteri, 4 feet, with grey leaves and white or mauve
flowers, likes sun and will tolerate lime.

Prostanthera nivea, 6 feet, grows easily. White flowers in summer.

Prostanthera nivea induta, 6 feet, is similar, but with pale blue flowers
and a large attractive calyx.

Prostanthera saxicola var. bracteolata (formerly P. debilis) is a shade
lover from the Grampians and forms a neat bush to 3 feet.

Prostanthera striatiflora from the inland will flower well, but tends to
become straggly after a time. The large striped flowers are spectacular.

Prostanthera megacalyx, 2 feet, has beautiful large violet flowers
in summer. It is usually short lived in Melbourne, but strikes readily.

Prostanthera prunelloides, P. caerulea, P. lanceolata, P. incisa, P. rugosa,
P. densa, P. scutellarioides, P. lithospermoides, P. behriana, P. odoratissima,
P. staurophylla are at present under trial.

The Section KLANDERIA are small shrubs, ideal for rockeries.

Prostanthera walteri is the easiest grower. It has dark green leaves
and green striped flowers.

Prostanthera microphylla with red flowers, and P. microphylla var.
aeruginosa with blue-green flowers come from our dry north-west.

Prostanthera calycina from South Australia has orange-red flowers.

Prostanthera aspalathoides is the well known scarlet mint bush.
It will have an odd flower all year, but blooms well throughout spring
and summer. It should be in all gardens. Colour plate on front cover.

Prostanthera chlorantha and P. leichhardtii, both with greenish
flowers are growing well under garden conditions.

Of the hybrids that are available, P. x “Clearview David” is a gem, with
masses of white flowers in late spring. P. x “Ragged Robin” is one of the
Poorinda hybrids, and has P. staurophylla as one parent. It grows to about
8 feet with large pale mauve flowers and attractive deeply indented foliage.

WILGA PARK — ARBORETUM & SANCTUARY

A unique part of the Australian flora is the dry area, mallee country
flora. Our dry outback country is so vast that it is often necessary to travel
many miles to see even a little of this flora. It is now possible to enjoy the
expanse, the barrenness, the unique sand hills and the mallee flora at a
sanctuary two hours drive from Mildura, near Swan Hill, Victoria. Wilga
Park provides an 8 acre walk through arboretum for that pleasant stroll, and a
250 acre drive through sanctuary. Features of Victoria’s desert heathland flora
are 26 species of Acacia, 24 species of Eremophila (Emu Bush) and hundreds
of other native shrub trees, many planted but growing naturally. Refreshments
are available on site.



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Page 172—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Sept., 1971

CULTIVATION OF THE GENUS CHILOGLOTTIS

by David L. Jones

A small genus of seven species all of which occur in Australia, with
two extending to New Zealand. Details of the various species have been
adequately dealt with in a previous issue of Australiaa Plants.

Chiloglottis are a fascinating group of orchids that grow in colonies,
usually in protected situations. These colonies may be dense or loosely
formed depending on the species. All have a pair of ovate-lanceolate leaves
which lie flat on the ground. Their underground system consists of small
bluntly ovate tubers and long fleshy white roots. These roots form new tubers
at the tip. Few plants in the colonies flower and this characteristic continues
in cultivation. The flowers of some species are very long-lived.

I have had experience with five species in cultivation and find three of
them very easy while the remaining two can be grown under special conditions.
Three of the species increase very prolifically while the other are much less
robust. All species flower in cultivation although the proportion of flowering
plants is generally small. At least one species has the excellent quality of
producing flowers at almost any time of the year.

Before potting ensure that the drainage hole is covered and running
free. Use an open compost that will also drain freely and ensure that
some good partially broken down leaf-mould is present. | use a mixture of
1/3 bush loam, 1/3 coarse sand and 1/3 of the mould from under the
Coastal Tea Tree (Leptospermum laevigatum). The loam | have used in the
past has been an acid sand from coastal areas. This is generally poor
and results with Chiloglottis have been unsatisfactory. Three species grow
well in it but flower poorly, the other two don’t tolerate it. | have now
switched to mountain soil and the results are much better. This is a heavy
but well structured loam from mountain areas. It has excellent drainage
and at the same time retains moisture in fine pores.

A couple of species are very sensitive to soil moisture fluctuations and
quickly die down if they dry out while growing. These problems can be
overcome by using mountain soil and plunging the pots to the rim in a bed
of sand and peat moss.

With the three species that build up in numbers quickly | repot annually.
Those that are less robust | leave go for a couple of seasons. | have noticed
that all species respond well to liquid fertilizer although it doesn’t appear
to promote flowering. | have had little trouble with any pests on my plants
but slugs and snails do relish them and aphis attack the flowering stem.
Keep the slugs and snails away with baits and the aphis with a contact
spray of pyrethrum.

Chiloglottis cornuta Hook. f.

This is probably the hardest species in the genus to grow. It comes from
secluded shaded and damp high rainfall forests where conditions are
continually moist and humid. It does not like drying out while above ground
and even while dormant should not get too dry. It does best in a large
pot of mountain soil mixture with the tubers buried deeply and the pot
plunged to the rim. The buds come with the leaves as they appear through
the ground and the flowers are very short lived and most unspectacular.
The species reproduces slowly and can be left for a few seasons without
repotting.



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1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE

Page 173—Vol. 6

photography by A. E. Logan, Wagga, N.S.W.

hree species of Chiloglottis—Left to right: C. gunni, C. prescottiana and C. trapeziformis.



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Page 174—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—ORCHIDACEAE Sept., 1971

Chiloglottis formicifera R. D. FitzG.

This is a vigorous species that is very easy to grow. !t reproduces
rapidly and soon builds up in numbers. Only a small proportion flower but
the flowers are very attractive and long lived. Usually out of a pot of
fifteen to twenty plants four or five will flower. | find it necessary to repot
annually as parts of the pot become overcrowded and roiting can result at the
junction of the two leaves and spread to other plants. The buds are formed
long after the plants have appeared and matured. This species is not fussy
as to drying out while growing, however it does grow better in a mountain
soil mix.

Chiloglottis gunnii Lindl.

This is another species from the cooler high rainfall areas of the state.
It is fairly easy to grow preferring conditions similar to C. cornuta. It is slow
to increase and a shy-flowerer. The buds appear with the leaves as they
break through the soil. As with C. cornuta it does not like drying out while
above ground. The flowers are large and very showy and overall it is a
handsome species. Colour varies from green to reddish-brown.

Chiloglottis reflexa (Labill.) Druce

A widespread species that grows easily and flowers well. It is fairly
fast to increase but not quite as prolific as C. trapeziformis. Some of the
tubers it makes are quite large for the genus—being about ¥2-%" long. Despite
the fact that it is usually a coastal species growing in sandy soil | have
found that it does best in a mountain soil mix. Here the tubers grow large
and healthy and the plants appear more robust. This species has the ability
to produce flowers at any time of the year. The flowers come with the new
plants as they appear through the soil and new tubers apparently have
the ability to shoot while still attached to the old plants. Despite my
statement about it being easy to cultivate the species is very subject to
rotting especially while the young leaves are still unfurling. Apart from
these losses however the species still manages to increase in cultivation.
Chiloglottis trapeziformis R. D. FitzG.

This species is undoubtedly the most vigorous in the genus. It reproduces
prolifically and builds up in numbers very quickly. It doesn’t seem to mind
what mixture it is grown in provided that it is well drained. However | have
found that it flowers best in mountain soil. As with C. formicifera the flowers
appear in the spring long after the plants have matured. My plants are
repotted annually to avoid the rot that invariably starts in crowded clumps.

NATIVES FOR WINDOW BOXES—cont. from pp. 142

In the meantime, others, admiring our small efforts but having much
larger window boxes, asked advice: there G. biternata did extremely well,
cascading down to ground level. It could expand its roots without pushing
the bricks out. We also planted G. fasciculare besides G. lavandulacea,
Lechenaultia biloba and L. formosa in various forms, Dampieras and some of
the smaller Hibbertias.

These window boxes, some of them even facing north are a delight to
their owners.

Just imagine, how a colourful window box just outside the kitchen
work bench creates a welcome diversion as you prepare your meals or
wash up your mess afterwards. Two young boys | know (sitting at the
breakfast table) were often delighted watching through the window the
spine-billed honey-eaters on the Grevillea lavandulacea practically on eye
level.



@@@ 35 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—DILLENIACEAE Page 175—Vol. 6

« HIBBERTIA

CULTIVATION OF HIBBERTIAS by David L. Jones

Hibbertias must be one of the most complicated groups of all for
amateur enthusiasts tg identify. They occur in a bewildering number of species
and each species occurs in a bewildering number of forms, often with more
than one growing together. Very little has been published on them and
many botanists hesitate to put a name to all forms. Nevertheless they are
a very showy group of plants and a worthwhile addition to any garden.
Most are rapid growing with the prominent flower colour being yellow
although some from West Australia are a delightful orange. The flowers
are very delicate only lasting a day or two but are produced in a fantastic
profusion and the plants are rarely without some flowers. They prefer a
sunny well drained position and for best results should be planted close
together in groups. Some species make excellent rockery plants. In general
they are susceptible to wind damage and should be angle staked with
fine sticks. At my garden in Bayswater, Victoria they are also subject to
sudden death usually without any prior warning. The cause | suspect is
root attack by the fungus Phytophthora cinnamonii. This seems to occur
without any real pattern and even plants in well drained situations are
prone. My only remedy at present is to ensure that a stock of new cutting
grown plants is continuously coming on for replacement. Some species
appear more susceptible to attack than others; these include H. sericeq,
H. aurea, H. subvaginata, H. cistiflora and H. fasciculata. H. asterotricha is
very resistant.

Propagation
-Cuttings

Hibbertias are readily propagated from medium wood cuttings of the
previous season’s growth. My cutting frame simply consists of a fruit case
covered with a piece of glass. The cuttings are placed in a 3:1 sand : peat
mixture in 3" plastic tubes and strike in 6 to 8 weeks. The frame is kept
where it only gets morning sun. With some species success is impaired by
the bark tearing as the cuttings are being prepared. Leaves should be
carefully cut off if this is noticed. Notorious here are H. asterotricha and
H. fasciculata. Hormone powder appears to aid the striking.

Unfortunately the growth on plants in the bush is often completely
unsuitable for propagation. In this case a small percentage may be struck
from hardwood or whatever wood is available. These can then be propagated
from as they grow although results from this method are usually disheartening.
The regrowth of Hibbertias after fires is ideal and such material strikes easily.
Small seedlings will often be found in similar circumstances and these
transplant readily to a tube.

Seed

Hibbertias have a small round very hard seed that is extremely difficult
to get to germinate. | have tried the usual methods of abrasion of the
seed coat without any success and can only conclude the blockage is a
complex one involving germination inhibitors. It is hoped to do more work
in this field in the future.

The following are notes on species | have tried.

Hibbertia acicularis—a small stiff compact bush growing to about 2’
high which has very dark green prickly leaves. It does well in an open



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Page 176—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—DILLENIACEAE Sept., 1971

sunny situation and will tolerate long periods of dryness. Flower production
. . . . . . », .

is not as prolific as in some other species but it is still a very desirable
garden plant. \

Hibbertia asterotricha—this species is probably better known as
H. billardieri. 1t is easily one of the best Hibbertias for garden culture as it
forms a tough wiry bush about 18” high and up to 5 'across. These bushes
are extremely dense and if planted in a group the individuals soon intertwine
and support each other. The leaves are small and rough and the tips of new
growths take on a pleasing bronze appearance. The plants are vigorous
and will spread about 4’ in twelve months. Flowers appear at add times
through the summer with a massed display in spring. The flowers are deep
yellow semi-cupped and make a pleasing contrast to the foliage. If planted
behind wire netting against a fence this species will climb and can be
induced to cover quite an area. It is very resistant to the sudden death
complaint described earlier.

i W Wl

Hibbertia fasciculata in the Victorian Grampians—See pp. 178

Hibbertia cistiflora—a little known species that seems to have potential
for garden culture. My plants originated from cuttings taken from Mount
William in the Grampians where the species grows in rock crevices and soaks
at a fair altitude. In the garden it forms a neat bush to 2’ high and about
18" round. The foliage is grey-green and slightly prickly while the new
growth and stems are reddish. The flowers are about %’ across and are
much paler than in other species. They are produced at odd intervals
throughout the year but in spring appear in countless thousands. The results
in my garden indicate that the species prefers a cool, shaded position and
is best planted in groups.

Hibbertia cuneiformis—a spectacular species from W.A. with large
toothed deep green leaves and deep golden flowers about 1%2” across.
The bush is woody and open with a tendency to trail or twine. The flowers
are very large and attractive and borne at odd intervals through the year.
All in all this is a very desirable species for the garden and seems to be
hardy in most well drained positions.



@@@ 37 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—DILLENIACEAE

Colour photography by Frank Hurley Block by courtesy of John Sands Pty. Ltd.

HIBBERTIA AUREA

Hibbertia aurea—an extremely floriferous species from W.A. that seems
very hard to keep going over here. It forms a compact bush about 18"
high and has small rounded leaves about %"
deep golden yellow and borne in an incredible profusion in spring and autumn.
A sheltered position such as one facing east seems to suit it best.

long. The flowers are a



@@@ 38 @@@



Page 178—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—DILLENIACEAE Sept., 1971

Hibbertia dentata—this is possibly the most attractive species in the
whole genus. It is a scandant creeper or climber with large attractively toothed
leaves that are deep red when young and later mature to a bronzy green.
Throughout the year but particularly in the spring and summer large golden
flowers about 12" across contrast pleasantly with the dark foliage. The
species lends itself well for use as a ground cover or a light climber and
grows extremely rapidly but does not get out of hadd. It will do well in
any position but best results are obtained in areas protected from heat
extremes. It will grow very happily in complete shade.

Hibbertia diffusa—another rare and little known species that must
have excellent prospects for garden culture. It forms a neat upright bush
to about 2’ high, much after the manner of H. fasciculata. The leaves
are small and deeply lobed and held close to the stem in an upright manner
giving the plant a rather stiff appearance. The new growth is fleshy and
succulent. Flowers are about 3% across, semi-cupped and a deep golden
yellow. In spring they cover the plant in an absolute profusion. This species
makes an ideal rockery plant preferring a sheltered position.

Hibbertia exutiaces—undoubtedly one of the gems of the Victorian
bush and one of the best plants | know for a hot spot amongst the rocks.
It ranges over most of the goldfields country and must be exceedingly
tasty for it is always heavily browsed by Wallabies, etc. It has a low
wiry spreading habit, growing to about 18" high. It may tend to straggle
but responds well to cutting back. The leaves are very sparse and the
plant turns on a spectacular display in spring.

Hibbertia fasciculata—a common species from a wide variety of
habitats but usually in sandy soil. Response in the garden is variable, as it
is a species very susceptible to the sudden death condition described earlier.
A succession of seedlings or cutting grown plants is necessary in my garden,
as the species does not seem to take kindly to clay soils. The leaves
are short and very dense giving the bush a woolly appearance. Plants grow
to about 15” tall and are at first upright but then the branches flop and
may trail on the ground. Flowers are small, deep golden yellow and are
borne over the summer months following a peak in the spring. In the Grampians
there is a handsome robust form with longer blue green leaves while in the
desert areas of N.W. Victoria they have short leaves scattered up the stem.

Hibbertia linearis—an extremely variable species embracing many
growth and leaf forms. Leaves vary in shape from narrow-linear to
broadly obtuse or obovate and in colour from reddish green to a deep
glaucous green. Growth habits vary from a prostrate creeper to a rigidly
erect bush 5" high. Flowers of all forms are very showy being large open and
a clear yellow colour. In some forms the flowers are followed by reddish
very attractive sepals and bracts. The prostrate and low growing forms are
extremely good plants for the rockery.

Hibbertia procumbens—a completely prostrate species that spreads
and may cover several square feet in area. It has fairly thin deep green
leaves sparsely scattered over the branches. The flowers are borne near
the top of the short upright stems and appear to be jutting out of the soil
itself. The flowers are a golden yellow about %" across and are born
in profusion in the spring. This species makes an excellent rockery plant and
although it will grow in sunny dry spots does best in sheltered areas. It will
also arow in wet situations.

Hibbertia rufa—a fairly common species that seems to have very
little to recommend it for garden culture. It forms a small scrambling
bush very similar to H. asterotricha, but with pale green ovate leaves.



@@@ 39 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—DILLENIACEAE Page 179—Vol. 6

Hibbertia scandens—this is probably the best known species in the
genus. It is a vigorous climbing plant with lanceolate deep green leaves
about two inches long and large showy yellow flowers about the same
diameter. These are borne at odd intervals throughout the year and make
quite a splash of colour. It can be grown either as a climber or as an
excellent ground cover plant and has the advantage that it will grow well
in any position from full shade to full sun. Growth is very rapid and a
single plant can cover an area 8 x 5. It is extremely hardy and is one
of the best climbers for planting under established gums.

Hibbertia sericea—this is another extremely variable species and
has some fine forms for cultivation. All are attractive usually compact plants
varying in height from 2’-4’ with attractive hairy leaves '2-3%" long. Flowers
are borne in clusters on the tips of branchlets usually in a succession over
the summer months and reaching a peak in spring. The branchlet tips are
also crowded with leaves and bracts and give the plants a bunched appear-
ance. Unfortunately this species is very subject to dying suddenly especially if
planted in a hot position. My best plants are in easterly facing areas.

Forms—the local form from close to Melbourne grows about 18” high
and has dark green leaves and bright golden flowers about 3" across.
The Grampians form is probably the best. It forms vigorous rounded bushes
to about 4’ tall with grey very hairy leaves about 34" long. The flowers
are very large for the species being up to 1%" across. Another form from
the Little Desert and northern areas grows about 26" high and has rounded
blue-grey leaves about 2" long that are not very hairy.

Hibbertia stellaris—much has been written about the cultivation of
this lovely species from W.A. In my experience plants sited in hot positions
invariably grow fast into a dense bush about 15” high, flower very poorly
and die suddenly. In W.A. it apparently grows in ephemeral watercourses
where its roots probably tap some underground moisture. Plants | have
growing in a semi-shaded fairly moist position have grown much slower
and have virtually not stopped flowering since planted two years ago.

Hibbertia stricta—another extremely variable species but an ideal
garden plant. It usually forms a straggly twiggy or sprawling shrub from
18”-3" high with narrow-linear leaves scattered sparsely up the stem. Flowers
are produced profusely at odd intervals throughout the year. In the garden
it will tolerate full sun but it likes to clamber uo through other low shrubs.

Forms—the form from close to Melbourne has greyish leaves about 12"
long and grows into a straggly bush about 18” high. A robust form from
the Grampians grows to about 3’ tall and has grey leaves about %" long
and flowers about the same diameter. Pale flowered forms seem fairly common.
The showiest form is from Steiglitz, Victoria. This has bright green glabrous
leaves and red stems. The flowers are a deep golden-yellow.

Hibbertia subvaginata—another attractive species from W.A. that
only grows about 10” tall with an upright growth habit. The base of the
leaf embraces the reddish stem and gives a very attractive pattern to the
plant. Flowers are only %" across but are a deep golden yellow and
cupped. It is an ideal rockery plant preferring a semi shaded position.

Hibbertia virgata—a very handsome species that makes a good
garden plqnt forming an erect bush to about 2' high. It is very good
for growing amongst other plants and will take full sun or semi shade.
The flowers are produced in large numbers and are very showy. The best form
has deep green leaves but a blue-grey form from Little Desert is attractice.



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Page 180—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYRTACEAE Sept., 1971

MELALEUCA
MELALEUCAS IN MELBOURNE by G. H. Mattingley

The genus Melaleuca is of considerable interest to the home gardener
because most of its species are hardy, odaptable and fast growing. Their
habits range from low ground cover to lofty trees and there are many
attractive subjects to be found within the range of dwarf to medium sized
shrubs. Some of the larger species make admirable backgrounds for smaller
plants in the garden, or can be used as screens or windbreaks, while others
have sufficient beauty of form, or texture of bank to serve as specimens.

In some suburbs of Melbourne, notably the City of Nunawading,
Melaleucas have been used successfully for street planting. M. linariifolia
is favoured for more formal treatments in kerbside nature strips.

Melaleucas bear numerous flowers of bottle-brush or pom pom formation
that range in colour from white through various shades of red and purple.
As the common name Honey Myrtle suggests, they are nectar producers and
attract native honey-eating birds into the garden.

Herewith a selection of Melaleucas that do well in Melbourne and can
be recommended for planting elsewhere in Victoria.

Melaleuca squamea
A Melaleuca of the Grampians that grows in wet situations.

DWARF SHRUBS

Melaleuca pulchella. 22" x 4. A beautiful, spreading, much-branched
shrub with short grey-green leaves; covered with mauve, fringed and claw-like
flowers in summer. Requires a moist open position.

Melaleuca tricophylla. 1’ x 2'2'. A small, stiff, spreading shrub with
narrow, grey, very hairy leaves. Flowers are terminal clusters, purple dusted
with gold. Suitable for group planting in full sun in a well-drained position.

Melaleuca violacea. 2’ x 3. A prostrate form, truly described as a
ground-hugging plant. The pale branches closely follow surface contours,
making it a gem for the rockery. Requires a moist, open position. Flowers
violet.



@@@ 41 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYRTACEAE Page 181—Vol. §

MEDIUM-SIZED SHRUBS

Melaleuca decussata. 8’ x &'. Several forms of this Victorian species
are available. The best flowering form is a dense, stiff, many-stemmed
plant with small, grey, narrow, pointed leaves. Another attractive form
has rather sparse, blunt, blue-grey foliage on arching branches. Flowers
are small mauve brushes in late Spring. Hardy and tolerates most soil
conditions, but does best in the open.

Melaleuca hvuegelii. 10’ x 6. A dense shrub with small, pointed,
dark green, stem-clasping, leaves. Flowers in summer; the long cream
brushes carried clear of the foliage. Become straggly unless pruned.

Melaleuca hypericifolia. 7 x 6'. A hardy, strong-growing plant with
an attractive weeping habit. The broad, oval, bronzy-green leaves tend to
obscure the red brushes produced on the branches in spring and summer.

Melaleuca incana. 7' x 5. Soft grey foliage on weeping branches
distinguishes this desirable plant. Flowers are numerous small yellow brushes
in spring. Needs a well drained position, but otherwise hardy.

Melaleuca lateritia. 5 x 4. A bushy shrub with small, light green
leaves on slender branches. Numerous glowing vermillion brushes appear
during summer and autumn. Needs a moist position with plenty of sun.

Melaleuca wilsonii

Melaleuca wilsonii. 4 x 6. A hardy, spreading shrub from N.W.
Victoria with dark green narrow pointed leaves. Long sprays of cerise flowers
adorn the arching branches in spring. A worthy addition to any garden.

TALL SHRUBS

Melaleuca armillaris. 15 x 10". This graceful shrub has small, dark
green leaves on long thin branches. The creamy white brushes appear in
spring. Most suitable for screening unsightly areas or as a background.

Melaleuca linariifolia. 15 x 10’. A handsome small tree with dense,
mid green leaves and a white papery bark. Masses of white, fluffy flowers
hide the foliage in summer. Hardy and adaptable. Grows very large with age.

Melaleuca nesophila. 12° x 10'. Fast growing with dark green, oval
foliage and a profusion of mauve terminal pom pom flowers in summer.



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Page 182—Vol. 6

AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—NURSERYMEN

Sept., 1971

WILGA

PARK

NATIVE TREES ARBORETUM SANCTUARY
8 acres arboretum, 250 acre drive through natural area, featuring the flora of the Victorian
Mallee and Inland Australia.
3 MILES OFF MURRAY VALLEY HIGHWAY ON TURN OFF TO WOARKOOL JUNCTION
44 miles north of Swan Hill

X

ST. ANNE’S NURSERY
56 WARRIEN RD. CROYDON, VIC.

NATIVE PLANTS, LARGE & SMALL
Specialising in Gums

Years of practical experience in

growing mnative plants in specimen

garden
9.30-4.30 p.m. daily—Weekends
& Holidays

Hours:

Nindethana Native Plant
Seeds
By Packet, Ounce or Pound
Large selection. Send for free list.

NINDETHANA

(G W. Althofer)
Box 5, Dripstone, N.S.W.

Clearview Nursery—W. Cane,

Box 19 Maffra,

Victoria. Specialist in developed plants.

KING'S PARK AND BOTANIC
GARDEN, PERTH, W.A.

Current Seed List, 30c. Seed, 30c per

packet. Overseas prices on application.

“Descriptive Catalogue of W.A. Plants’’
by J. S. Beard, $3.15

“The Cultivation of Native Plants’ by
M. W. Livesy, 25c (48 pp., 13
illustrations).

“Wildflowers of the North-west”” by
J. S. Beard, 85c (30 pp. full colour,
70 pictures and map).

King’s Park Booklet, 70c. Wildflowers

of W.A. 70c. All prices post free.

YOUR AUSTRALIAN GARDEN
in Country or City
CONSTRUCTED & MAINTAINED
WITH NATIVE TREES & SHRUBS

Grown in the sun and wind of the
Keilor Plains by

TULLAMARINE PLANT FARM
8 Sharp’s Road, Tullamarine, Vic. 3043
Phone: 338-2893

OPEN WEEKENDS — CLOSED
MONDAYS
Constructions Phone: 306-6268

KENTLYN NATIVE PLANT
NURSERY

Good selection of Native Plants

96C GEORGE’S RIVER ROAD,
KENTLYN, N.S.W.
(via Campbelltown)

SUPPORT YOUR NATIVE
PLANT NURSERYMAN
He has available plants that have

been adapted to garden cultivation. Do
not take plants from the wild.

Phone: Campbelltown 21583
WIN. HERRY’'S “POTTERS’
MANUKA

COTTAGE NURSERY”

IS NOW LOCATED AT
NURSERY

BONNIE VIEW ROAD, CROYDON, VIC.
(Turn left off Maroondah Highway in bet‘éveen “Ki{nberley Receptions” and ‘“Bird and Bottle’"
estaurant)
OVER 500 VARIETIES OF AUSTRALIAN AND N.Z. PLANTS

Open Afternoons (Tues., Thurs.,

Sat.,

Sun., Holidays) or ’phone Croydon 33011

BARKLY NURSERIES
NATIVE PLANT SPECIALISTS
Choose from our growing specimens

269 NEPEAN HIGHWAY, PARKDALE,
VIC. 3194

Phone: 90-2694

WHOLESALE NURSERY (Regd.)
SILVAN ROAD, MONBULK, VIC. 3793

Suppliers of Natives in 2’ Tubes
Mail Order Specialists
Strictly Wholesale Only

Trade Lists printed monthly

DEANE’S

Specialising

ORCHID

in Australian Native Orchids

Please send for descriptive
Nursery open weekends only

157 BEECROFT ROAD, CHELTENHAM, N.S.W. 2119

NURSERY

list. Plants sent anywhere.

BURLEIGH PARK ORCHID NURSERY

Rare Australian & Exotic Orchid Species
2 inch pot seedlings Native Vanda whiteana $1.50; Dend. bifalce, Dend. canaliculatum var
nigrescens, $1.00.

Large range of seedlings of many genera.
5 DeCOURCEY STREET, TOWNSVILLE,

Full lists free
QLD.



@@@ 43 @@@



Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—NURSERYMEN Page 183—Vol. 6

ROCK

PLANT

SUPPLIES

174 CANTERBURY ROAD, BLACKBURN STH. VIC. 3130

PHONE :

878-4165

Australian Native Ground Covers and Dwarf Shrubs
Also all plants for the Rock Garden

Open Mon. to Sat. 9-5

Send Stamp for Native List

FOR SYDNEY’S LARGEST RANGE OF NATIVE PLANTS . . .

ARILARINGA NURSERY

Neich Road (off Cattai Ridge Rd.), Glenorie, N.S.W. Phone: 652-1402

PRESERVATION BY CULTIVATION

FLORALANDS

KARIONG, via GOSFORD, N.S.W.
A large variety of the most popular native plants al nursery.

PHONE: Gosford 21142

P. J. PARRY

AUSTRALIAN NATIVE PLANTS
GOOD SELECTION ADVANCED & SEMI-ADVANCED PLANTS AT

DENOVAN’S NURSERY — 77-8891

188 Marco Avenue,
SORRY NO

Panania, N.S.W.
MAIL ORDERS

BREAKODAY NATIVE PLANT
NURSERY
J. & M. McAllister

41 SWEETLAND RD., BOX HILL, VIC.
PHONE: 88-3868
Established Native Garden Setting

TELOPEA VALLEY NURSERY
6 CUMBERLAND AVE., COLLAROY

also at Mangrove Mountain
Wide range Natives, small to advanced
plants — Regret mo mail orders
PHONE: 98-6256

728-1353
BELFAST RD., MONTROSE, VIC. 3765

Aust ra fl O XY'Q, LA4RGE SELECTION OF GROUND
Nursery

W. R. Elliot — Telephone:

COVERS, SHRUBS AND TREES
OPEN DAILY EXCEPT SUNDAY

Wholesale and Retail
1971 Catalogue—30c posted

ALEXANDER PLANT FARM
(Doug Twaits, Prop.)

2 Winifred Street, ESSENDON, VIC.
Phone: 379-5163
EVERYTHING FOR THE GARDEN
Specialising in Australian Native Plants

Greenbriar Drive-in Nursery
AUSTRALIAN NATIVE PLANTS
Large and Varied Selection

195-7 MOUNTAIN VIEW RD.,
BRIAR HILL, VIC. 3088

Phone: 43-1468 —  Open Weekends

GAWSWORTH NURSERY
(Reg.)
SMEDLEY RD., NTH. RINGWOOD, 3134

NATIVE PLANTS

Open Sunday
Mon. to Fri. 1 pm. to 5 p.m.

Customers please note . . .

This nursery will close down from
September 1971. Good stocks still
available for -clearance.

AMAROO NURSERY
654-1488
Annangreve Rd., Kenthurst, N.S.W.
Closed Wednesday

BELBRA NURSERY
in the Heart of the Grampians

Large Range of Australian
Natives

Inquiries: BOX 12, HALL'S GAP
Catalogue posted 25c for mail orders
to Box 12, Hall’s Gap, Vic. 3381

NARRABEEN NURSERY

74 AUSTRALIAN NATIVES
1444 Pittwater Rd., Narrabeen Nth.
N.S.W. — 913-8289

OPEN EVERY DAY
Specialist in plants for sea coast



@@@ 44 @@@



Page 184—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYOPORACEAE Sept., 1971

EMU BUSH
EREMOPHILA IN NORTHERN VICTORIA by B. V. Curtis
[Mr. Curtis lives at Piambie, about 44 miles north of Swan Hill. He has established

a fine arboretum here and is carrying out a great amount of experimenting with plants to
discover those suitable for this type of country].

The Emu Bush or Eremophila (which means “desert loving”) belongs to
the Myoporaceae family and is found in the drier parts of Australia. Of
approximately one hundred species eleven are recorded in Northern and
Western  Victoria. The Emu Bush can be a small tree, a shrub
or a prostrate plant, the leaves vary in length from three and a half inches
to a quarter of an inch and may be up to half an inch wide. They are
usually flat but some are narrow and needle-like. The flowers are tubular,
usually curved or sometimes flattened, and with five lobes. These are never
regular in size and shape but there are usually two that are the same size.
In species which face upwards the lobes are large; and in those that face
down they are small. Flowers vary in size from one and a half inches down
to half an inch in length and range through the full colour spectrum
including green and also white. Some are spotted.

The fruit is a drupe which may have two or four seeds in a hard
kernel. It is difficult to germinate the seed but most species can be struck
from cuttings.

The following is a general description of the Victorian species with
their localities and virtues as garden plants.

Eremophila longifolia "“Berrigan Emu Bush”. The most common species
in the state, it is usually found on red clay flats or red loam soils; often in
thickets. It is a large shrub but can grow into a small tree; leaves are very
long with flowers large, dull red in colour but often spotted. The fruit
appears like black currants and may form a carpet on the ground under
the bush.

Eremophila bignoniiflora “Bignonia Emu Bush”. Rare in this state found
only on the Murray flood plains below the Darling Junction. Usually o
willow like shrub that can also grow into a small tree, the leaves are long
and wide and the flowers very large, light cream with a purple tinge and
appear in early summer. It is an excellent shrub for a wet situation.

Eremophila cppositifolia "Wee-ooka” (aboriginal). Found on red loamy
clay soils often in belah forest. It occurs only in the far north of the state
and may be found near the Merbein irrigation settlement. It grows to six feet
high with leaves thin and long. The flowers are large and cream with a
red tinge. The calyx is very large and may be mistaken for a flower when
the seed is setting. It is a good garden specimen.

Eremophila polyclada “Twiggy Emu Bush”. Rare in this state but found
on the Murray flood plains below the Darling Junction. It is an open shrub
with sparse foliage; leaves are small and thin. It can grow to ten feet in
height and has a profusion of flowers in early summer. The flowers are large,
white with brown spots. It is very suitable for gardens, especially in wet
situations.

Eremophila glabra “"Dwarf Emu Bush”. There are two main forms. One
is a spreading bush up to five feet high and widely found on loamy soils,
often under big mallee or belah, flowers are medium sized, dull orange to
red. Some showy specimens can be selected for gardens. The other form
is mostly prostrate and is usually found among mallee in the light sand ridges.
It may grow up to three feet across. The leaves are smaller than the other
ferm, hairy, sticky, crowded and a lighter green. The flowers are orange to
lemon in colour, even green.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYOPORACEAE Page 185—Vol. 6

Eremophila maculata "Spotted Emu Bush”. A dense, much branched
shrub up to six feet high which is widely found along the Murray flood
plains. The fruit is large and cork-like, obviously floats down in streams and
is most likely carried by water birds because colonies of the bushes also
occur out in the mallee areas in red clay hollows and flats that become
swampy after heavy tains. The flowers are mostly orange and red, are
relatively large, and spectacular when in large clumps. It grows readily
from cuttings and is an excellent garden shrub which is suitable for hedges.

EREMOPHILA GLABRA

by K. Warnes

“One plant for the whole garden? Never!” yqu say. Perhaps you would
be right, but in Eremophila glabra (R.Br.) Ostenf., we have a species differing
so much in size and habit, so variable in leaf size, shape, colour and texture
and with flowers in every shade of red, orange, yellow and green that it
could certainly constitute a complete section.

The “tar bush” has long been known in cultivation under various names
including Stenochilus glaber R.Br. and Eremophila brownii F.v.M., but the few
cultivated forms give no indication of the complexity of this fascinating
species. My collection currently includes plants from 32 different locations,
which, allowing for environmental changes, covers about 25 forms, many of
which are far superior to those available from nurserymen in this State. Most
of these are South Australian collections ranging from Kangaroo Island in the
south to Kingoonya in the north and from Watson and Yalata in the west
to Winkie (near Berri) in the east. Five distinct forms, including one with
large green flowers, remain in roadside vegetation within ten miles of my
home at Owen, 50 miles north of Adelaide. Others have come from Broken
Hill and Western Australia.

Possibly the most attractive shrub is one from Meekathara, W.A., with
velvety white leaves and contrasting large red flowers. A striking prostrate
form has bright green leaves and vivid yellow flowers. The Gawler Ranges
form grows to 7' high and 8 wide but has only a few large flowers;
near Narridy and again at Palmer it is 5 x 10’ and smothers itself with
blossom, while a form near Gawler covers a bank 30’ x 10’ and has layered
into a dense carpet. On Yorke Peninsula is found a variant with characters
of both E. glabra var. viridiflora (F.v.M. ex Benth.) Black and E. subfloccosa
Benth., but must be included in the glabra complex. Others tend towards
E. hillii Shaw, the magnificient shrub from Ooldea which was only described
in 1968. E. decipiens Ostenf. is another species to have affinities with
E. glabra and in this case the picture is often rather confused.

Results from five years’ experimenting indicate that most forms root
quite readily from medium wood or semi-hardened tips and as | am
successfully growing plants ranging from 7” to 20" rainfall, and from
sandhills to limestone flats, it does not seem fussy regarding soil or rainfall.

Surely here is a species worthy of further collection, cultivation, and
study; a plant which with careful selection and development could become a
common sight in many inland gardens.



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Page 186—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—MYOPORACEAE Sept., 1971

Eremophila sturtii “Turpentine Emu Bush”. An upright shrub of about
five feet high, the leaves are fine and of medium length. Flowers are small
and mauve. The calyx is relatively large and at first glance may look like a
flower at seed set. Though common elsewhere it is rare in Victoria, found only
on red soils near the lower Murray. A lone specimen has been found in
the mid-Murray district at Boundary Bend. v

Eremophila divaricata “Spreading Emu Bush”. An open, often scraggy
shrub up to three feet high, found along the high flood plains of the Murray
and inland rivers. lts leaves are small, sparse, and the short lateral shoots
die back to form hard points which makes the bush spiny. The flowers are
small and mauve, appearing in spring.

Eremophila scoparia "Silvery Emu Bush”. A symmetrical broom-like
shrub with grey foliage and up to four feet high; flowers appear as small
light blue bells throughout the whole year and particularly in spring. It is
found under big mallee in the Rack area of the Sunset country. Two fine
specimens can be seen 68 miles west of Mildura along the highway near the
South Australian border. It is an excellent garden specimen, alone or along
a border.

Eremophila crassifolia "“Thick-leafed Emu Bush”. A low spreading shrub
with very short, thick leaves which are sometimes heart shaped. It is found in
the south west part of the Sunset, north of Linga. The flowers are small and
mauve.

Eremophila gibbifolia “Clubby Emu Bush”. A small upright shrub, the
leaves are stemless and appear more as small warts as they are very small.
The flowers are small, mauve and very profuse in spring. It is found on Mt.
Arapiles in western Victoria and like the previous species it is an interesting
one to have growing, the more so if there are other Emu Bushes in the garden
for purposes of comparison.

PAST ISSUES OF “AUSTRALIAN PLANTS” AVAILABLE

Because of the vast wealth of our flora there is very little repetition of previous information.
VOLUME No. 1, issues 1-12, no longer available bound but issues 1, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 are
available at 45c each, $2.85 incl. postage.

VOLUME No. 2, issues 13-20, all available only fully bound at $6.00 plus 20c postage.
And in this volume is also “A Descnptive Catalogue of Western Australian Plants’

VOLUME No. 3, issues 21-28, all available only fully bound at $6.00 plus 20c postage
including also “Catalogue of Cultivated Australian Native Plants” valued at $3.00.

VOLUME No. 4, issues 29-36, all available only fully bound at $6.00 plus 20c postage,
including ‘“Western Australian Plants for Horticulture—Part 1” valued at $3.00—see below.

VOLUME No. 5, issues 37-44 all available only fully bound at $6.00 plus 20c postage
including ‘‘The Language of Botany’’, a valuable reference to words and terms.
Other Books by the Society

WEST AUSTRALIAN PLANTS FOR HORTICULTURE is the latest book by this Society
available from the editor for $3.00 plus 20c postage. The format of the book generally is
to have simple but adequate descriptions (using simple features that anyone can distinguish)
of three species in one genus with a full colour plate of one of them on the opposite page.
Directions as to cultivation are given for each species.

“West Australian Plants’’—A Descriptive Catalogue (2nd Edition)

This fine book was one of the first produced by the Society and has been so widely
acclaimed and received that a reprint has been necessary. The number of colour plates has
been doubled but the real value of the book even for those who have a copy of the first
edition is that fully revised, it is the only reference ever produced to the flora of W.A.

Available from Editor, 860 Henry Lawson Drive, Picnic Pt., 2213—$3.00 plus 20c postage.

“The Language of Botany’’—A reference to Botany.

Do you know the meaning of the terms used by botanists? This jargon is necessary
to adequately describe the plants. Do you know the various forms of plant life? Do you
know how plants grow? Do you know the meanings of plant names? All this information
is contained in the form of a dictionary with all the words you wish to check arranged
alphabetically in the book ‘‘The Language of Botany’’. The first edition was so well received
that it sold out. The second edition has been completely revised and enlarged and includes
many more sketches. We try to keep the articles in ‘‘Australian Plants”” as simple as
possible and with this book you can understand the more technical articles and identify
the wildflowers in the bush, yourself. The book is so well written and so adequately covers
the language of botany ‘it has been accepted as a standard reference by Universities,
Horticultural Colleges and Schools. Available from the editor for $1.50 plus 15c postage.



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Sept., 1971 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—YOUR SOCIETY Page 187—Vol. 6

THE SOCIETY FOR GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS

‘““AUSTRALIAN PLANTS” IS AUSTRALIA’S NATIONAL PRESERVATION JOURNAL
(A non-profit making venture, produced quarterly, dedicated to preservation by cultivation).

This journal is published by The Publishing Section on behalf of:

SOCIETY FOR
President :
Secretary :

SOCIETY FOR
President :
Secretary :

SOCIETY FOR

President :

Secretary :

SOCIETY FOR
President :
Secretary :

SOCIETY FOR

President: M

Secretary :

SOCIETY FOR
President :
Secretary :

WEST AUSTRALIAN WILDFLOWER SOC.

President :
Secretary:

GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—N.S.W. REGION:
Mr. E. Dungan, 11 Chauvel Close, Wahroonga, N.S.W. 2076.
Mr. John . Frost, 6 Solander Close, Turramurra, N.S.W.

GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—QLD. REGION:
Mr. David Hanger, Seventh Ave., St. Lucia, Brisbane, Qld. 4067.
Mrs. H. R. Park, 755 Sumford Rd., Grovely, Brisbane, Qld. 4054.

GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—SOUTH AUSTRALIAN REGION:
Mr. I. S. Howland, 2 William St., Hawthorn, S.A. 5062.
Mr. C. J. Winn, Coromandel Valley, S.A. 501

GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—TASMANIAN REGION:
Mrs. K. Geeves, Port Huon, Tasmania, 7115.
Mrs. M. Allan, 73A Mt. Stuart Rd., North Hobart, Tasmania,

GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—VICTORIAN REGION:
r. T. J. Blackney, 23 Devon Street, Heidelberg, Vic. 3084.
(Sister) E. R. Bowman, 4 Homebush Crescent, Hawthorn East,

GROWING AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—CANBERRA REGION:
Mr. J. H. Webb, 22 Araba Place, Aranda, A.C.T. 2614.
Mrs. D. Robmson 29 Hawker Street, Torrens A.C.T. 2607.

(Inc.):
2 Wilson Place, Gooseberry Hill,
Oxnam, P.O. Box 64, Nedlands, W.A.

2074.

7000.

Vie. 3123

Mr. Barry Moss,

W.A. 6076.
Mrs. G. A. 6009

Membership is open to any person who wishes to grow Australian native plants.
Contact the Secretary of the Society for your State for information without obligation.

Managing

PUBLISHING SECTION FOR SOCIETIES

Editor: W. H. Payne assisted by P. D. Leak; Treas.: N. Denovan;

Dispatch by R. Birtles, N. Gane, C. Hubner, N. Dent, J. Scaysbrook with famllxes Stencils:

H. Bartholomew. Advertlsmg and Sales Representatlves

MAIL—Address

SUBSCRIPTION—Members :

in each State.

860 Henry Lawson Drive, Picnic Point,
Apply to State Secretary above.

mail to the Editor,

N.S.W. 2213.

NON-MEMBERS: You may receive the next 4 issues direct to your home by forwarding
an annual subscription of $1.20. Overseas subscriptions are 16/- sterling or $2.00 U.S.

PRINTING

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RICKARD ROAD, CHIPPING NORTON, 2170
Telephone: 602-7404

Printing is our business. Our aim is to supply it at the
most reasonable price and to give a courteous and efficient
service. If we can in anyway be of service to you or
your organisation, please contact us and we will be happy
to supply quotations . . . .

602-3126



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Page 188—Vol. 6 AUSTRALIAN PLANTS—VICTORIAN WILDFLOWERS Sept., 1971

VICTORIAN GREVILLEA UNDER GARDEN CONDITIONS—cont. from pp. 169
Grevillea repens, forms a good ground cover with its holly like foliage
and deep red/green or almost maroon flowers.

There are 250 species of Grevillea in Australia and this includes many
of high horticultural value as described in previous lissues. Many are still
under trial.

b i J i L . bR L

Reprinted from ‘‘Shrubs Trees For Australian Gardens’’ by courtesy of Lothian Publishing Co.

Grevillea rosmarinifolia—'"Rosemary Grevillea’

Grevillea rosmarinifolia is very variable. Some forms have given it a bad name.
However there are some very good forms, one having grey-green leaves and pink and white
flowers. Some are so good that they have been given special variety or cross names. A very
hardy and rewarding plant.

Propagation—Grow your own Grevillea

Grevillea may be grown from seed or cuttings without a great deal of
trouble or special facilities. Past issues have described proven methods.

With seed use the same method for most Proteaceae which includes
Waratah, Banksia, Hakea, Isopogon, ctc. Prepare a clean 4 inch pot % full
with a clean coarse sand or a sterile medium. Place the seed on top and
cover with a %" of sand. Cover the pot with a piece of glass and keep in a
sunny place out of the wind. Keep the sand moist and as the seed germinates
slowly raise the glass. Damping off of seedlings is the main problem so
keep in full sun, well ventilated and put a little fungicide in the watering
water.

SURREY BEATTY & SONS, PRINTERS